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09/15/2012 12:02:58 AM · #76 |
Hey guys! Back with more news (and more photos!)
Just did my first indoor game tonight with my new D7000! I can't believe how amazing the shots came out! I am so happy I got this camera! I've gotten over 50 new "likes" on my facebook photography page from just posting photos there of the games! I've even gotten one person to ask me about doing a photoshoot with them! This year is going to "kick-start" my career in photography and I can hardly wait! I honestly couldn't have done it without you guys here on DPC! I've learned more than I can imagine!
Image #1
Image #2
Image #3
Image #4
Image #5
Image #6
Image #7
ETA - Took out duplicate image post.
Message edited by author 2012-09-15 00:37:04. |
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09/15/2012 12:13:00 AM · #77 |
Marko I'm glad you are getting an chance to shoot. And if you are looking for feedback I'll give you some. But won't offer it until you say it's OK.
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09/15/2012 12:14:23 AM · #78 |
Always up for some feedback! I am always looking to improve! :D |
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09/15/2012 12:30:19 AM · #79 |
Image one, is underexposed, bring the exposure up about 2/3 of a stop. It's too wide, crop it vertical with just the setter. All the other is not needed in the image
Image two pretty much the same.
Image three again underexposed. and all I'm seeing is her back
Image four underexposed(noticing a theme?) again I'm seeing her back and timing is a bit early
Image five Underexposed, timing a bit too early, and a very crooked horizon
Image six (listed twice) timing is OK, very noisy though and again the horizon is off exposure is much closer on this image though
Image seven is pretty much a stock shot, again underexposed I do like the very low angle though.
You have a decent start, but if you are looking to improve and are trying to be "The photographer" on campus you need to step it up a bit. If you see these images as properly exposed and edited, I suggest a calibration of your monitor.
Matt
Message edited by author 2012-09-15 00:31:18. |
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09/15/2012 12:34:06 AM · #80 |
I'm working on a laptop unfortunately... Lol.
I will start editing photos in the Mac Lab here at school where the monitors are MUCH MUCH better. Even though I'm no fan of Mac. Lol.
Thanks for the feedback! I only have the 50mm f/1.8. Well at least that's the only one I can drop the aperture low enough to get enough light in. Is my next purchase a bigger better lens? |
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09/15/2012 12:39:15 AM · #81 |
Originally posted by mbrutus2009: I'm working on a laptop unfortunately... Lol.
I will start editing photos in the Mac Lab here at school where the monitors are MUCH MUCH better. Even though I'm no fan of Mac. Lol.
Thanks for the feedback! I only have the 50mm f/1.8. Well at least that's the only one I can drop the aperture low enough to get enough light in. Is my next purchase a bigger better lens? |
Volleyball is a sport I shoot with a 200MM Lens and a 400MM lens. 50MM even on a crop is not near long enough. Sometimes 200 isn't long enough.
When I shoot with my 70-200 lens I could tape it at 200, when I shoot with the 200MM F2 it's obviously at 200. I also shoot with the 400 and get tight shots with it. Usually from an elevated platform or a far wall. You should try to shoot your images where little to no crop is required for final image. All you do is lose image quality. |
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09/15/2012 12:41:48 AM · #82 |
Would my 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 work well enough? Or am I just going to be fighting grain way too much? |
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09/15/2012 12:42:23 AM · #83 |
Marko, you might want to try a custom white balance on your camera ... or if you're shooting RAW experiment with different white balances in post to overcome the gym lighting you're dealing with. |
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09/15/2012 12:44:09 AM · #84 |
Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Would my 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 work well enough? Or am I just going to be fighting grain way too much? |
Not if you upgrade your body.... (that 12,800 ISO just makes me drool with envy..)

