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03/06/2012 08:29:21 PM · #1 |
I've got a Canon 7d and could bump the ISO to 6400. Not sure that's a good idea. Has anyone discovered what might be the highest you could use effectively? I don't usually go above 2000 but then all the feet and hands are blurry. Of course, it could be that I don't know how to focus. |
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03/06/2012 08:35:10 PM · #2 |
ISO separate of other settings is sorta meaningless.
Make sure you open your aperture completely. For the lenses you have, you'll be using your primes (50 1.8, 85 1.8, 100 2.8). I'm betting F4 is too slow.
This will also have the side effect of making your depth of field very shallow, so be aware.
You'll simply have to boost your ISO as high as is needed to achieve a high enough shutter speed. Short of supplementary light, you have no choice.
Also, consider what medium your end product will be used for. Noise can look horrible on a computer monitor and then be a non-issue in a reasonably sized print. Also consider what noise reduction software you're using, as this can help a good deal.
Lastly, ensure that you are properly exposing for your scene. Underexposure can greatly magnify the issue of noise.
ETA: Different cameras are all going to behave differently in different shooting situations with regard to noise, so some 7D users will ahve to jump in here. Here are some other threads about the 7D and noise.
//www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=1033159 //www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=969768 //www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=1010493
Message edited by author 2012-03-06 20:37:47. |
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03/06/2012 09:42:20 PM · #3 |
Those school gyms can be a challenge. Try to target 320 to 500 on the shutter speed by using iso and fast glass. Your 85mm and 100mm on the D7 would be pretty good glass to use from mid court. The 50mm under the basket. At the higher iso's it better to over expose a little shooting in raw then under exposed. It's been a while...Good Luck. |
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03/06/2012 09:53:48 PM · #4 |
Sports move fast, even at the lower HS levels. Fast glass and high ISO are really common for me. It's not unusual for me to go as high as 12,800 ISO to keep a fast enough shutter speed. The next part of the equation is aperture of the lens. While it's important you also need to make sure it's a fast internal focusing lens. Your 50MM f1.8 while fast in aperture is slow to focus so unless you prefocus on an area and then click when the action hits it, you aren't going to want to use that lens either. Your best lens for what you want to do is your 85MMF1.8.
Set your focus mode to alservo, put your lens at F1.8, set your SS to 1/400-1/500 area and then bump your ISO up until you get proper exposure. Don't be afraid to go up with it, noise to a certain extent can be dealt with in post, motion blur cannot. Good luck.
Matt |
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03/06/2012 10:40:57 PM · #5 |
You can easily go to 3200, and I've also had good results at 5000. I know I've taken some test shots at 6400 in the last year, but don't know if I kept them. I'm sure they were more than acceptable especially with a little noise reduction if even needed...in Topaz Denoise. Here are two shots I took last year at my nephews little play/skit that was held in what amounts to a gym with a stage on one side. Both of these were shot at 3200 and are straight out of the camera here with the exception of a resize to post to this thread. Any noise reduction was done in camera with the standard and auto settings on high ISO noise reduction and long exposure noise reduction. Even at full size they were pretty darn clean. At this resized size they are at 72 dpi and a print size of something like 8x12...around there.
As you can see they are pretty decent quality...image quality wise....other wise they are typical, non composed, shots of a kid's play. LOL.
The aperture setting on one was f/5 and the other I believe f/4 so hardly fast lenses. I just got a shutter speed I could work with and went from there.
Dave
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