Photography in Central park NY - DPChallenge Forums

08/07/2013 01:28:16 PM · #1

I am covering a sweet sixteen pre-photo shoot in Central Park NY.

Two questions:

1. What all are good areas with-in the park I should look for? Any photograph that you have may help me!
2. Do I need to take permission from the park department?

08/07/2013 01:32:45 PM · #2

Shoots aren't allowed on the weekends, and there's a permitting process you'll need to follow.

//www.centralparknyc.org/visit/general-info/filming-photography/filming-photo-app.html

Or, you could do what I'd do and just guerrilla it.

From their website:

In order to film or photograph in Central Park, you must first request approval from Central Park Operations using our online form. Once you receive approval from Central Park Operations you can then submit the appropriate application with the Mayor's Office of Film, Theatre and Broadcasting (MOFTB) who will issue an official permit.

Message edited by author 2013-08-07 13:33:48.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

08/07/2013 01:46:54 PM · #3

Originally posted by Cory:

But I am not doing anything for filming or any big event, still need to take permission? Also I tried to look on website to see if photo shoot is not permitted on weekend and didn't see any information.

tanguera

Nikon D750

08/07/2013 01:47:48 PM · #4

What does that mean, "covering a pre-photo shoot"???? Are you doing bts of someone else's shoot? Is this location scouting and you'll be returning to shoot the shoot another time??

If it's someone else's shoot, let them worry about it. If it's yours, go guerrilla. The park is so huge and full of people.... Unless you're bringing a huge crew and tons of equipment, you should be fine.

As for where, that depends entirely upon what sort of images your clients are expecting. If they want water, there are numerous places to choose from. Also bridges, wooded paths.... Get a map of the park and take a day or two to walk through it. Only you can decide what "looks good" for your purposes. Even if you search on Flickr, you won't know exactly where the images were taken.

08/07/2013 01:53:48 PM · #5

Originally posted by tanguera:

It is my own shoot. Sweet sixteen is in October and in a hotel, this is to have some pre-shots to create digital album to run during the event in hotel. The pre-shots would be from central park, time square, skyline etc.

I would be carrying my camera backpack having lens, camera, flashes, tripod, and umbrella but not lot of stuff meaning not too much stuff to make sure not showing up in the crowd :)

08/07/2013 02:11:40 PM · #6

If I can recommend?

Get a gaffer, lose the tripods and light stands.

A VAL is your best tool in these sorts of situations. Setup a tripod and you can bet someone will be on your ass about 200% faster. Setup a light stand with a modifier on it, and that should go up to about 800% faster.

ETA: To clarify - gaffer is a person who is responsible for taking care of your lights (specifically the head electrician/lighting guy for bigger productions, but in this use, it means "guy who can operate a speedlight effectively") & a VAL is a term that David Hobby (Strobist) uses to refer to a person who is tasked with holding a boom with your light and modifier on it, or a "Voice Activated Lightstand".

Message edited by author 2013-08-07 14:38:47.

08/07/2013 02:14:16 PM · #7

By the way, for exploring I think you'll find Google's new street view maps of Central Park will help.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

08/07/2013 02:51:21 PM · #8

Originally posted by Cory:

By the way, for exploring I think you'll find Google's new street view maps of Central Park will help.

Thanks Cory and Johanna! This would definitely help!

tanguera

Nikon D750

08/07/2013 02:54:42 PM · #9

No problem. Just remember that if you take a gaffer and a VAL, you are just as visible as with a tripod. If you select your locations carefully, you should be ok with just a reflector. Maybe have one person to help you with that.

08/07/2013 03:20:40 PM · #10

One more question!

I am trying to reduce the stuff that I want to carry :)

I have Gary Fong dome with diffuser like this to use as second light source.

Would you suggest to take umbrella/reflector too?

08/07/2013 03:28:16 PM · #11

Originally posted by pgirish007:

I agree with the idea to use the speedlight as a second light source, and here's why - Tanguera is totally right about the reflector being a better idea from the stealth perspective.

