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DPChallenge Forums >> Individual Photograph Discussion >> My Favorite Focal Length for Studio Fashion
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 08/09/2010 12:14:02 PM · #1
Everyone I know in the business have their preferences regarding focal lengths for different applications. I tend to work quite a bit shorter than most when it comes to working in closed quarters in a studio environment. I specify this for a reason. Studio work is a fixed space that you set up lights in and know what those dimensions are for the whole day of the shoot. Unlike interior location shoots where you often have to change settings and adapt your focal lengths to the circumstances.

It is for this reason, that I often find myself using a wide angle zoom in non studio environments. My focal length of choice in 75% of my studio shoots is around 60-75mm i.e. 40-50mm in the 1.5 ratio APS-C sensor cameras. But I tend to shoot closer to the former. I have read on several forums that the majority of shooters tend to shoot quite a bit longer i.e. 90-120mm i.e. 60-80mm 1.5 ration APS-C sensor cameras. I find that getting in closer to the model, allows you to communicate on a different level which in my opinion is more immediate. I am also not that fond of (at least at this juncture in time) that compressed long focal length look. All of the major brands have focal lengths that fill this criteria.

I have on occasion shot shorter than the above at around 30mm (45mm) APS-C, with very pleasing results, but for this focal length I need to work in studio's with very high ceilings, as I more often than not am sitting or lying on the floor when shooting. I also need the much larger seamless when using this wider focal length or just work off of a bare studio cyclo wall.

Shooting at these shorter focal lengths most certainly have a distinctively modern edgy look about them (at least for now)...So don't be afraid to experiment with shorter than the recommended norm for fashion work. It may give you a bit of the edge to stand out from the rest of the very highly populated crowd.

Would love to get your feedback...
 08/09/2010 01:04:48 PM · #2
A lot of it depends on what type of portrait you're shooting, head and shoulders, full length, groups, etc.

Traditionally, the 85mm to 105mm (on full frame 35mm format) is considered the ideal focal length. Legendary lenses, the 90mm 2.0 Sumicron from Leica, the 105mm 2.5 Nikkor from Nikon, the 85mm 1.2L from Canon all made their bones as portrait lenses. The slight telephoto compression was considered more flattering on facial features, particularly the nose. Plus, the relatively fast lenses blurred the background nicely for subject isolation and bokeh. If you use a wider angle lens the nose tends to be exaggerated and nobody wants an exaggerated nose, right?

Also the working distance these lenses allowed made for a more comfortable distance between the photographer and the subject.

That's the history, your particular style and subject matter may require you to move away from these standards.

08/10/2010 06:21:34 AM · #3
Yes, tradition has designated most of what you have stated as being the standards used in the majority of cases. However, to break with convention and perhaps have ones image stand out from the herd, it might be an interesting exercise to look into other possibilities.
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