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09/18/2004 12:32:55 PM · #1 |
I have been asked to take pictures at the Marine Corps Ball this year and I need some help with lighting. Here's the thread that explains my opportunity Big Scary Opportunity.... Anyway, I am debating how to do the lighting... maybe debating isn't the proper wording, more like I don't have a clue how to do the lighting. I already have one soft box and I was planning on getting another and just use them. Like this diagram...
However, I saw this on e-bay and was wondering if this would be better to get STUDIO LIGHTING KIT . I figure I can use these lights in conjunction with my softbox and have a pretty decent lighting setup.
Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated. If I'm way off please feel free to call me an idiot and set me straight. |
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09/19/2004 08:33:31 PM · #2 |
Hi-ho,
Can't offer any specific advise for that lighting kit, although it looks like a great buy at that price..
In a more generic sense:
I'd be asking the supplier what your expected exposure settings would be with their setup, and lights placed 2-3m away from your subjects/models.
You really want to be getting 1/100th or faster, and probably F/5.6 or better with a 300D to avoid camera shake and OOF issues.
This wouldn't be a problem with a model posing as you can take your time, but I assume you've got quite a few people to get through in a short period of time?
With your diagram, I'd be placing the softboxes/lights out more to the side, nearer 80 degrees difference, as with them closer to the camera you're going to be bumping into the stands, and you may have shadow issues..
If you're going to use all three lights (hairlight as well?) you may need to have the front light on the side the hairlight is on slightly further away or more diffuse to have the hairlight show up. Dead center hairlights can look a little too 'staged' so it's nicer to have it off to one side a bit. In your diagram that would be on the right, as hairlights need to point at the subjects hair, if they stand facing the other way it just shows us how shiny peoples foreheads can be! Not attractive.
Also, if it's a Marine Corps Ball, are they going to be wearing dress Uniforms? ie: hats on? If so you'll have shadow problems from the brim of the hats.. You'll need to light to compensate for it, with at least one of your key/front lights at or below eye height, so it'll need to be off-center so you're not kicking it all the time...
And last (but not least) if you're going to use an existing softbox with those lights I'd be careful of heat. Soft light is one thing, but I imgine the Marine Corps Ball organisers didn't request any photos of a campfire with the portraits!
OK, a few more points. Get your lights at least a couple of weeks early, and test, test, test, test. Take spare batteries, or better yet an AC adaptor for your camera. A laptop to save files to or 10Gb of CF cards. Shoot in raw so you can fix colour temp. issues. Even so, use manual white balance off a white/grey card, and update it a few times during the evening as hot lights may shift colour temp during the evening if ambeint temperature changes. Let the lights warm up for a while before taking the first white balance setting.
As always, just my 2c worth... :-).
Keep us posted on how you get on, and good luck!
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09/19/2004 08:48:18 PM · #3 |
The diagram you came up with looks about right. For a quick and easy shoot, having two lights setup at 45 degree angles and a backdrop works quite well.
I didn't look too much at those lights, but you probably want to be able to control the intensity so you can have one main light and a fill light. That, or if you have enough space where you are shooting to be able to pull a light back a fair amount.
If this is going to be a one time thing, then I'd recommend a continuous lighting setup. Keep in mind that you'll usually have to whitebalance differently for these lights and using a softbox may be problematic (if you have the lights on for more than 10 minutes or so the softboxes will turn into small ovens and could catch fire or melt); you also need to consider how your models will feel, especially for longer shoots.
If you plan to use studio lighting pretty often after this, you should consider spending some more cash on strobes. When looking for strobes, I really wouldn't recommend anything under 800 wattseconds; Alienbees make nice, affordable strobes.
Another option would be to check your yellowpages listings or stop by yoru local camera shop and see if they have loaner equipment. I know a store in my area offers loaner cameras, lighting, backdrops, and other equipment for pretty decent prices. |
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09/19/2004 08:58:42 PM · #4 |
| The studio lighting kit from ebay will not allow fast camera settings. Strobes would be better...if you can afford it. |
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