One more Photoshop question from a newbie.....

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

01/12/2005 09:32:17 PM · #1

At the zoo today, here's one of the orangs people watching. I used my Canon 20D with a Tamron 28-300 lens. I am including my camera's EXIF info. Please look at the EXIF and photo and give possible reasons for the contrast of the original pic. Second look at the PS'd photo and grade how well I did (remember I'm a rookie at this editing stuff). Thanks so much. Here goes..........

Original photo:

Photoshopped photo:

EXIF:
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/13
Av( Aperture Value )
6.3
Metering Mode
Evaluative Metering
Autoexposure Bracketing
+2/3
ISO Speed
800
Lens
28.0 - 300.0 mm
Focal Length
300.0 mm
Image Size
3504x2336
Image Quality
Fine
Flash
Off
White Balance Mode
Auto
AF Mode
AI Focus AF
Parameters Settings
Contrast Mid. High
Sharpness Mid. High
Color saturation Mid. High
Color tone 0
Color Space
sRGB
Noise Reduction
Off
File Size
3200 KB
Custom Function
C.Fn:01-0
C.Fn:02-1
C.Fn:03-0
C.Fn:04-0
C.Fn:05-0
C.Fn:06-0
C.Fn:07-0
C.Fn:08-1
C.Fn:09-3
C.Fn:10-0
C.Fn:11-0
C.Fn:12-0
C.Fn:13-0
C.Fn:14-0
C.Fn:15-0
C.Fn:16-0
C.Fn:17-2
C.Fn:18-0

faidoi

Pentax K10D

01/12/2005 09:34:35 PM · #2

ISO 800 is the culprit. IS0 100 would've probably given the results you were after. Remember to change it back after taking night shots.

Message edited by author 2005-01-12 21:36:28.

gaurawa

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

01/12/2005 09:35:57 PM · #3

don't shoot at ISO 800
since that's already said, may be change color space to Adobe RGB which is better for printing.

Message edited by author 2005-01-12 21:36:45.

moodville

Nikon D100

01/12/2005 10:16:11 PM · #4

Was this indoors? At a guess I would say it was the +2/3 EV. 1/13 at ISO 800 is gonna mean a very long shutter at ISO 100.

You may want to burn the background on your photoshopped image or else crop it to remove the background. The light areas tend to draw the eye some.

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

01/12/2005 10:33:51 PM · #5

Thanks for the responses so far.

Originally posted by moodville:

Was this indoors? At a guess I would say it was the +2/3 EV. 1/13 at ISO 800 is gonna mean a very long shutter at ISO 100.

This was shot outside from a sunny spot into a shady spot zoomed out to 300mm. The EV was +2/3 because I was bracketing, and this was the best of the 3 shots taken. Metering from the camera was giving me some crazy values, so I started bracketing. I used a tripod, but I was underwhelmed with several of today's shots.

dacrazyrn

Nikon D300

01/12/2005 10:41:37 PM · #6

All I have to say is RAW

Message edited by author 2005-01-12 22:43:22.

gaurawa

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

01/12/2005 10:47:04 PM · #7

Originally posted by Sailingduck:

This was shot outside from a sunny spot into a shady spot zoomed out to 300mm.

Were you using the lens hood? if you are in a sunny spot, you need to take care of unwanted light on your lens. sunlight falling on the lens front from an angle can give a hazy look to the photo.

Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II

01/12/2005 11:27:37 PM · #8

Originally posted by gaurawa:

Originally posted by Sailingduck:

This was shot outside from a sunny spot into a shady spot zoomed out to 300mm.

Were you using the lens hood? if you are in a sunny spot, you need to take care of unwanted light on your lens. sunlight falling on the lens front from an angle can give a hazy look to the photo.

No, I wasn't using a lens hood. Hmmmmm, I hadn't thought of that one.

HornOUBet

Panasonic Lumix G 25mm f/1.7 ASPH

01/12/2005 11:38:18 PM · #9

I am a newbie too, so maybe I am wrong, but If it was sunny and you wanted to expose a shady spot, I would suggest also getting a couple of shots using spot metering, being careful to point the spot at the area you wanted correctly exposed??? Correct me if I am wrong, please....

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

01/12/2005 11:46:31 PM · #10

Looks like lens flare causing loss of contrast, to me. Photo seems fairly backlit, or at least against a much brighter BG, so you're shooting into the light, lens hood is a necessity on the long glass in this situation, and if you're directly into the light even that won't help. Seems overexposed too, and I see it's +2/3; why do you say this is the "best" one? Can we see the others?

I don't think iso 800 is the real problem. The slower the better as far as noise goes, but this isn't a noise issue. I have shot 800 often in low light and never had a problem I couldn't live with.

Robt.

Message edited by author 2005-01-12 23:50:36.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

01/13/2005 01:52:43 AM · #11

Whatever metering mode used here will tend to wash out the subject since the tonality is darker than 18% grey which is what the meter is trying to render. The face is probably about 2/3 to 1 stop darker than medium whereas the fur is probably about 1/2 a stop darker than medium.

If metering off the face underexpose from what the meter tells you by about 2/3 of a stop. If metering off the fur then underexpose by about 1/2 a stop.

By considering the tonality in relation to medium (18% grey) you can get the exposure right.