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08/19/2011 09:08:16 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by Neil:
I did that for a while on my Canon...but it's tougher for a quick action grab shot....sometimes I forgot to focus! But I did like it in general...maybe I'll try it again on my Nikon. |
It's not so good for shooting action, agreed. You switch back to the normal mode for that. But it's really good for street photography especially, where you frequently want to be at something resembling the hyperfocal. It's really, really good for landscape work, where you can set your focus first, then swing the camera WAY off subject to meter a zone 5 and then swing back to your intended framing, confident that your preset focus has not shifted.
It's like manual focusing, except with the convenience of doing it with the press of a button. I do NOT, as a rule, like my focus to be determined at the same instant as my exposure, that just feels wrong to me.
R. |
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08/19/2011 09:20:05 PM · #27 |
I use the center focus point 90% of the time. I auto focus on point of interest using center focus point then turn auto focus off to manual and recompose the shot I want.
Message edited by author 2011-08-19 21:21:20. |
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08/19/2011 09:28:04 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by JonoTucker:
I use the center focus point 90% of the time. I auto focus on point of interest using center focus point then turn auto focus off to manual and recompose the shot I want. |
This is EXACTLY the kind of scenario that can be streamlined by dedicating the rear button to focusing use. No need to switch autofocus on and off, a very cumbersome process IMO.
R. |
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08/19/2011 09:30:05 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by Melethia:
Poorly. And using two buttons to do three things is way too complicated for me. So I'll just keep doing what I'm doing poorly. Stubborn old git, I am.... |
You've got a dedicated button on the back of your 7D, right where your thumb will reach easily, for focusing. If you use your custom functions to separate out the focusing from the shutter, moving it to this button, it means, in street photography, that you can pre-focus your scenes and then never worry that when you press the shutter button your focusing mark is going to be on something other than what you want it to be on. It's a Godsend. Instead of focusing every time you push the shutter button halfway, the camera only focuses when you tap the thumb button and tell it to.
Give it a try, you stubborn old git. Once you get used to it, you'll wonder how you managed without it. It's like a halfway house between full autofocus and full manual focus.
R. |
Very true, and not to mention...believe it or not...it extends your battery life. I've read this at some point direct from Canon. When you eliminate the need for the camera to focus on EVERY shot when nothing has changed and it's not necessary you are using less battery. It's a common thing for a lot of people to actually hit the shutter halfway down multiple times to "be sure" they locked the focus in before they shoot. You use more juice from the battery than necessary before you even take the shot. I've also read...again...from Canon that the longer you hold down the shutter halfway once you get the focus and exposure locked the more it drains the battery. So if you have to focus...hold down the shutter to lock focus...recompose...allow the exposure to lock and then take the shot all that takes time holding down the shutter longer as opposed to locking focus using the button on the back of the camera and actuating the shutter using less time to take the shot.
Dave
Message edited by author 2011-08-19 21:33:59. |
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08/19/2011 09:33:02 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by Neil:
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by Melethia:
Poorly. And using two buttons to do three things is way too complicated for me. So I'll just keep doing what I'm doing poorly. Stubborn old git, I am.... |
You've got a dedicated button on the back of your 7D, right where your thumb will reach easily, for focusing. If you use your custom functions to separate out the focusing from the shutter, moving it to this button, it means, in street photography, that you can pre-focus your scenes and then never worry that when you press the shutter button your focusing mark is going to be on something other than what you want it to be on. It's a Godsend. Instead of focusing every time you push the shutter button halfway, the camera only focuses when you tap the thumb button and tell it to.
Give it a try, you stubborn old git. Once you get used to it, you'll wonder how you managed without it. It's like a halfway house between full autofocus and full manual focus.
R. |
I did that for a while on my Canon...but it's tougher for a quick action grab shot....sometimes I forgot to focus! But I did like it in general...maybe I'll try it again on my Nikon. |
I can see where it would be easy to forget to focus when you are trying to grab a fast shot so I agree with you there. I do think once you get used to the separated button actions that it becomes just as fluid and intuitive using memory muscle and instinct. Everyone is different though, and that's why it's great that manufacturers give us options to shoot in different ways when feasible.
Dave |
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08/19/2011 10:23:20 PM · #31 |
I have a Canon 20D. Most of the time, I use the center point for focusing. I pick the spot to focus and compose the shot. I've switched the buttons around though. The focus is no longer on the index finger, rather, I use my thumb on one of the thumb buttons.
If the object is moving I will either try the AI Servo mode or go to manual, it really depends. Lately though, I'm finding manual focusing for moving objects a little better, but only when it is constantly moving and/or is a large object. If the object tends to move and then stand still I'll go to AI Servo (as long as its big enough to be picked up by the point). Primarily because I'm gripping the camera differently now, to improve sharpness. This grip takes my left hand off the lens so I can get a sharper shot when still.
If I am in AI Servo, I'll use whichever point gives me a better composition (leading, trailing, center...). |
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08/19/2011 10:24:00 PM · #32 |
Totally agree, I've switched to the rear button a while ago...so much nicer there.
