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10/08/2013 11:37:43 AM · #26 |
Originally posted by Garry:
Thanks Fritz.
Can you help me here. If I start with a 100mm lens with 1:1 ratio and add a 12mm or 20mm or 36mm extension tube, how do I calculate what the resultant magnification would be? |
All formulae are really approximations, because modern macro lenses don't always behave as you'd expect. For instance, the FL of the Canon 100/2.8 Macro is actually less than 100mm at minimum focus. Now, that said, here's an approximation that will get you close:
Mtot = M1 + E/FL
In the above equation, Mtot is the total magnification. M1 is the magnification without the extension tube. E is the extension tube length, and Fl is the focal length of the lens.
So for the 100mm macro and a 36mm tube, you'd get 1+(36/100) = 1.36. The actual magnification you'd get probably would be a little higher, because the focal length of the 100mm macro is short of 100mm @ 1:1, more like 90mm.
ETA:
What the above tells you is that extension tubes are more effective with shorter FL lenses. There's a limit to the utility of this observation, though. In some cases, the minimum focus distance becomes so short that the focus point is actually inside the front element! This is true for the 15mm fisheye, for instance, even with a short (12mm) extension tube. I also have an old (1960s) 35mm macro lens that goes to 1.8:1, but the focus point is about 0.15 inches from the front element, so lighting a subject becomes pretty much impossible.
Message edited by author 2013-10-08 11:43:09.
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10/08/2013 12:16:26 PM · #27 |
| Thank you Fritz, very informative! |
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10/08/2013 03:00:59 PM · #28 |
Not as good as a lot of the stuff posted on here but I recently purchased a macro lens (Canon 100 f2.8L IS) and having a lot of fun with it.. I have found that `out in the field` its actually a pretty tough style of photography. I might be tempted to get some extension tubes at some point.
The thing you have to remember is that you need to crop in quite tightly to get some of these real close up shots.
Some of my macro stuff on Flickr.
Message edited by author 2013-10-08 15:01:52. |
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10/08/2013 03:42:03 PM · #29 |
Excellent stuff, Mark. Are you using a ring flash for those? Or side flashes? The use of light really sets them apart.
I haven't had much luck with it. I've only had moderate success with the extension tubes while using a tripod and live view. The DoF is too narrow and the exposure is far too long. The whole point is insane detail, so you can't be nearly perfect, you have to be exactly perfect.
And as mentioned, heavy cropping. A bad craftsman pretending to be a good craftsman never blames his tools, but I do think the 12mp of the D700 sets me back in this field. |
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10/08/2013 03:44:53 PM · #30 |
| That's good stuff, Mark. I enjoy seeing bug macros that DON'T fetishize over immense DOF and stunning clarity of detail; these are very emotive and work stunningly well, IMO. |
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10/08/2013 03:46:49 PM · #31 |
Very nice, Mark!! Really beautiful works. Echo Bohemia's question regarding your light setup. Would be great if you could fill us in.
Message edited by author 2013-10-08 15:47:48. |
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10/08/2013 04:05:12 PM · #32 |
I got a close-up lens attachments (the wrong model as it turns out), but it gets in pretty close ΓΆ€” this is uncrepped. 
In "SuperMacro" mode my built-in lens will focus on something touching the lens ...  |
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10/08/2013 06:22:21 PM · #33 |
Originally posted by Garry:
Very nice, Mark!! Really beautiful works. Echo Bohemia's question regarding your light setup. Would be great if you could fill us in. |
No lighting setup at all - just using available/natural light in most cases - IS helps out a bit, but you need a really steady hand, lots of patience and a lot of space on your memory card - one takes a LOT of images to get a few keepers. |
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10/08/2013 06:33:13 PM · #34 |
Originally posted by Simms:
Originally posted by Garry:
Very nice, Mark!! Really beautiful works. Echo Bohemia's question regarding your light setup. Would be great if you could fill us in. |
No lighting setup at all - just using available/natural light in most cases - IS helps out a bit, but you need a really steady hand, lots of patience and a lot of space on your memory card - one takes a LOT of images to get a few keepers. |
Haven't done much macro myself, but I can SO relate to that! |
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10/08/2013 06:41:37 PM · #35 |
And one of my personal faves..a great example to me of the kind of macro I would like to do.