Message edited by author 2012-09-15 00:44:33. |
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09/15/2012 12:44:56 AM · #85 |
way too slow of a lens for indoor sports. You need F2.8 or faster and usable High ISO |
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09/15/2012 12:45:52 AM · #86 |
Shoot... :/
A lens good enough for indoor shoots right now are out of my price range... I'm broke! Lol. |
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09/15/2012 12:46:46 AM · #87 |
Originally posted by Cory: Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Would my 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 work well enough? Or am I just going to be fighting grain way too much? |
Not if you upgrade your body.... (that 12,800 ISO just makes me drool with envy..)
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I follow him on FB, Cory... It's nuts what his camera pics up! I'm in awe of his gear! |
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09/15/2012 12:47:38 AM · #88 |
Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Originally posted by Cory: Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Would my 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 work well enough? Or am I just going to be fighting grain way too much? |
Not if you upgrade your body.... (that 12,800 ISO just makes me drool with envy..)
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I follow him on FB, Cory... It's nuts what his camera pics up! I'm in awe of his gear! |
Yeah my camera takes pretty pictures. :D
Matt |
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09/15/2012 12:48:49 AM · #89 |
Soon enough, I'll be holding something of that quality... Just not right now... Lol. |
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09/15/2012 12:53:45 AM · #90 |
Originally posted by Dr.Confuser: Marko, you might want to try a custom white balance on your camera ... or if you're shooting RAW experiment with different white balances in post to overcome the gym lighting you're dealing with. |
White balance is something I've never been able to grasp the concept of. I guess since I will be editing in the Mac Lab from now on I don't have to worry about space on my computer! Lol. |
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09/15/2012 12:55:56 AM · #91 |
Originally posted by MattO: Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Originally posted by Cory: Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Would my 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 work well enough? Or am I just going to be fighting grain way too much? |
Not if you upgrade your body.... (that 12,800 ISO just makes me drool with envy..)
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I follow him on FB, Cory... It's nuts what his camera pics up! I'm in awe of his gear! |
Yeah my camera takes pretty pictures. :D
Matt |
LOL... Yeah, absolutely no idea why they even bother with the wetware. ;) |
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09/15/2012 11:28:46 AM · #92 |
I think you did an excellent job. I don't know if its considered Kosher for sports but, i would make a couple small changes.
1. bring up overall exposure (raw gives you a stop maybe even two worth of room here) till the brightest detail in the picture looks at regular exposure (note: i mean skin tones/clothes and not lights)
2. bring up shadows and blacks to adjust whatever maybe "too dark". play with contrast if you have to: to make things look right.
3. final global adjustments like color balance/NR after those two steps.
These things allow for use of camera's that may show noise at higher iso's but reveal good detail in dark areas. (I don't know for sure, but i've read that your Nikon is quite capable in that department. It worked well enough with my 60d and works better still with the 5dmkiii which i prefer never to raise past 6400iso even in extremely low lit scenarios.
edit: equipment upgrades would help tremendously for sure, but your equipment can still take decent shots if you use some simple post work.
Message edited by author 2012-09-15 11:34:15. |
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09/15/2012 11:35:44 AM · #93 |
Originally posted by mbrutus2009:
White balance is something I've never been able to grasp the concept of... |
Let's give this a try... imagine you have two different lighting scenarios, one lit by tungsten lamps, so very warm light, and one lit in open shade during daytime, very cool light. The "warm" lighting situation has a lot more red (longer wavelength) light. The "cool" scenario has more blue (shorter wavelength) light. So in the warm scenario, if you look at your histogram, you'll see the red channel peak is farther to the right than the green, and much farther right than the blue. For the cool lighting scenario, it's the opposite, blue peak farthest right, then green, then red.
Now, when we talk about white (or gray), we recognize that it's composed of *equal* parts red, green and blue. So, if the "raw" data has more red, we'll need to shift the *balance* toward blue (cooler) to make whites white and grays gray. If the raw data has more blue, we need to shift the white balance warmer, to bring in more red (and to an extent green) to again make whites white.
