The terminology of "Haze", "UV" and "Skylight" filters is definitely confusing! I'm certainly no expert, so take all of the following with a grain of salt. It is just my understanding, and would welcome any additions, clarifications, corrections, etc.
First, a Skyight 1A or 1B is a slight warming filter (it doesn't have clear glass) and is intended to prevent a blue cast when photographing a subject that is in shadow, and illuminated by a blue sky on a sunny day. If used at other times it will likely create a slight magenta cast in the highlights of a picture illuminated by flash or sunlight.
A UV(0) filter is clear, and is intended to take out "haze" by blocking some of the UV light (some UV is still passed). A UV(0) filter does not affect the color balance.
For a filter that says "L-39 Sharp Cut", L-39 means "ultraviolet, 390nm wavelength" and "Sharp Cut" means that wavelengths shorter than 390nm are "cut off", while wavelengths longer than 390nm are transmitted, with a sharp transition between the two. (This is roughly equivalent to the common "UV Protector" or "UV(0)" filter, since light shorter than 400nm is considered UV.)
A haze filter typically blocks a higher amount of UV (50-75%) than a UV filter (20%). Some brands (like Tiffen) have Haze filters in multiple levels: A Haze 1 reduces excessive blue haze caused by UV light by absorbing 71% of UV (transmitting 29%). A Haze 2 absorbs all of the UV light rays (transmitting 0%).
For reference, I use Hoya Super HMC Pro-1 UV(0) filters on all my lenses, but primarily to 1) protect the front element of my lenses and 2) make them weather sealed where applicable (Canon's weather-sealed lenses need a front filter for full weather-sealing). UV haze is only really noticeable at higher altitudes or on really overcast days. (Pollution, fog, smog, etc. is not the kind of haze these filters remove!)
BTW, see this post: Not all UV filters created equal. More expensive filters generally are coated, and are therefore much better at dealing with flare.
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