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10/08/2013 07:28:22 PM · #36 |
My cheap lens has been doing the job well for me
Sigma 70-300
 
but I've been thinking of upgrading to the 100mm as well. The sigma has macro at 200-300 and I'm worried I'll miss the range although I just found an image I took with the kit lens so I guess anything's possible even with the minimum equipment?
Canon 17-55
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10/09/2013 02:27:24 PM · #37 |
Regarding the jumping spiders- some of those will be do-able with a standard macro lens and nothing else, but the majority are smaller than that or heavily cropped. Keep in mind jumping spiders are very difficult subjects as they are fast moving and skittish.
A 100mm or longer macro lens will work wonderfully for most insects, you'll just need to get good at approaching them. The shorter ones start to get harder to work with unless you're dealing with non-flying insects.
With extension tubes, a 50mm 1.8 works decently well for macro, but you have a short shooting distance- 
I strongly agree with learning some light stuff. You'll find you will really need to crank the living hell out of ISO or have prohibitively slow shutter. I shoot much of my macro hand held, so keeping shutter at sync speed is a must, but even if you don't shoot handheld, you'll want light. My typical setup is an sb900 on a ttl cord that is shot through an Orbis ringflash adapter. I prefer the Orbis because I can use it on or off axis as needed. If I'm shooting flying insects, I use this to keep recycle and duration fast
I'd also suggest you check out LordV on Flickr. He talks about his setup and how to do things-
Equipment/DIY
General Primer from him
I don't have a ton of macro work up here, but if you have any questions on my shots or generally, ask away. |
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10/09/2013 04:51:53 PM · #38 |
For us Canonites, the expensive, but very flexible way to light macros is with the MT-24EX. It does a fabulous job, but it is a really expensive flash unit. Where it blows a ring flash away is the ability to adjust the positions of the light sources around the circumference of the lens, and also to program in a set ratio so you can get more dramatic lighting and maintain fill in shadows.
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10/09/2013 04:58:19 PM · #39 |
| Afraid to say I will be a one-flash kind of guy. Now I just need to find a way to mount the flash to the camera so I don't have to hand hold it. |
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10/09/2013 05:13:33 PM · #40 |
Here's an easy solution.
Lumiquest Softbox III
Works out that this will just clear the end of your flash when mounted on body.
It's big enough that the light doesn't seem harsh, and really works pretty well if you don't want to get crazy about this stuff, while maintaining usability and easy transportation. |
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10/09/2013 05:30:28 PM · #41 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
For us Canonites, the expensive, but very flexible way to light macros is with the MT-24EX. It does a fabulous job, but it is a really expensive flash unit. Where it blows a ring flash away is the ability to adjust the positions of the light sources around the circumference of the lens, and also to program in a set ratio so you can get more dramatic lighting and maintain fill in shadows. |
Just to throw it out there, you can get a sheet of ND Rosco and put it on an Orbis for a cheap alternative. You can also just tilt the orbis to change the subject to light distance and still shoot through the middle of it. Given the size of your subject, you'd be surprised at the flexibility.
Am I saying this works as well as a dedicated macro flash system for control? No, especially because dedicated macro rings like Fritz mentions have variable tilt which changes the angle they strike at, as well.
For Nikon users, there is the R1 (or R1C1 if you need a commander), which can accommodate additional R200 units if you want to add them.
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10/09/2013 05:36:26 PM · #42 |
Originally posted by Cory:
Here's an easy solution.
Lumiquest Softbox III
Works out that this will just clear the end of your flash when mounted on body.
