PS Discussion: Dodge and Burn - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II

10/12/2013 06:07:24 PM · #1

Wondering if I could stimulate a Photoshop discussion here. I know there are many ways to skin the proverbial cat, so I was wondering if folks could chime in with their preferred method of doing Dodge and Burn.

So far, I've come across a few already:

1. Obviously, using the in-built Dodge and Burn tools
2. I know some folks use new layer filled with 50% grey and paint (mask) those on using different blend modes for dodging and burning, respectively
3. Using duplicate copies of the image, one for dodge and one for burn. And for each of those, make adjustments to Curves/Levels and then brush those into the original as needed.

I like 2/3 the nicest, as I feel I have a lot of control over exactly how much D&B I do.

Anyone use these or other methods and care to mention why they prefer that particular method?

Message edited by author 2013-10-12 18:20:21.

pamb

Canon EOS-5D Mark III

10/12/2013 06:18:25 PM · #2

Yes.

:p

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

10/12/2013 06:25:15 PM · #3

I tend to do my dodge/burn these days, even on a color image, by opening Nik Silver Efex Pro and using those very sophisticated local contrast tools and control points. I then set the resultant layer to luminance mode and the color stays intact.

Regarding option 2 below, if you set the new, empty layer as "overlay" or "soft light" and set the fill to 50% gray (as you mentioned) then you can burn and dodge on the same layer by painting black and white respectively. Or you can open TWO new, empty layers, one set to "multiply" with white fill and the other set to "screen" with black fill and do your effects separately.

The advantage of using the actual dodge & burn tools is that you can specify whether they are working on highlights, midtones, or shadows, which can make life a lot easier in a complex environment. But I usually only use them for touchup on already-resized images that need tweaking.

Message edited by author 2013-10-12 18:26:08.

Yo_Spiff

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

Olympus 12-100mm f/4.0 M.Zuiko ED IS PRO

10/12/2013 06:30:25 PM · #4

How about #4?
Duplicate layer, darken background layer using curves, then mask through where needed. Usually I use about a 50% hardness on my brush edges, but as I go smaller on brush size, I need to use a lower number to keep the edges of the brush soft and realistic looking. I use this method when needing to darken broad areas, such as trees in the background.

For subtle uses such as fine facial features, I use the traditional dodge & burn with a soft edge and only about a 3% opacity. Anything much more does not give a realistic appearance and you can tell dodge/burn has been used.

Some of my terms may be slightly different from the rest of you, as i use PaintShop Pro.

10/12/2013 06:30:41 PM · #5

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Thanks Robt! I do use the luminance layer a fair deal for overall image look, never considered it as a D&B tool.

Regarding the second option, I always thought of using two 50% layers (screen and multiply), I quite like the idea of just one layer and switching quickly between white and black with "X"

I've had mixed results with the actual D&B tool...especially if it's an area of the image where there's a lot of mixed lighting and shading. Not always sure what the computer will decide is a highlight or midtone, so I find myself constantly cycling through them to get the result I want, which is inefficient.

Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L IS

10/12/2013 06:31:48 PM · #6

Originally posted by Yo_Spiff:

Pretty much what I was referring to in #3, but you did a better job of describing the method.

Message edited by author 2013-10-12 18:32:14.

Tiny

Apple iPad mini 4

10/13/2013 04:11:39 AM · #7

I use the 3/4 method I find it easier that the tools in PS.

kirbic

Canon EOS R5

10/14/2013 02:38:17 PM · #8

Normally, I use the method of doing curves adjustment on a duplicate layer and blending it in as needed. The one *huge* benefit of this method is that it is non-destructive, and the second big benefit is you can use global adjustment (by adjusting opacity) as well as local.
I don't often have to do this anymore, because I do most of my adjustments in Lr, including applying "gradient ND" and local exposure adjustments.