D 70 settings - DPChallenge Forums

09/01/2004 08:13:52 PM · #1

I am wondering if any of you D70 folks could give me some specific settings to try to take pictures of the moon. Is it a waste of time with the kit lens or will it be enough to get a decent shot. I took some with me old Olympus 2100UZ that were not great but decent but with my D70 I can't even get decent? Any help at all would be appreciated.

cghubbell

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

09/01/2004 08:15:00 PM · #2

Forget settings... You're going to need a really BIG telephoto. That moon is a long way from here.

09/01/2004 08:19:35 PM · #3

I am not talking about a close up :) fill the frame shot.... just a nice one with clouds and blackness/blueness around it.... just for fun.

cghubbell

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

09/01/2004 08:37:06 PM · #4

Waste with the kit lens? C'mon now! The kit lens on a D70 is incredible by just about any standard (unless you've got an 18-70 f/2!). It's hard to say the problem without seeing the image. Can you post one of the "outtakes"?

If I had to guess, I'd imagine that matrix metering would probably do a good job of rendering the moon. Matrix usually does a good job on sunsets, and I would think the moon would be similar. You could also flip into manual mode... I'd guess the full moon would spot meter around +1 stops depending on how cloudy it was, but would have to use the histogram to be sure. Any image manipulation I'd do outside the camera, so I'd probably leave the setting as-is.

Could be color balance, lack of a tripod, even the conditions that night. Atmospheric conditions can do some pretty annoying things in some cases - check out some astronomy sites for more information on that.

09/01/2004 08:56:21 PM · #5

I did not save any outtakes because they were not good enough. I have been using a tripod since I first started coming to DP challenge. It was the first thing I learned. Although it seems to be hit and miss (some shots I didn't use a tripod scored better than when I did. I get comments sometimes that I should have used a tripod when I did use one. But I digress!)

I zoomed all that I could with my lense. (I used to have a 10x optical zoom on my old camera) Anyway on automatic the camera would not fire (take the shot) so I put it on manual and tried + and minus a bit each way. I know I am probably doing something silly wrong but even though I like having the D70 I am not getting as good results as I used to for some things. Other things I seem to be doing ok.

I had the camera set on M and switched to manual on the front and used a tripod. Is there anything goofy I am forgetting? Remember, the moon comes out late when my mind is tired from teaching all day. I teach remdial for a reason... I often need remedial help! If anyone can help I will be very pleased.

Message edited by author 2004-09-01 20:57:18.

cghubbell

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

09/01/2004 09:05:16 PM · #6

Originally posted by WildflowerJoy:

You can still blur an image using a tripod. Unless I'm shooting an active subject I set my self-timer to 2-5 seconds and let the camera trip its own shutter. Makes a real difference. Best thing is to use the remote, but I have been having a lot of trouble finding a place that has 'em in stock for a D70. The other question is what kind of a tripod do you have? The tripod I first brought home wasn't enough to support the D70 with a 300mm lens (but I liked the price). Ended up trading it for a Bogen/Manfrotto + Ball head. It's tough to say this without sounding like a gear-snob, but the tripod needs to be expensive to be good if you have a dSLR.

If the camera wouldn't fire it probably couldn't grab a focus point. Just flip the side lever on the lens to "M" (shouldn't need to use manual exposure unless you want to) and use the focusing ring. Make sure your diopter is set ahead of time (do this indoors in good light). You should be able to get a crisp focus manually.

Was the image problem with blurring, bad color, overexposure? Just trying to understand what the issue is...

dacrazyrn

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

09/01/2004 09:12:28 PM · #7

I think you should try spot metering the moon, then exposure locking it. Aperture priority should work well with this. You can try aperture, see what the setting is...to bright or dark then adjust your shutter speed in manual.
Read alot that state that 1/125 is usually a good starting point for the moon.

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

09/01/2004 09:19:16 PM · #8

Here is the moon with my 28-200 f/4.5 lens (I don't have the kit lens):

.
(I resized down, but it's the full image.) It will not blow your socks off.

This is another one that I cropped down to make as impressive as I could:

This is the (resized) full image taken with my telescope attached to the D70, somewhere around 2200mm (x1.5 crop factor). It was not a good night, the cat kept hitting the tripod, clouds were coming in, sun was not down yet, etc. etc. - once I get everything figured out I think it will turn out better.

So - with the kit lens, you are going up to 70mm (I think?) so the size of your moon image isn't going to be very big, but you should still get a good shot. Even if your tripod is perfectly still, remember that the Earth and Moon are still moving so you need to keep your shutter speed not too slow.

The annoying thing about the D70 in this situation is that there is no mirror lock up - you can lock it up to clean but the shutter will not fire. You can try putting some extra weight on the camera in addition to using the timer (some bean bags or a bag of unpopped popcorn).