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by JonoTucker:
I use the center focus point 90% of the time. I auto focus on point of interest using center focus point then turn auto focus off to manual and recompose the shot I want. |
This is EXACTLY the kind of scenario that can be streamlined by dedicating the rear button to focusing use. No need to switch autofocus on and off, a very cumbersome process IMO.
R. |
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08/19/2011 10:43:29 PM · #33 |
I always shoot Manual with AI servo set to center point for most sports or action subjects. Landscapes and most non action subjects I shoot full manual.
Events with fast portraits of guests I'll do same as sports, unless I need to shoot a off centered, then I'll focus manually. |
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08/19/2011 10:49:18 PM · #34 |
| Not sure if other brands offer the same, but my Pentax has a feature that disables half-press shutter release focus when the AF button on the back of the camera is held down. So, I have the convenience of the half-press, but for recomposure I can focus using the half-press, then hold down the AF button and be confident that I'm not going to get any re-focussing from the shutter button. Make sense? |
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08/19/2011 11:09:24 PM · #35 |
I also use the D7000, and have found that I can get the flying bird shots most of the time using center weighted 9 point metering and continuous focusing. The hardest birds for me to get so far have been the little Purple Martins in flight, because they dart around all over the place at about the speed of sound.
With the VR lenses, the VR takes a little time to spool up, usually about 1/2 second, so if you are watching a shot develop, you can focus on something at about the distance you expect the subject to cross the frame, and hold the shutter button half way until the subject gets where you want it, AF will then lock in very quickly.
For wildlife on the ground, like deer, I like to use manual focus or single point AF-S and aperture priority. I shoot a couple AF first, then go to manual focus if the subject stays there long enough.
For stationary shooting it's mostly manual focusing, and often with older all manual lenses.
Setting the diopter by looking at the heads-up display in the viewfinder had me focusing beyond the subject a lot before I figured out how to set the diopter this way; Camera on tripod, manually focus on an object at medium range by using the LCD zoomed in to get exact focus. Without changing the anything else, switch off the LCD view, and look through the viewfinder and set the diopter for best focus on the chosen object for your eye.
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08/20/2011 12:48:41 AM · #36 |
Originally posted by ambaker:
Press the button halfway down, and wait for the beep.
Is there another way? |
Not that I know of, though Bear is trying to tell me there is. I'm quite fond of the halfway down/beep method. Very soothing, really, when I'm attempting macros with the 100mm and I just keep bobbing back and forth... beep beep beep... good thing I don't shoot insects. They'd get very annoyed. The flowers don't seem to mind.
Oh, and I tend to use one of the off-center points on the 7D - either right or left, up or down depending on my mood and what I'm shooting. I couldn't do that with the 30D as often - the center was a far better focus point - but the 7D is pretty good at the first ring around the center. Saves that whole shift/recompose step most of the time.
Message edited by author 2011-08-20 00:51:28. |
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08/20/2011 07:20:28 AM · #37 |
Originally posted by Neil:
Sounds like a silly question, but I'm wondering what others do...
I only use one focus method on my camera. I use single shot focus on the center of the image, and then while still holding the shutter, I recompose. On tripod I may move the focus point off center, or more typically, just manualy focus.
I've never found any of the other focus modes on any of my Nikon cameras to work for me. I've tried the new tracking focus on my D7000, but the problem I have with it, is that all the auto modes want to pick the subject, and they are often wrong. If it does pick the right subject, it's kind of cool that it sort of follows, but it's not 100%.
Obviously, my method isn't very good for tracking birds, etc., or fast moving subjects.
But I wonder what you all use for focus modes. Maybe I'm missing something on my Nikon. |
Do you mean AF accuracy other than the center focus point not working with your D7000? I think you should send it to Service Centre.
In D90 there is only 1 cross type sensitive focus point. So I agree off center focus points tend to cause focus hunting in low contrast and misfocused shots sometime. D7k improve on that with 9.
On papers, D7000 specs outdone all DX bodies up to date. But I was in doubt it can out perform semi pro bodies in term of AF speed and accuracy when come to fast action shot.
I don't use center focus point in D300s, it's always on thirds. I set custom settings to both of Menu bank and Setting bank with A,B and C. A is default "jpeg snapshot", B set for quality 14 bit raw and C for fast speed with less AF points. So far AF for still, fast action or panning, all works great. No idea about VR2.
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08/20/2011 07:29:09 AM · #38 |
Originally posted by Melethia:
Originally posted by ambaker:
Press the button halfway down, and wait for the beep.
Is there another way? |
Not that I know of, though Bear is trying to tell me there is. I'm quite fond of the halfway down/beep method. Very soothing, really, when I'm attempting macros with the 100mm and I just keep bobbing back and forth... beep beep beep... good thing I don't shoot insects. They'd get very annoyed. The flowers don't seem to mind. |
It'll still beep no matter which button you use to focus with. Although you can turn the beep off in the menu if it's bugging the insects. With macro, especially, the back-button focus is a fine idea, since the preferred macro technique is to establish focus then move the camera physically in-and-out to maintain it. Which is why most serious macro shooters manually focus most of the time. And, like I said, back-button focus is like having semi-manual focus at your command.