But there's even more to it than that, because the measure of how 'diffuse' a light source is depends on the relationship of sizes between lit surface and subject being lit, a reflector is going to provide much better light than anything less than a huge studio light, because it is not only large in terms of surface area, but it is quite bright in fact, and can actually hold it's own against a bright sky (try that with a single speedlight!)

That Fong diffuser is small as hell in relationship to a human sized subject, and while it will help a little, it's still pretty much useless. A 30+ inch umbrella or softbox is a minimum, or at the VERY least a 12" beauty dish, if you're trying to use it as a keylight (main source of illumination)...

But, that doesn't mean it's actually useless - I'd use the speedlight on the camera, and I'd keep that Fong on there because it'll produce good results- here's what I'd do after thinking about this a bit more-

A reflector has the advantage of being a much larger source, and gives much better quality of light than a speed light will, so I'd use this as my main source of controlled light, it's amazing how well this works on even modestly lit days.

Now, I'd put that speedlight on your camera for the specular highlight in the eyes (catchlight), but keep it turned down to a reasonable level so that it's not acting as the key light, and only fills shadows a little bit. Taking off the diffuser will give you a smaller and brighter catchlight with harder falloff, so I'd keep the diffuser on and turn up the speedlight by two or three stops, which will give a brighter and bigger catchlight while illuminating the shadows on the subject less than the bare light would at a couple of stops lower power.

Hope all that makes sense, and good luck on your shoot! It'd be cool if you could share a few of your best here!

Message edited by author 2013-08-07 15:29:58.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

08/07/2013 03:37:13 PM · #12

Originally posted by Cory:

Originally posted by pgirish007:
One more question!

I am trying to reduce the stuff that I want to carry :)

I have Gary Fong dome with diffuser like this to use as second light source.

Would you suggest to take umbrella/reflector too?

I agree with the idea to use the speedlight as a second light source, and here's why - Tanguera is totally right about the reflector being a better idea from the stealth perspective.

But there's even more to it than that, because the measure of how 'diffuse' a light source is depends on the relationship of sizes between lit surface and subject being lit, a reflector is going to provide much better light than anything less than a huge studio light, because it is not only large in terms of surface area, but it is quite bright in fact, and can actually hold it's own against a bright sky (try that with a single speedlight!)

That Fong diffuser is small as hell in relationship to a human sized subject, and while it will help a little, it's still pretty much useless. A 30+ inch umbrella or softbox is a minimum, or at the VERY least a 12" beauty dish, if you're trying to use it as a keylight (main source of illumination)...

But, that doesn't mean it's actually useless - I'd use the speedlight on the camera, and I'd keep that Fong on there because it'll produce good results- here's what I'd do after thinking about this a bit more-

A reflector has the advantage of being a much larger source, and gives much better quality of light than a speed light will, so I'd use this as my main source of controlled light, it's amazing how well this works on even modestly lit days.

Now, I'd put that speedlight on your camera for the specular highlight in the eyes (catchlight), but keep it turned down to a reasonable level so that it's not acting as the key light, and only fills shadows a little bit. Taking off the diffuser will give you a smaller and brighter catchlight with harder falloff, so I'd keep the diffuser on and turn up the speedlight by two or three stops, which will give a brighter and bigger catchlight while illuminating the shadows on the subject less than the bare light would at a couple of stops lower power.

Hope all that makes sense, and good luck on your shoot! It'd be cool if you could share a few of your best here!

Yes you are right and it does make sense to me!

IAmEliKatz

Nikon D5

08/07/2013 03:45:09 PM · #13

I've been under the impression that as long as no tripod's or other equipment touch the ground - you don't need a permit.

Simply hold your gear and you'll be fine.

Message edited by author 2013-08-07 15:45:35.

08/07/2013 04:12:25 PM · #14

Originally posted by IAmEliKatz:

I've been under the impression that as long as no tripod's or other equipment touch the ground - you don't need a permit.

Simply hold your gear and you'll be fine.

Then I should be ok with the timeline that I have!