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08/03/2012 06:16:21 AM · #1 |
so i am finally getting the solar panel put on my house. The contractors are building a new roof over my deck to hold more shingles.
but what was left out was placing rooking materials on the new structure. so i need to do it myself.
im handy enough i know how a shingles go on. my only question is whether i need to use flashing where the new roof ties into the existing roof. the existing roof is very steep and the new one not very at all, its only going to have about a 10 degree slope with the existing being about 50. so do i need to use flashing or can i just lift up a few courses of the old shingles and lay the new ones under?
ETA, no valley will be created just a slope transition.
Message edited by author 2012-08-03 07:27:02. |
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08/03/2012 07:25:05 AM · #2 |
It's hard to say without seeing it...but at the least I would use....argh...forget the name, but it's sticky tar paper that you use on the edge of the roof to prevent ice from forming under the shingles. Freeze paper maybe?? :-)
Anyway, flashing is your best bet but the freeze paper will help a lot...I used it on my old house where a new hip roof was joined to the old part of the house without leaks..it wasn't enough of an angle to use flashing |
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08/03/2012 07:27:48 AM · #3 |
| That goes under the shingles by the way...and it's super sticky on one side so it's really hard to get back off once it's down |
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08/03/2012 07:51:53 AM · #4 |
ok, i'll look into it.
if will look sort of like this:
the rafters will frame in the same way and the old roof will continue past.
also do i need to flash the area where the new rafter will meet the existing roof?
Message edited by author 2012-08-03 07:59:43. |
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08/03/2012 11:44:50 AM · #5 |
On that situation you do not use flashing...You have to weave the shingles in so there is no way for water to get through. Flashing is really only used in valleys or around fireplaces...etc. I hope that this will help you out..
Oh and by the way I feel sorry for people up there roofing in this heat. Drink lots of water.
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08/03/2012 12:04:27 PM · #6 |
| The super sticky stuff is called "ice and water shield". You probably don't need it or flashing, but it wouldn't hurt. Then again I think it's kind of expensive because you can only buy it by the roll and you don't need much. I would probably flash the spot where the rafters enter the house, or at least give it a good dose of roofing cement. |
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08/03/2012 01:01:18 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by cowboy221977:
On that situation you do not use flashing...You have to weave the shingles in so there is no way for water to get through. Flashing is really only used in valleys or around fireplaces...etc. I hope that this will help you out.. |
What he said! :-)
You should definitely be good without flashing (or ice sheild) in that situation...
Message edited by author 2012-08-03 13:01:34. |
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08/03/2012 02:26:57 PM · #8 |
If the new roof is a cold shed, that is exposed to the elements on both sides, and it is attaching to a warm roof, that is an attic over living space, you are looking at the ideal recipe for an ice dam. The freeze/thaw cycle will put a little dam of ice where the two roof meet, and the area behind it will pond and freeze, rinse and repeat.
In Boston winters are such that we NEVER failed to use Ice & Water shield at least 30" above this sort of application. In California, it would not be needed at sea level. In New Jersey, especially if you are going to have to pull off your solar array to fix a leaking roof, I would go the paranoid approach and seal it up before you shingle even though it means tearing off a bit of perfectly good shingle area.
Message edited by author 2012-08-03 14:41:59. |
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08/03/2012 03:03:31 PM · #9 |
You definitely do NOT want ice dams, they will work their way back under the shingles and lift them off of your roof until the water gets underneath them. You especially don't want this if you're putting solar panel up there that you don't want to remove so you can repair the roof. I'm with  BrennanOB, be liberal with the ice and water shield. |
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