| Author | Thread |
|
|
07/08/2011 02:42:12 PM · #1 |
I'm about to need a new camera body. Though still sick to my stomach at missing this a short time ago, I do acknowledge that my 30D, while still working, has a LOT of shots on it. I can still use it for the action stuff, but I'm getting more into "still" portrait things (being drug kicking and screaming would probably be a better description), so the need for speed isn't as high a priorities.
Any suggestions? |
|
|
|
07/08/2011 02:48:27 PM · #2 |
| I think any body you can afford is going to serve you pretty well. The 5D or 5D2 would be the flagship "portrait" body for Canon, but probably isn't necessary if you want to use a lower line. Look for a used 5D model. |
|
|
|
07/08/2011 02:50:44 PM · #3 |
| yea, i was thinking a 5D as well. |
|
|
|
07/08/2011 03:01:11 PM · #4 |
If you plan on doing a lot of outdoor portraits then the 5DMII can be limiting. If money was no object I would get a camera with a flash sync of 1/500 or better, or at the very least a camera that actually syncs at 1/250, which isn't the 5DMII.
|
|
|
|
07/08/2011 03:15:53 PM · #5 |
I love my 5DmkII.
I don't worry too much about the sync speed since the High Speed Sync on the Canon Speedlites works quite well.
If you're using studio style strobes, you may run into problems since their flash durations can be longer and they won't sync at higher speeds, but that's the lights, not the camera. |
|
|
|
07/08/2011 03:23:15 PM · #6 |
I have a 40D and pretty much only use it for portraits (never shot anything high speed on it) don't think there is too much difference between the 40D and 30D so maybe a nice new lens might be better?
That being said I'm waiting for the 5D Mark III. |
|
|
|
07/08/2011 03:28:39 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by JamesA:
I have a 40D and pretty much only use it for portraits (never shot anything high speed on it) don't think there is too much difference between the 40D and 30D so maybe a nice new lens might be better?
That being said I'm waiting for the 5D Mark III. |
yea. my 30D works well, i'm just not sure how much longer it is going last. :/
|
|
|
|
07/08/2011 03:29:23 PM · #8 |
There is no right answer, it really depends on your particular style of portraiture.
If you want to do natural light portraiture with DoF so shallow that a pupil is in focus but and eye lash is not, a full frame camera, such as the 5D might be your best bet.
If you're like me and DoF doesn't need to be that shallow and you're in grungy, grimy and otherwise destructive elements all the time, you might settle for a "lesser" camera.
In studio with strobes and controlled lighting it really doesn't matter what camera you have in your hand.
|
|
|
|
07/08/2011 04:08:35 PM · #9 |
| What are the specifics on a camera body that gears it for portraits? |
|
|
|
07/08/2011 04:10:38 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by Spork99:
I love my 5DmkII.
I don't worry too much about the sync speed since the High Speed Sync on the Canon Speedlites works quite well.
If you're using studio style strobes, you may run into problems since their flash durations can be longer and they won't sync at higher speeds, but that's the lights, not the camera. |
Sure if you're working with low powered Canon speedlites. For those who are using bigger lights that camera in particular can pose some limits which don't exist with other cameras.
|
|
|
|
07/08/2011 04:45:13 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by yanko:
Originally posted by Spork99:
I love my 5DmkII.
I don't worry too much about the sync speed since the High Speed Sync on the Canon Speedlites works quite well.
If you're using studio style strobes, you may run into problems since their flash durations can be longer and they won't sync at higher speeds, but that's the lights, not the camera. |
Sure if you're working with low powered Canon speedlites. For those who are using bigger lights that camera in particular can pose some limits which don't exist with other cameras. |
How so?
The only time I've run into a sync problems is with my strobes and then, it's been because the duration of the light is longer than the time the shutter is open, as I mentioned. This will result in an actual exposure that's less than what a flashmeter would indicate. You can also have problems if you use a syncing system that's too slow to trigger the strobes. You'd probably never notice this misalignment in triggering at slower sync speeds, but when your shutter is only open for a few milliseconds and you have a longer duration flash, it can make a huge difference. |
|
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 11/06/2025 08:02:16 AM EST.
