To achieve this effect you need to control the two halves of the double exposure area. From way back there existed a gadget that was like a bellows. This attached to the camera lens and then you pulled and pushed these tabs that allowed one section at a time to be exposed. This was made for film cameras, that is, cameras that can indeed handle a double exposure. This made the pulling and pushing of these tabs clumsy and time consuming. That is, you release the shutter and it closes, now you are free to play with the tabs for the next exposure. This won't do for digital cameras that can not do a true double exposure.
As you know, most digitals do not execute a double exposure. We simply leave the lens open and do our thing. I needed something that would be faster to operate, hence I simply added barn doors to be able to double expose each separete section of the sensor with the flick of a door. Digital cameras are not only suspect to noise but heating of the sensor and something faster was needed. The barn doors are my minor contribution. You leave one open, shoot and then flip the closed door open and close the other. All done in a split second! I had long ago lost this little gadget so I used a plastic container and added hinges for the doors.
This is an image that I have seen no where. Yes, nothing is new and what you are seeing is another application of what can be done with a double exposure. The typical double exposure has one image super imposed on the other. This type is half the sensor exposed indepent of the other.
If we refer to it as a double exposure than it is nothing new. This is an image which would have had more impact prior to Photoshop. It is easier done in advance editing yet it remains a challenge in basic editing. Look at the image carefully and you will see a division line. A minor curve adjustment helps hide the division. In advance editing you can blend it completely.
The set up: A pail with a 1x3 piece of wood across it is placed in the shooting area. You have two similar bottles, one with water and one with wine. We place the glass of wine atop the wood. We also need a lid cover for the glass to be explained shortly. You set up the lighting to your taste. You need strobes because you need to fire them manually.
The shooting: You set the camera with gadget attached and the top barn door open. You set the timer for 10 second exposure, prefocus and use the timer. Place the lid on top of the glass. This will allow the water to spill and not enter the glass. When the countdown arrives you have the water bottle over the glass and you begin to pour at your desired angle. The moment the shutter opens you fire the strobe. Quickly put bottle down, remove lid from glass so wine can enter glass, grab the wine bottle. With other hand, flip open the closed barn door and close the open one. Begin to duplicate the pouring angle and with the other hand fire the strobe. End of story. Here the shutter closes. Check the result for alignment of the stream. If no good, do it again. Concentrate on the angle and intensity of the stream and you will get it before you know it. I do this in darkness while using a 15 watt red bulb aimed at the ground. This gives you enough light to see clearly.
This was the same principle used in my, "Split Bout" entry in the masters. Here is the box as it was used for "Split Bout "

Message edited by author 2005-01-26 07:57:30. |