09/01/2004 09:22:48 PM · #9

The problem was not really blurring but probably overexposure.... what is and it seemed so small in the frame. I was used to it being bigger before...but you know what I think I just had a thought. I have the camera set on the largest picture size and I did not try cropping to a normal size for a photo..... would that make a difference? ( I know duh!) I know I am always so surprised when I crop out over half to two thirds of the frame and the photo and it is still big enough to print well.... maybe I just did not give it a chance. I just saw how small it was on the preview and deleted it thinking it would be too small to work with.

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

09/01/2004 09:26:21 PM · #10

The moon is being lit by direct sunlight so your shutter speeds will tend to be fast. My non-telescope shots are at f/5.6 and 1/125 second or so.

And definately give the crop a try! 6 MP captures a lot of detail that a full-screen monitor won't show.

Message edited by author 2004-09-01 21:27:29.

09/01/2004 09:32:34 PM · #11

Originally posted by dacrazyrn:

Just when I think I know something ... things change. I had the words spot metering on my old camera but now I have single, dynamic and closest. Is single the same as spot metering? I am not sure what exposure locking is.... I have it set on the L ( which is what I think you are talking aboutib tge right of the viewing screen) but I am not sure why or if this is best most of the time or just some of the time.... is this the setting you are talking about?

09/01/2004 09:35:36 PM · #12

So - with the kit lens, you are going up to 70mm (I think?) so the size of your moon image isn't going to be very big, but you should still get a good shot. Even if your tripod is perfectly still, remember that the Earth and Moon are still moving so you need to keep your shutter speed not too slow.

How much is too slow... how much too fast?

The annoying thing about the D70 in this situation is that there is no mirror lock up - you can lock it up to clean but the shutter will not fire. You can try putting some extra weight on the camera in addition to using the timer (some bean bags or a bag of unpopped popcorn).
[/quote]

What difference does that make to the shot?

I think your shots are great!

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

09/01/2004 09:36:49 PM · #13

Originally posted by WildflowerJoy:

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

09/01/2004 09:42:21 PM · #14

Originally posted by WildflowerJoy:

How much is too slow... how much too fast?

Start around 1/125. A couple stops on either side of that is all I would try.

Originally posted by WildflowerJoy:

Originally posted by JoeBok:

You can try putting some extra weight on the camera in addition to using the timer (some bean bags or a bag of unpopped popcorn).

What difference does that make to the shot?

The extra weight will help to dampen out the vibrations caused by the mirror going up and down. For the moon this is usually not much of a problem as your shutter speeds will generally be fast enough so that it won't matter.

Originally posted by WildflowerJoy:

I think your shots are great!

Thanks!!

09/01/2004 09:42:54 PM · #15

Originally posted by joebok:

Thanks for the help... I will give that a try. quick question... why not a larger f setting and adjust the shutter .... would you get photos with more detail if you did? Is there a way to know what f stop is best for each situation? I can't seem to understand the principles involved. On my old camera I memorized what settings different photo were taken in that people liked and scored well...then used the same setting for other photos in the same situation. Not the best way probably but it worked until now. My worst ratings have come recently with the new camera. I got better ones with my old camera.

And about tripods... I don't mind the expense.... of a heavy one but I can't carry a heavy one..... muscle and back spasms due to nerve damage following surgery. Is there one that is lightweight....very light weight but sturdy?

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

09/01/2004 09:48:57 PM · #16

Originally posted by WildflowerJoy:

... why not a larger f setting and adjust the shutter .... would you get photos with more detail if you did? Is there a way to know what f stop is best for each situation?

And about tripods... I don't mind the expense.... of a heavy one but I can't carry a heavy one..... muscle and back spasms due to nerve damage following surgery. Is there one that is lightweight....very light weight but sturdy?

At 200m, 5.6 is the biggest aperture I have on that lens - if you can go bigger, do it! If you increase the aperture by a stop, then crank up the shutter speed by a stop. (i.e. if you go from f/5.6 and 1/125 then for f/5 you would use 1/160, then f/4.5 and 1/200, etc.)

I don't have a good idea on the tripod - mine is a monster!

09/01/2004 10:17:11 PM · #17

I think "single, dynamic, and closer" are focus modes. The metering is the icon that has a dot in the center and 4 blobs around it - like on the button on the top by the on off switch (the on on the left). Hold that button down and turn one of the dials - you'll see a similar icon in the LCD change - make it so there is just a dot at the center.

When I hold the button down by the on and off switch ( to the left) nothing happens!!!! When I hold down the button with the same icon on the back by the viewer... (with ISO) over it nothting changes inside .... I will get out the manual and see if I can make sense out of it now...

The exposure lock is the button labeled "AE-L AF-L" and how it works depends on custom settings - you'll have to check the manual for details. [/quote]

OK... I did read about this once.... I willl give that a try too.....

09/01/2004 10:22:06 PM · #18

Thanks everyone... I have to go do homework.... teachers have tons to do at night to prepare for the next day.... I will try to read the manual again...now maybe a bit more will make sense. I am sure I will have lots more questions..... thanks for taking the time to help me.....

Mary

dacrazyrn