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11/28/2004 08:42:13 PM · #1 |
Hello!
I'm trying to get the hang of, well not exactly low light situations, but dusk type things. I'm trying to get an idea of what settings to use(or if something like this has to be composited with multiple shots).
Anyway the problem I'm trying to address, I had a nice view to practice on this evening across a open field with the setting sun behind some clouds. This was around 4PM, so still plenty of light, but because of the facing into the sun, the sky comes out ok, but the ground is underexposed.
Sorry I don't know what the proper posting protocol is as far as inlining images yet. Here's an example:
//www.jasoncoleman.name/images/dpc/dusk.jpg
So what can I do/what is the approach to deal with this kind of situation?
Thanks!
Message edited by ClubJuggle - Changed large image to link. |
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11/28/2004 08:57:37 PM · #2 |
I assume what you are trying to accomplish is having both the sky and the ground well-exposed. Unfortunately, for this photograph you will not be able to get that effect straight out of camera without some additional processing and/or equipment. A typical camera can handle about 5 stops of range (light to dark) in one image -- a shot like this goes well beyond that.
One way to get around this is to use a graduated neutral-density filter. A neutral-density filter basically acts like sunglasses for your camera. A graduated ND goes from clear at one end to dark at the other. You would orient the filter with the dark end at the top -- this would shade the sky and allow for a more even exposure.
Another option is what is called bracketing. When you bracket a photograph, you take the same photograph two or more times while holding all but one setting constant -- in this case, shutter speed. One photograph would be taken to expose the sky properly, the second to expose the ground properly. You would then combine the two in your image-editing software to produce your final image. Please note, however, that you should not use this method for challenge entries, as combining multiple images is illegal under both the basic and advanced editing rules.
As to your question about inline images... we generally request that any large images be posted as thumbnails (there are instructions on this in the tutorials section) or as links to the image (using the globe icon rather than the image icon)... I'll go ahead and change this for you.
-Terry
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11/28/2004 09:03:06 PM · #3 |
| I was told to try getting the expo settings off of an 18% gray card. But you'll probably need a graduated ND filter for something so contrasting. |
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11/28/2004 09:06:29 PM · #4 |
Like Terry said, shooting with the sun in the frame is going to give way to broad a range of light for the camera to handle. However, if what you are wanting to shoot does not have to have the actual ball of fire in it, but rather just the effect it is having on the sky as it vanishes around the horizon, just wait until it actually goes down. Just after it goes below the horizon, the area will generally lighten up a bit as the rays of the sun come up from under the atmosphere rather than above it. At this time, the dynamic range from sky to ground is usually within the range of a camera. This is the time most 'night' shots are taken -- enough light to take an image, but low range of light so the whole image can be darkened at once.
But if you are wanting the light source in the frame bracketing is likely the best option.
David
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11/28/2004 09:30:40 PM · #5 |
Ok thanks! Sorry about the post, I'll read up all the tutorials before I do any more dumb things. :)
So regarding the ND, I think I see what you are saying. So the idea here is to try and get a more uniform light level across the scene? Compositing being the other option(yeah I figured it'd be illegal for entries but I'm still 'fraid to submit yet) :)
Thanks!
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11/28/2004 10:38:04 PM · #6 |
Your example looks like the exposure was pretty short. If you can set up for an exposure of a second or longer, there's a neat trick you can use. Set up your cam (on a tripod) so that the sky is overexposed by 1-2 stops and your exposure is at least one second, preferrably two. Now put your hand in front of the lens so that the edge of your hand meets the horizon. Hold it close to the lens so it's quite blurred. Trip the shutter, and midway through the exposure, move your hand up out of the frame.
Experiment with different variations of the technique, such as how fast you move your hand. You can get some beautiful results this way, and the best part is, they are all DPC legal, since they are done in-camera.
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