fireworks tips - DPChallenge Forums

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

06/29/2010 09:22:51 AM · #1

hi everyone, I'm new here, i love looking at all your great photos to get ideas, maybe I'll submit to some contests after I'm not so green.

onto my question, i plan to go down to Maryland this weekend on the Chesapeake to get some relaxation and some photos. I wanted to try and get some pics of the fireworks display that will be over the water.

any tips on getting good shots of fireworks? I have never tried to photo them before so any help would be great!

Yo_Spiff

Olympus 12-100mm f/4.0 M.Zuiko ED IS PRO

06/29/2010 09:30:10 AM · #2

Here is an older thread that has some tips and suggested settings.

Essentially, fireworks require use of manual mode, otherwise the camera will be trying to expose for the dark sky instead of the bright fireworks. I always have to look it up myself before going out to shoot them.

And welcome to the phunny pharm of photography. Jump on into the shark tank, the water's fine. Don't worry about being "green". If you are not feeling ready for a challenge yet, commenting on others entries is a great way to train your eye and figure out what makes an engaging image. You can then apply such insight to your own photograpy. Most members appreciate the feedback, even when it is not glowing praise.

Message edited by author 2010-06-29 09:34:47.

spiritualspatula

Panasonic LUMIX DMC-LX100

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

06/29/2010 10:45:10 AM · #3

Some good info in the thread. Some basic things to consider- keeping your shutter open longer will increase the presence of ambient environment (trees, lakes, whatever). I would set a nice relatively small aperture (F9ish) and see what the camera says is the expected exposure. Before fireworks commense, test to see what that looks like. Keep in mind, fireworks will add to the ambient slightly, as well. Then, expose using bulb and a remote release, bleeding in ambient whenever you choose to. Be careful though, as multiple pops in one place will not look terribly good.

Panasonic LUMIX DMC-LX100

06/29/2010 11:15:28 AM · #4

thanks one thing i didn't consider was the remote release, i ordered one, hopefully it comes in before Friday.

spiritualspatula

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

06/29/2010 11:30:15 AM · #5

You can get by without one, due to the long releases, but it is going to be lots lots easier with one. Don't worry about using mirror up, as your shutter duration isn't correct for worrying about it. I had some alright success with a P&S even for fireworks, and I had no control over shutter duration on that.

Yo_Spiff

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

Olympus 12-100mm f/4.0 M.Zuiko ED IS PRO

06/29/2010 11:36:24 AM · #6

If you are concerned about camera shake when you press the shutter button, simply use the self timer. The 2 second timer ought to be sufficient for this purpose.

spiritualspatula

Panasonic LUMIX DMC-LX100

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

06/29/2010 11:42:39 AM · #7

Originally posted by Yo_Spiff:

If you are concerned about camera shake when you press the shutter button, simply use the self timer. The 2 second timer ought to be sufficient for this purpose.

I was actually about to post this. Very good advice, however, it will decrease your control over shutter duration for your shots. I think I'll be actually purposefully shooting fireworks this year, for once (hopefully), so things should be fun.

Canon 12x IS USM (S3 IS built-in Lens) -- 36-432mm (35mm EQ)

06/29/2010 11:55:45 AM · #8

Originally posted by Yo_Spiff:

If you are concerned about camera shake when you press the shutter button, simply use the self timer. The 2 second timer ought to be sufficient for this purpose.

i thought about that and if the remote doesnt get here in time, i will do that, but i wanted more control of when the shot started as opposed to anticipating when the shot would start, also having control of the exposure time would be nice too.

GeneralE

Canon PowerShot S3 IS

06/29/2010 12:44:36 PM · #9

You might also want to check out this tutorial on making a montage of fireworks shots.

I think I've always had the best luck using relatively "normal" exposures and just trying to time the explosions.

Canon 12x IS USM (S3 IS built-in Lens) -- 36-432mm (35mm EQ)

07/06/2010 08:11:22 AM · #10

Thanks for all the tips I attached some links to my pics, not bad for my first attempt if i must say so ;).

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0594-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0595-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0596-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0604-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0613-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0620-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0623-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1167618/Fireworks/IMG_0627-1.JPG

i took well over a hundred shots, these were the best. I wished i could have gotten in a better location, i was on a dock by a friends boat, it was a great viewing spot, but it may have been too close and i couldn't get the boats and pile tops out of the frame, but i think it adds something to the photos now that i see it.

the remote trigger was key so thanks for that tip, i opened the shutter right before the burst and exposed the shot as long i felt would capture the firework, usually between 4-7 secs.

f10
iso 100
bulb withe remote

let me know how i did.

Message edited by author 2010-07-21 20:45:16.

NormanLUnderwood20

07/21/2010 08:33:26 PM · #11

Wow mike_311! Nice shot! Thanks for sharing this links..Really nice shot!
Wonderful! Thanks..

GeneralE

Canon PowerShot S3 IS

07/21/2010 08:43:30 PM · #12

Originally posted by mike_311:

... i couldn't get the boats and pile tops out of the frame, but i think it adds something to the photos now that i see it.

That's the best part, and what makes these different from any other "stock shots" of fireworks going off. The degree of silhouette of the structures and trace of color in the sky near the horizon is just right.

The only thing this is not so good for is assembling a montage as described in the tutorial I linked -- for that you usually want the bursts isolated against a uniformly dark sky.

Good job -- thanks for posting.

PS: for the topmost link I got a 404 error -- but the graphic on their error page is really cool!