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10/25/2004 06:47:03 PM · #1 |
im sure i could find the answers to my questions if i read 100 different threads, just need a few quick answers, sorry.
what exactly does a long exposure do for lets say a sunset or those night shots of buildings.
i do know with waterfalls you get the fuzzy look, and with a strobe you get those pictures with multiple poses. thats all i know
when i try to do a long exposure, the entire image is white or black. does there have to be a certain condition to take take these shots. or a certain setting on your camera to prevent this. i usually answer my own questions by just trying it but i cant get it to work.
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10/25/2004 06:51:03 PM · #2 |
The longer the exposure the more chance you have of capturing motion blur with moving objects. You get light streaks from passing vehicles etc.
You have to remember that you must balance a long shutter speed with the proper aperture opening to get the correct exposure. If you don't do this you will come up with images that are very much over exposed, completely white.
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10/25/2004 06:53:08 PM · #3 |
| People use filters like Neutral Density, Circular Polarizers to compensate for extra lighting. This could be the reason you are not getting the same results. |
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10/25/2004 06:53:44 PM · #4 |
If you're doing a long exposure you'll usually have to play around in manual exposure mode to find the settings that properly expose the image. For night stuff, you may find 15sec @ f/22 to be a reasonable starting point.
Sunsets won't look much different or buildings, unless something is moving in the frame. Digital cameras have a pretty linear scale of exposure so as you increase the shutter time from the 'normal' exposure, and increase the f-stop for every stop of shutter speed you gain, you will have the same exposure as a result. |
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10/25/2004 06:54:11 PM · #5 |
so should the aperature be more open or more closed. or does it depend
on the situation |
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10/25/2004 06:55:52 PM · #6 |
| Oh, I noticed you have an F828, I don't know how small the aperture goes on it, but if you're trying to get a slow shutter speed while still getting a proper exposure, you'll want to use the lowest ISO and highest f-stop (most closed aperture) you can. Also, like faidoi said, you can use a neutral density filter to darken the image even more so a longer exposure can be made without overexposing. |
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10/25/2004 06:56:24 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by riotspyne:
so should the aperature be more open or more closed. or does it depend
on the situation |
The longer the shutter is open the more light is getting to the sensor so to compensate you have to make the aperture smaller to let less light in. The smallest aperture is identified by the largest number. On most prosumer cameras this is f8 or f11.
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10/25/2004 06:58:29 PM · #8 |
| thank you everyone i think im starting to get it. |
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10/25/2004 07:00:23 PM · #9 |
I like long exposures at night, not just for the blurring effect of motion, but also because it tends to give the photo a "look" that might not be seen by the naked eye.
For instance, in these two pictures:  ,
There is kind of a "glow" about the city. If you looked at this city at night, you would probably notice all the city lights and it would be impressive and all. But somehow a long exposure gives it a little different "feel".
To me, photography should reveal new ways of looking at things. Like a closeup of a flower. Or a new angle at a building. Or freezing a specific "moment" in time (like the catch of a football). Things that, if you truly paid attention you might notice... but might never dwell on in the way you can when looking at a photograph.
As for getting proper results... You'll need to adjust your aperature (or use filters) so that with a long exposure you still let in the appropriate amount of light.
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10/25/2004 07:04:43 PM · #10 |
Considering that you are dealing with Digital you can find out very easy.
Set your camera on Shutter Priority
Place your camera on something solid. (Like a tripod) Pointing towards a candle in a dark room.
Start by setting your shutter to 1/2000th sec. then go down
1/1000th, 1/500th, 1/250th, 1/100, 1/40, 1/30, 1/20, 1/10, .5 sec, 1 sec, until you get to 30 sec.
You will notice that you can capture the candle and stop the flame at 1/2000th sec. where as you see a white (motion blured) blob of a flame at 1 sec.
You will notice that the aperture will adjust accordingly to suite the exposure.
Message edited by author 2004-10-25 19:06:41.
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10/25/2004 07:33:00 PM · #11 |
wow, thanks everyone for all your suggestions.
I will try that tonight ram21. |
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10/25/2004 08:30:33 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
For instance, in these two pictures: , |
Those are really beautiful!! |
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10/25/2004 09:45:27 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by digistoune:
Those are really beautiful!! |
Thanks! :-)
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