| Author | Thread |
|
|
12/11/2004 12:31:58 AM · #1 |
Hello all:
I am new to the forum and just minutes ago, bought a Canon EOS 20D from B & H. I have my eyes on a 70-200mm f/4L telephoto lens and saw a link for a Tripod Mount Ring for this particular lens. As it is about $270, I was wondering if any of you could tell me if it is absolutely necessary to get if I purchase the lens.
And while I am at it, any feelings on the 420EX Speedlite TTL flash ? I spoke with a professional photographer at a recent 49ers game and he was not high on it. But I also have received postive feedback from others on it. I am also looking to do alot of sports photography, some at night, and was wondering if any of you could kindly steer me in the right direction ?
One more thing: Do I really need a EF 1.4x II Extender if I get the 70-200mm f/4L ? I am totally clueless about this, so does it just extend the power of the lens 1.4 times ? If so, does that make a noticable difference ?
Thanks, so much for the advice.
Cappy |
|
|
|
12/11/2004 12:53:21 AM · #2 |
tripod ring....dont need it. spend that money on an actual nice tripod if u can. night sports...what kind? f/4 might not be as hot for shootin night sports unless u have good lighting set up. u might need flashes and slaves. thats what im saving up for, to shoot skateboarding at night. 1.4 extender makes the lens 1.4 times longer but also makes it a slower aperture. thats bout the extent of my knowledge...hope it helps!
|
|
|
|
12/11/2004 12:53:51 AM · #3 |
I have a 70-200 F4L, the 1.4x extender and a 420EX. I don't have the tripod ring, and unless you're planning on doing a lot of tripod-mounted shots on a relatively bad tripod forget the ring. It's the same one for the 200 2.8 II, and that one is cheaper (but black). I've never really needed it. It's a light lens.
The 420EX is good but your 20D has E-TTL II which would work best with the new 580EX. Might as well take advantage of that.
The 1.4x extender is useful in daylight. Necessary? Only you can decide. If you don't have enough reach with the 70-200 then yeah it's needed. I think it's great. I can't tell the difference optically with it on and with it off. It does reduce max. aperture by 1 stop (max. with it on is f/5.6) and it's longer so you need a lot of light to stay over the 1/effective focal length rule for shutter speed. I usually use it for rowing where there's typically a lot of light anyways.
|
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:11:27 AM · #4 |
Petrakka & jimmythefish"
I want to do alot of football and soccer shots, both day and night. What are your thoughts on a mono-pod ? I see alot of photographers on the sidelines with them, but they also have some humongous lenses. Do you think a mono-pod is a good thing for the 70-200 ? Necessary ?
What exactly does the tripod ring do anyway ?
The 580X is 3 times as expensive as the 420, is it worth it ?
Ok, please explain the whole aperture thing. Does slower mean the camera has to stay stationary or the image gets fuzzy ? Or does it effect the light that is let in ?
I am kind of putting the cart before the horse and buying the gear before I really know how to use it. Stupid, probably, but I can't help myself.
Thanks, guys.
Cappy |
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:16:25 AM · #5 |
I just picked up the DRebel, and here are my (uniquely unqualified) opinions on your questions:
1. monopod: If you plan on using a shutter speed under 1/350th of a second, some support will be useful.
2. tripod ring: no clue...
3. 580ex: I hear it's much better.
4. aperture: the aperture is a measure of how much light is let through the lens. A bigger number is a smaller aperture (it's a divisor). Generally (to a point) a smaller aperture is sharper, but darker, thus necessitating a greater amount of light or a slower shutter speed.
In general, check out Photoworkshop.com, the DRebel section has a lot os info about stuff like that. |
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:19:44 AM · #6 |
thanks, vontom.
Hey, how about a battery grip ? What does that do ?
Thanks,
Cappy |
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:22:17 AM · #7 |
| the battery grip does two things. 1. it holds two batteries, ergo, twice the "juice". Also, it squares the shape of the camera and adds a second shuuter button and all those buttons, so you can shoot in portrait orientation easier. |
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:27:24 AM · #8 |
sweet. Just added it to "my cart"
I am now wondering if I should have purchased the 3 year extended ( through MACK )warranty for $130 ? |
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:39:21 AM · #9 |
football at nite....yeah u really should look at the 2.8 70-200 ( i know its a lot more though...or maybe even a 200 prime lens....or get the 70/200 w/ image stabilization. it will make your lens 'faster.' a 'fast' lens is considered an aperture 2.8 or lower. this means it can let more light in. the lower the number, the wider the aperture. with a 2.8 lens u can use a faster shutter speed under the same light u might have to use a slower shutter speed with (increasing the likelihood of a blurry image) with an f/4.
it would be a good idea to really read up more on all the gear and the options that u have, and a lot of basic photography knowledge...once you really understand how aperture and related things work, stuff will start to make a lot more sense. if you're gonna spend that kind of money to start, make sure you are paying for the right things. You might buy some great equipment, but if it's not suited to your purpose, then it might not be worth it.
|
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:43:01 AM · #10 |
Yeah, uh, a lotta that going around. If you're mainly doing night shots and can't afford the 2.8 version of the Canon, consider the Sigma 70-200 2.8. It's a little more expensive than the F4L but you get an extra stop.
The smaller the f-stop (eg f/2.8) the larger the aperture and amount of light that the lens catches. An f/2.8 maximum aperture lens lets in 1 stop more light than an f/4 maximum aperture lens. That means the same exposure at a faster shutter speed for the f/2.8 lens. It's only one stop, though, and your 20D has very good low light capabilities. Still, if you're planning night shots you'll be pushing the limits all the time and should get a 'fast' lens (fast meaning f/2.8 or larger max. aperture).
A monopod is perhaps a good idea, though sports guys usually use it because their lenses are heavy. The F4L is pretty light. The monopod won't stop action but it will help prevent camera shake.
THe tripod ring centers the weight of the camera and lens over the centre of gravity, so it's more stable and much easier to switch from portrait to landscape orientation as the lens swivels in the ring.
Originally posted by cappy27:
I am kind of putting the cart before the horse and buying the gear before I really know how to use it. Stupid, probably, but I can't help myself.
Thanks, guys.
Cappy |
|
|
|
|
12/11/2004 01:54:29 AM · #11 |
"What exactly does the tripod ring do anyway?"
The purpose of the ring is to place the mount closer to the front, hopefully at the center of gravity of the camera and lens. A cheap tripod with a heavy unbalanced lens will drop forward (usually when you don't want it to.)
You don't want to set up your tripod and camera then after waiting for the right action to get a great shot, then discover that the camera has slowly moved down and your subject is near the top or out of view.
I was considering a ring (the black one that jimmythefish mentioned) but have not bought one yet.
I have the Canon 70-200 F4L Lens and I use the Tamron (cheaper) 1.4X lens from time to time. It's better with a tripod.
I too recommend a good solid tripod, that your going to want soon anyway, like a Bogen. Then see if you need the ring to keep the camera stable.
|
|
|
|
12/11/2004 02:12:26 AM · #12 |
Thanks, to all of you, for the great tips.
The 2.8 70-200 is $1500....oooofa :)
cappy |
|
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 07/19/2025 08:55:53 AM EDT.