Now, if you followed that, you understand white balance! |
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09/15/2012 12:19:54 PM · #94 |
Let me add to what Kirbic said (very well indeed) that the eye/brain system is an auto-white-balance system. I'm sure you've had the following experience;
You're sitting in your living room with the room lights (tungsten) on, and the room looks "neutral; the walls look white, pretty much. You look out the window and see a striking post-sunset deep-purple sky developing. So you walk outside to take it ion. It looks pretty fine for a few seconds, then starts to fade dramatically. You look back at the house, and through the window the room looks YELLOW! That's the difference in white balance between tungsten lights (vey warm) and post-sunset daylight (extremely blue as it's all diffused, reflected light from the sky... |
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09/15/2012 04:39:42 PM · #95 |
Okay... So I get the idea (very well explained might I add by you guys, thanks!) but now how do I know which WB setting do I use for my gym shots? |
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09/16/2012 09:53:40 AM · #96 |
Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Okay... So I get the idea (very well explained might I add by you guys, thanks!) but now how do I know which WB setting do I use for my gym shots? |
Gym lighting is some of the most difficult to shoot in. Most use metal halide arc lamps for lighting, and depending on the specific type of lamp, the color cast differs. To make things worse, some gyms mix different types of lamps, either intentionally or unintentionally. So what to do?
First, set a custom white balance on the floor with a gray card. Now you are about as close as you're going to get, and your LCD display should give a pretty natural display. If you are shooting RAW, you'll use the gray card shot again later to apply correction in RAW conversion. |
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09/16/2012 10:52:25 AM · #97 |
Originally posted by kirbic: Originally posted by mbrutus2009: Okay... So I get the idea (very well explained might I add by you guys, thanks!) but now how do I know which WB setting do I use for my gym shots? |
Gym lighting is some of the most difficult to shoot in. Most use metal halide arc lamps for lighting, and depending on the specific type of lamp, the color cast differs. To make things worse, some gyms mix different types of lamps, either intentionally or unintentionally. So what to do?
First, set a custom white balance on the floor with a gray card. Now you are about as close as you're going to get, and your LCD display should give a pretty natural display. If you are shooting RAW, you'll use the gray card shot again later to apply correction in RAW conversion. |
Most gym lighting also cycles on and off, and with shutter speeds higher than 1/60th you will catch bright and dark parts of the cycle depending on when the shutter is clicked. The Colors on some will also cycle from normal to green to red. It's a constant battle. Sports photography isn't easy, if it was everyone would do it well.
Matt |
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09/16/2012 05:56:37 PM · #98 |
Originally posted by MattO: It's a constant battle. |
So the best bet is shooting RAW and having it on "auto white balance"? |
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09/16/2012 08:49:05 PM · #99 |
depends on how you do it..
1. take a few gray shots, and pick the one that makes most sense at shoot time, shoot in raw and then later adjust in post?
2. shoot servo so you get 2-3 shots atleast per moment and try to grab as many as you can?
3. i don't care way too much about true color, and stick to what i like to see. I find this less frustrating. Definitely shoot raw to keep the options open ofcourse.
the other guys here are true pros, Matt having a bejeebus amount of experience specifically in pro sports.. The tips i m giving are based on the several mistakes i've learned from shooting Judo and track for my friends.
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09/16/2012 09:17:47 PM · #100 |
Originally posted by mbrutus2009: So the best bet is shooting RAW and having it on "auto white balance"? |
Shooting RAW it doesn't matter really what WB you set, because that's a step that's applied in the processing of the image anyway. You can make it be whatever looks right in post. It's easier to VIEW the images in the screening process if the WB is reasonably accurate, and AWB usually is, so that's what I tend to do, but nevertheless if I'm shooting in unusual lighting situations I'll often shoot my RAWs with a custom WB of some stripe just so they look more like what I envisioned right out of the box. Makes it easier to screen them. |
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