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05/02/2011 03:34:43 PM · #1 |
| I can sit at my computer all day putting in numbers in unsharp mask in PSP and I'll never get it right........so, does anyone have any good settings for that? I use Paint Shop Pro not Photoshop. Thanks! |
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05/02/2011 03:39:06 PM · #2 |
For sharpening downsized images, I use Radius .75 Strength 75 and clipping 3 or Radius 1.0 Strength 100 and clipping 3 most of the time.
Tim |
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05/02/2011 03:41:20 PM · #3 |
Depends on how big the image you are sharpening is. I'm assuming a challenge or web-sized image. Here's what I use:
-Radius 0.35 (You need to type this in, as the sliders and arrow buttons won't go under 1.0)
-Amount 150 (Adjust up or down as needed, but this is a good starting point for challenge-size entries)
-Clipping 3 or 4
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05/02/2011 03:41:59 PM · #4 |
After I resize for the web I use Unsharp Mask at;
Amount 55%
Radius 1.0 pixels
Threshold 0 |
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05/02/2011 03:45:27 PM · #5 |
I sharpen differently every time depending on the image size, subject, the tone I'm trying to convey. I use at least four different methods and constantly play with the sliders on different modes and channels. There's really only one constant: I mess it up every time.
Any book/site recommendations? |
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05/02/2011 03:48:05 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by bohemka:
Any book/site recommendations? |
PaintShop Pro resources list
PaintShop Pro user group on Flickr
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05/02/2011 03:48:47 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by Yo_Spiff:
Depends on how big the image you are sharpening is. I'm assuming a challenge or web-sized image. Here's what I use:
-Radius 0.35 (You need to type this in, as the sliders and arrow buttons won't go under 1.0)
-Amount 150 (Adjust up or down as needed, but this is a good starting point for challenge-size entries)
-Clipping 3 or 4 |
Interesting. I'll have to give this a try.
Tim
PS: Do you know how tough it is to beat you in answering a PSP question? |
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05/02/2011 03:51:46 PM · #8 |
Thanks a lot. I think I'm looking more for the philosophy behind it, however. Such as why editing the luminosity channel will improve sharpness without introducing noise, and stuff like that. And why certain methods create better local contrast and others don't. I'm just fiddling with knobs until i like the look, but I'd rather go at it from another angle.
(Sorry, no thread hijack attempt here!) |
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05/02/2011 03:55:27 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by atupdate:
PS: Do you know how tough it is to beat you in answering a PSP question? |
Hey, you beat me by a few seconds this time. Our answers were actually similar, but you used a larger radius and smaller amount. Your .75/100 probably gives about the same sharpening as my .35/150 does. A smaller radius reduces the potential for sharpening halos, though oversharpening can still be done. I feel like it gives me finer control. For larger than websize images I do need to use a larger radius.
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05/02/2011 04:00:22 PM · #10 |
Those settings look pretty analogous to those in Photoshop (Diameter, Amount, Threshold).
For helping improve the contrast in a flat-looking landscape, try applying a "high-radius USM," along the lines of:
Radius: 60
Amt: 15%
Clipping: 0
For edge-sharpening I will use
Radius: 0.6-1.3
Amt: 66-88%
Clipping: 5
Both of the previous refer to challenge-sized images.
I often find that applying "lighter" settings twice gives better sharpening with fewer halos than a "hevier" setting applied once.
Message edited by author 2011-05-02 16:01:37. |
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05/02/2011 04:01:08 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by bohemka:
I think I'm looking more for the philosophy behind it, however. Such as why editing the luminosity channel will improve sharpness without introducing noise, and stuff like that. And why certain methods create better local contrast and others don't. I'm just fiddling with knobs until i like the look, but I'd rather go at it from another angle. |
You want to understand the nuts and bolts. I'm the same way. Just being told what button to push solves the immediate problem, but knowing how it works solves it when I run into it again under slightly different conditions.
There have been some discussions of that nature in the Flickr group, but I've run into them because I am in there regularly. Not sure how one would find that kind of info in a forum list. there are a couple of really smart people in the PSP group though. I'll bet if you posted the theoretical nuts & bolts questions, someone would have answer.
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05/02/2011 04:12:28 PM · #12 |
How it works:
The filter looks for areas of contrast, and then makes the lighter side lighter and the darker side darker in order to accentuate the edge.
ΓΆ€ΒΆ The Threshold or Clipping setting determines "how different" two areas of color must be in order for the filter to be applied. If you set this too low you can get "banding" in areas of what should be smooth gradients as the color transitions are made "more different."
ΓΆ€ΒΆ The Diameter or Radius setting determines how many pixels to each side of the color junction will be affected by the filter. Making this too large can lead to "halos" or unwanted outlines around objects. (Try setting it to 20 pixels and create a near stained-glass effect.)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ The Amount setting determines to what degree the filter is applied. You will probably need to experiment to find what works with the other two settings; for typical edge sharpening use it is almost always between 50-200%.
They work somewhat like ISO, Aperture, and Shutter-Speed do for exposure ...
Message edited by author 2011-05-02 16:12:55. |
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05/02/2011 06:21:45 PM · #13 |
| Thanks, I'll try some of those settings!! |
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