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02/26/2005 10:27:40 AM · #1 |
| Am I right to assume that the original file needed for verification does not have to stay in the camera, but may be transferred to a HDD until after the challenge? |
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02/26/2005 10:29:59 AM · #2 |
I believe that is correct.
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02/26/2005 10:32:21 AM · #3 |
I asked a similar question in another thread, and got no response:
If you use a file browser/organizer to rotate the original image (the program never asks if you wish to save it) does this corrupt the original file? I've done this in Photoshop elements, and looking at the file, it appears to still be the original file, but I don't know if this would cause a DQ or not.
Would like to know for future reference...
Deb |
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02/26/2005 10:32:32 AM · #4 |
Absolutely. Copy the file using your operating system (e.g. open two windows and drag the files between), don't open it and resaving it using a software application.
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02/26/2005 10:35:43 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by capgal:
I asked a similar question in another thread, and got no response:
If you use a file browser/organizer to rotate the original image (the program never asks if you wish to save it) does this corrupt the original file? I've done this in Photoshop elements, and looking at the file, it appears to still be the original file, but I don't know if this would cause a DQ or not.
Would like to know for future reference...
Deb |
There is no one answer to this that is always correct. Some of these applications do in fact change data in the file header (where the EXIF data is written) and so could cause problems with validation. The safest route is to transfer your originals to the hdd using the operating system. Then copy the files you want to work on to a "working" folder, and only work from those copies. Save your edited version(s) with a different file name, so you are in effect creating a "copy of a copy". Then you've still got an original in the working folder, and the real original in an archive in case you overwrite your "working" copy of the original.
You'll never lose an original this way.
Message edited by author 2005-02-26 10:38:26.
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02/26/2005 10:39:39 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
There is no answer to this that is always correct. Some of these applications do in fact change data in the file header (where the EXIF data is written) and so could cause problems with validation. The safest route is to transfer your originals to the hdd using the operating system. Then copy the files you want to work on to a "working" folder, and only work on those copies. You'll never lose an original this way. |
Thanks for the quick response.
Is there an easy way for me to view the exif data (keeping in mind I'm a total newbie) to determine if it was changed (if so I may need to pull one of my entries and resubmit).
Deb |
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02/26/2005 10:49:14 AM · #7 |
Deb,
a free image viewer may be had at //www.irfanview.com , and it has an exif viewer in it that shows the entire exif file. It also works as a basic image editor (very basic).
Robt.
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02/26/2005 10:51:20 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by bear_music:
Deb,
a free image viewer may be had at //www.irfanview.com , and it has an exif viewer in it that shows the entire exif file. It also works as a basic image editor (very basic).
Robt. |
Thanks, I'll have to check it out when I get home tonight... And perhaps I'll be re-shooting my "light on white", ughhhh...
Deb |
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02/26/2005 05:49:36 PM · #9 |
Okay, I can veiw the exif data, but what exactly do I look at to determine if the file is the true original? Does it have to do with the create/modify dates? Does it matter how you import the files from the camera to your computer? I'm totally confused now....
Any help will be greatly appreciated...
Deb
Message edited by author 2005-02-26 18:08:18. |
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02/26/2005 06:51:09 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by capgal:
Okay, I can veiw the exif data, but what exactly do I look at to determine if the file is the true original? Does it have to do with the create/modify dates? Does it matter how you import the files from the camera to your computer? I'm totally confused now....
Any help will be greatly appreciated...
Deb |
I PM'd you...
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02/26/2005 11:24:33 PM · #11 |
okay, I think I got it everyone, carry on, haha!
Deb |
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02/26/2005 11:31:03 PM · #12 |
What I always do is open the camera original in photoshop and save it right away as a new file (I usually just add a letter to the end of the original file name...if the original is IMG_0034 then I save it as IMG_0034b).
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02/26/2005 11:46:39 PM · #13 |
workflow:
1. download every new card full of information to a new subfolder in a larger folder; mine is "img" for the larger and then NikonView atomatically creates anew, sequentially numbered folder by date in there.
2. in photoshop open the image you want from that folder
3. immediately save-as a psd file in another folder altogether, one that's located within your working folders and has a descriptive name; for example, I am currently using the working folder winter_2004_2005 and the subfolders are like wellfleet, blizzard_jan_05, and so forth
4. the save-as name is descriptive and has the oriignal file number as well, like: Karma_sleeping_dscnxxxx...
5. Do all your work on the psd file; never again touch the original file except if you have to open a new instance of the unaltered image, in which case follow above steps with a new save-as name.
6. Because the original image number is on the altered file, you can always find the original image if you need it for any reason.
Robt.
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