First time flash off camera - DPChallenge Forums

05/15/2010 07:56:51 PM · #1

Well...first serious try though.

The two with the dark curtian to rear had the sb800 in back of the subjects at 1/50. I used the built in D90 flash for trigger and fill.

The bright window shot was lit from the left and used the built in for front fill.

See here

chromeydome

Nikon D7000

05/15/2010 08:11:55 PM · #2

Nice.

I assume you are using the CLS? Are you controlling manual or ttl? I prefer to use manual control, even via CLS, as ttl will tend to compensate and give you roughly the same result even if you move the light back and forth--and you can get some really good control and effects by changing the light to be closer or farther away (especially if you have an umbrella, etc to soften it up first). You can use the inverse square law to work for you when not using ttl.

You might try setting your d90 to be command only, not contributing flash to the shot. Then try the 800 at 45 degrees to the side (either side from the camera) and 45 degrees above horizontal to the subject. If you can reverse it and bounce it off a white foam core poster board, or a white wall, sheet, etc., you can get a simulated softbox look. White foam cores make nice fill reflectors, too :-) Just some more fun things to play with now that you are using the 800 off-camera (it is addictive!) :-)

Message edited by author 2010-05-15 20:14:12.

05/15/2010 08:14:44 PM · #3

I used commander to fire sb800 but had both on manual adjust. The SB800 was about 1/2 I think...the on cam flash was about 1/16 or so. Thanks for the tips...I'll surely try them!

Originally posted by chromeydome:

Nice.

I assume you are using the CLS? Are you controlling manual or ttl?

You might try setting your d90 to be command only, not contributing flash to the shot. Then try the 800 at 45 degrees to the side (either side from the camera) and 45 degrees above horizontal to the subject. If you can reverse it and bounce it off a white foam core poster board, or a white wall, sheet, etc., you can get a simulated softbox look. White foam cores make nice fill reflectors, too :-) Just some more fun things to play with now that you are using the 800 off-camera (it is addictive!) :-)

05/15/2010 10:31:49 PM · #4

I've seen posts that say strobes placed camera left at 40 and 60 degrees. Can you tell me where the "degrees" are counted off from?..ie; where is "zero" degrees?

Originally posted by chromeydome:

chromeydome

Nikon D7000

05/15/2010 11:12:49 PM · #5

for left, right, just on a 45 deg angle off the axis from your camera to the subject. For the "above", similar: from your subject's POV, they should have to look up at a 45 degree above the horizon (above level).

So, the closer in you can work (if you have a softbox or umbrella on your 800) then your lightstand can be lower. If you are too far back with it, it would have to be extended up further.

These degrees are imprecise, not magic, and not rigid. It is a good place to start from sometimes, and then adjust as necessary. Be aware of the difference when you move the light closer, for example: if you were at 45 deg with the light at 10 ft away, then you move it to 5 ft, well, your shadows will change a lot unless you lower it down onto the 45 again. Likewise, if you don't change the light, but your subject stands up (or sits, depending on which they were already doing :), then shadows will change again.

I recommend getting a "convertible" umbrella (~ $40): can go from white reflector to white shoot thru. That, plus a couple of white foam cores (or an inexpensive 5 in 1 reflector set) for fill reflection can get you some really pleasing results. An unmodified (softened, diffused) speedlight is just a bit harsh for portraiture.

Bringing the umbrella as close as possible (just out of frame) and dialing the light down as may be needed, is a really pleasing, soft, flattering light for people.

You can also put the umbrella dead center (not off to the side) but up above and pointing at the bridge of the nose, then prop up your foam core below and in front of them, angled back slightly toward them: this gives you a single light approach to the classic clamshell beauty lighting.

Shallow dof is a nice thing to use in these sorts of shots, too, sometimes. Try the 3-4 range, (or 2.8 if you have it, but watch your focus carefully--get the eye(s) in focus).

Going shallow and/or using the light close have a side benefit: you can dial down the speedlight, saving battery, but also allowing a much faster recycle time.

When I was finally taught how to use my SB800, I used a single shoot thru umbrella and two white foam core boards (one on the opposite side, one down in front) to get the best portrait of my father that had ever been taken. I'd post it, but he doesn't want to be on the intertubes :-)

You can do an awful lot of good stuff with a single speedlight/umbrella and a reflector or two.

ETA: just checked your profile--you have good glass! Have fun with the wider apertures!

Message edited by author 2010-05-15 23:17:41.

05/15/2010 11:40:36 PM · #6

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chromeydome

Nikon D7000