Kind of like the difference between full auto and aperture-preferred, when it comes to exposure; it's not quite the same as full manual, but it's halfway there and it melds convenience and control rather nicely...
R. |
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08/20/2011 10:11:20 AM · #39 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by Melethia:
Originally posted by ambaker:
Press the button halfway down, and wait for the beep.
Is there another way? |
Not that I know of, though Bear is trying to tell me there is. I'm quite fond of the halfway down/beep method. Very soothing, really, when I'm attempting macros with the 100mm and I just keep bobbing back and forth... beep beep beep... good thing I don't shoot insects. They'd get very annoyed. The flowers don't seem to mind. |
It'll still beep no matter which button you use to focus with. Although you can turn the beep off in the menu if it's bugging the insects. With macro, especially, the back-button focus is a fine idea, since the preferred macro technique is to establish focus then move the camera physically in-and-out to maintain it. Which is why most serious macro shooters manually focus most of the time. And, like I said, back-button focus is like having semi-manual focus at your command.
Kind of like the difference between full auto and aperture-preferred, when it comes to exposure; it's not quite the same as full manual, but it's halfway there and it melds convenience and control rather nicely...
R. |
lol beeping not only annoyed insects, it's bugging the human too.
Rear button focusing AF-On button was a favorite for Thom Hogan. He mentioned that full length on his write up "Complete Guide" manual. It has many advantages and also some disadvantage for Nikon user. With heavy long lens, it's best not to use it because we need that useful thump for firm grip not for controlling the AF. |
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08/20/2011 09:10:28 PM · #40 |
I with vawendy on the 7D, I find that I typically use the centre zone about 80% of the time, and adjust to other zones or points as needed for the rest.
I couldn't believe the difference from my old Rebel XT. The focussing system on the 7D rocks! |
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08/28/2011 07:45:46 AM · #41 |
| I have a D3100 with its kit lens, I find images are not very sharp. Who could be the most probable culprit - me, the camera or the lens?? |
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08/28/2011 10:47:00 AM · #42 |
| I picked up an old EOS 7e for cheap money. Eye control focusing rocks! Too bad they chose not to continue to offer it. I triedmit out for fun, and I really like it. With today's technology and lenses it could be killer technology. |
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08/28/2011 11:22:07 AM · #43 |
| Just recently started using rear AF-on suggestion of another photog who's work I admire and it is great! I find my images are sharper and the shutter button doesn't make the auto-focus hunt if there is any movement or change. |
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08/28/2011 01:45:56 PM · #44 |
| what is focus? do you mean "adjust the blur"? |
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08/28/2011 02:47:05 PM · #45 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Most of the time, I have the focus separated from the shutter button to the button on the camera back. So I focus with my thumb, and expose-and-shoot with the shutter button: halfway sets exposure, then I recompose and press all the way to capture. This is a much more accurate variation on the focus/recompose paradigm. I find that when I have exposure and focus both linked to the shutter button a lot of the time the exposure is not what I'd want it to be.
I'll change the custom function back to full focus/expose/shutter in one-click mode if I'm shooting action, though.
R. |
Hey Bear,
Can you give me instructions on how to set this up using 5D Mark II?
Thanks! |
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08/28/2011 03:41:35 PM · #46 |
I primarily use constant and will switch to single if it seems more appropriate (tripod, portrait) but largely leave it in constant even for landscapes. I also leave 3d tracking on always with point metering and move the focus point all over the place. I just like the flexibility of not having to switch modes or anything, and even if the tracking isn't working too well for something, I have the focus point positioned where in my frame I want it. I also use the sub command dial as automatic exposure comp, in aperture priority mode, so I can adjust exposure without even moving my eye or fingers away from the normal controls.
I've tried the AF-ON only and wasn't too fond of it, though it made me much more deliberate with my focus. |
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08/29/2011 09:31:10 PM · #47 |
| Does anyone know how to set up 5D Mark II to utilize the back button for focusing, like puppy bear described? |
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08/29/2011 10:03:07 PM · #48 |
I primarily shoot (mostly) stationary subjects so your mileage may vary... Once I got over my annoyance with tripods - buying one that works well helped that immensely - I started focusing differently.
I use almost exclusively full manual mode now. I setup my shot with the viewfinder and roughly focus to the center of the frame - then I swap over to live view, line up the composition, magnify 5x or 10x after centering my view on the point I want, manually adjust the focus until it's sharp - I also will use the DOF preview to make sure elements aren't creeping into the shot from behind and then snap away using a wireless trigger to prevent camera shake while pressing the button.
It's definitely not the most efficient - and certainly not effective for action or most nature shots, but for macros or portraits it works pretty well. |
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08/30/2011 05:10:14 AM · #49 |
Originally posted by maggieddd:
Does anyone know how to set up 5D Mark II to utilize the back button for focusing, like puppy bear described? |
//www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml
:) |
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08/30/2011 02:06:34 PM · #50 |
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