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DPChallenge Forums >> Photography Discussion >> Long exposures of stars
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10/19/2012 11:10:25 AM · #1
Hey guys,

I've just taken a look at the winning picture of the Long Exposure V challenge, a deserved winner IMO.

I was wondering if anyone could answer a question on the technique...

When you're setting your shutter speeds so long, how do you ensure that the foreground etc aren't just completly whited out?

Al
10/19/2012 11:26:17 AM · #2
Usually the foreground is pretty dark as well and it isn't a problem. If it looks lit up it has probably been painted with a flashlight for a few seconds out of the total exposure.
10/19/2012 11:27:22 AM · #3
The more the shutter stays open, the less it influences the exposure.

If you take a look at this image (30 minutes exposure) it's only slightly different from another one I took a few minutes afterwards using 20 minutes exposure.



In any case you should take the shot where you can have complete darkness and avoid light pollution.
10/19/2012 12:13:02 PM · #4
If you are going to shoot longer than 30 sec, shooting on a night without the moon adding light allows the ambient starlight to light the landscape.
If the moon is out and bright, then the landscape will be overexposed before you can get good star trails by shooting with shutter speeds longer than 10 minutes or so.
On a dark but starlit night, try shooting about 2 to 3 minutes, at f4 or 5.6, iso 200 to 400.
Experiment, and be aware that the image viewed on location in the LCD will appear to be a lot brighter than it will appear on the computer screen, because your eyes will be adjusted to the ambient light. It is very easy to greatly underexpose and not know it until you get it on the big screen. One way to avoid that is to use the histogram, and another is to have a correctly exposed daylight shot on the card for a reference, so that you can compare brightness of a well exposed image to the ones you are shooting while out on location.
If you want concentric trails around a point, you have to line up your camera so that the North Star, or Southern Cross is in the image. If you want vertical trails, point the camera east or west when shooting.
10/19/2012 12:34:26 PM · #5
If it's a moonless night, the foreground should not be a problem. If anything, I've wanted the foreground to be illuminated more than with the starlight. A little bit of moon can be helpful. I never wish for light pollution from the populated areas. I sure recommend using your most wide open aperture and use DOFmaster to set your manual hyperfocal distance so your scene is in focus from foreground elements to infinity. Electronic noise is minimized at your slowest native ISO speed. For Canon, that is ISO 100. The only problem I've had is the wind, but a stabilized tripod will minimize wind chatter.

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