It's big enough that the light doesn't seem harsh, and really works pretty well if you don't want to get crazy about this stuff, while maintaining usability and easy transportation. |
Agree. I've got an LTP that works great too but is not as hand holdable as the SBIII. The LTP is larger, so it works better for portraits etc, but is a bit awkward to handhold on a ttl cord (you can use it on camera as well like the SBIII but just barely. |
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10/09/2013 05:43:55 PM · #43 |
One more big tip for shooting small things. :)
Forget everything you know about focusing.
Use the focus ring to set the desired magnification, then focus by moving in or out. |
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10/09/2013 07:32:21 PM · #44 |
Originally posted by Cory:
One more big tip for shooting small things. :)
Forget everything you know about focusing.
Use the focus ring to set the desired magnification, then focus by moving in or out. |
Words to live by. |
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10/09/2013 09:59:39 PM · #45 |
Originally posted by Cory:
One more big tip for shooting small things. :)
Forget everything you know about focusing.
Use the focus ring to set the desired magnification, then focus by moving in or out. |
+1.
If you're after bugs, go for the 150mm. You'll appreciate the distance...
I do a lot with my 90mm with a 50mm reversed. You have to be right on top of whatever you're shooting and distortion becomes a factor. Seen here: 
As for light, this works great and is really cheap 
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12/06/2013 02:27:11 AM · #46 |
Hi
I am coming into this discussion late ... as always :-(.
At a recent photo expo they had a "led ring light" for macro photography. It was a LOT cheaper than a flash. The sales guy said it is obviously not as powerful as a flash, but he said it gives good results.
Basically it looks like a ring flash, i.e fits around the lens in the front, but is just a light (full ring, about 1" wide (maybe wider, I am not sure anymore)).
has anybody seen or preferably used this before and have any comments?
Thanks
Gaby |
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12/06/2013 02:53:24 AM · #47 |
Originally posted by kasaba:
Hi
I am coming into this discussion late ... as always :-(.
At a recent photo expo they had a "led ring light" for macro photography. It was a LOT cheaper than a flash. The sales guy said it is obviously not as powerful as a flash, but he said it gives good results.
Basically it looks like a ring flash, i.e fits around the lens in the front, but is just a light (full ring, about 1" wide (maybe wider, I am not sure anymore)).
has anybody seen or preferably used this before and have any comments?
Thanks
Gaby |
The problem with LED ring lights is power. This isn't to say that they don't have their places, but honestly with macro the reason your'e wanting light is that you're trying to gain DoF... AKA stopping down to F11 ish. They often don't have the power to do this. To compound things, if you enjoy shooting handheld, the issue is exacerbated due to lack of power. IMO, the most versatile macro light there is is the Orbis adapter. It requires you have an off camera flash, which adds to the cost, but it it's versatility is where it wins. You can use it on camera, off camera, whatever, and with a TTL cord you don't even need to worry about power settings.
Now, if you don't have a flash at all yet, this might be a different question, but if you have a flash it's pretty much the best option if you ask me. |
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12/06/2013 03:11:41 AM · #48 |
| I have used cheap round led lights, they do work just fine for macro photography. I always had on f 1.8 with my old 50mm lens and light was actually very nice, gave me very good results... Also used with zoom macro lenses, still works pretty good. They are very cheap around 30-40 bucks at Amazon. I even had a few portraits with it. I do reccomend those. |
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12/06/2013 03:24:01 AM · #49 |
Originally posted by FocusPoint:
I have used cheap round led lights, they do work just fine for macro photography. I always had on f 1.8 with my old 50mm lens and light was actually very nice, gave me very good results... Also used with zoom macro lenses, still works pretty good. They are very cheap around 30-40 bucks at Amazon. I even had a few portraits with it. I do reccomend those. |
What aperture were you shooting at generally? |
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12/06/2013 04:34:17 AM · #50 |
100 mm Macro by Canon and reversed Wide open 50 mm.
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