Layers in Photoshop - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

09/06/2004 05:31:58 PM · #1

My apologies if this should have been in the Q&A forum but since it's specific to photoshop...

I have a dumb question about layers in PS. Let's say I have a pic that I want to process. I know, what a shocker! Here's a list of the first things I would do...
1)Duplicate
2)Crop for desired size, composition, whatever
3)Add an adjustment layer for levels

Ok, from there I'm not sure what to do. Lets say I wanted to do some dodging and burning on a new layer, some selective sharpening on another layer, and so on. What is the right procedure for creating new editing layers beyond the levels adjustment layer? Does this make sense?

Thanks in advance for the help!

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

09/06/2004 05:35:33 PM · #2

For things like dodging and burning, USM I duplicate the background and do my adjustments on the duplicate. This allows you to start over if you don't like the results. I also create a duplicate for any cloning I need. In the stack I make sure the adjustment layers are on top especially if they are applied in normal mode.

oskar

Canon EOS-5D Mark III

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II

09/06/2004 05:36:39 PM · #3

I think you just make new adjustment layers and place them below the others. That is what I do and it seems to work fine, but I'm no expert (not yet)

09/06/2004 05:37:52 PM · #4

duplicate the layer you want to make adjustments to (or stamp a new layer from the visible layers if you have more than one), make the adjustments to that layer, set the blending you want and then merge them together or stamp them to a new layer as you wish.

David

09/06/2004 05:49:28 PM · #5

Originally posted by Britannica:

or stamp a new layer from the visible layers if you have more than one
David

Stamp a new layer? I'm unfamiliar with that term - could you elaborate? If I understand you correctly, I think that's what I'm after. The new layer that I create should have the previous changes intact while keeping all the other layers intact (for possible later editing). Once the new layer is created, it should be below the levels adjustment layer, right?

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

09/06/2004 06:56:13 PM · #6

bump :-)

dacrazyrn

Nikon D300

09/06/2004 07:09:07 PM · #7

Stamping is done by creating a new blank layer on the top of the Layers Palette, then holding down the Option/Alt button and then going to the pop out menu on the layers palette and choosing merge visbile. Whala! Merged them all into one. This is a method dexcribed as non destructive PS by Kevin Ames, anyway. that way you can go back and fix or try something else. I use it ALL the time now.
I keep the new STAMPED layer as the topmost and the edits below, kind of like a progression to how I got to that point. I usually will go and toss the previously stamped versions before a save and sometimes even the edits if it is exactly how I want.
This can make some large files, but saving a printable that is flattened as TIFF and leaving the "altered negative" with the edits, in PSD format is a good practice, even though the size is large (why I throw the previously stamped layers out).

Message edited by author 2004-09-06 19:14:21.

09/06/2004 08:38:10 PM · #8

Originally posted by digistoune:

Originally posted by Britannica:
or stamp a new layer from the visible layers if you have more than one
David

Stamp a new layer? I'm unfamiliar with that term - could you elaborate? If I understand you correctly, I think that's what I'm after. The new layer that I create should have the previous changes intact while keeping all the other layers intact (for possible later editing). Once the new layer is created, it should be below the levels adjustment layer, right?

What Tracy said works for the Mac. :p

From the PS CS help file:

To stamp layers:

Position the layer you want to stamp to above the layer you want to stamp from, and make sure that the visibility for both items is enabled.
Select the top item in the pair.
Press Ctrl+Alt+E (Windows) or Command+Option+E (Mac OS).
The selected layer is stamped with the contents of the other layer.

To stamp linked layers:

Select one of the linked layers, and press Ctrl+Alt+E (Windows) or Command+Option+E (Mac OS). The selected layer is stamped with the contents from the other linked layers.

To stamp all visible layers:

Select the layer or layer set that you want to contain the new contents, and press Shift+Ctrl+Alt+E (Windows) or Shift+Command+Option+E (Mac OS).

alternately, you can hold down Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac OS), and choose Layer > Merge Visible. The modified Merge command merges all the visible data into the current target layer.

David

Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f2.8D

09/06/2004 08:55:12 PM · #9

Okay, thanks for the clarification. Tracy, that non-destructive method you're talking about is exactly what I'm going for and why I want all these layers. So just to make sure I understand correctly, if I have an image that I want to make multiple corrections to I would have a levels adjustment layer, a layer for B&D, a layer for cloning, and a layer for a diffused glow. I like to start with levels or curves so that would be the first layer (after the locked background). All subsequent layers would be stacked below that adjustment layer, right?

Koriyama

Nikon D200

09/06/2004 11:40:45 PM · #10

In PS7, the snapshot facility offers an easier way of stamping. Just press the snapshot button and you've got a version to that point.

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

09/07/2004 12:00:48 AM · #11

Originally posted by digistoune:

Think of layers as transparencies stacked on a light source, one on top of another. When working on a layer, all visible layers below it are in the view while working.

So, if you want the new layer to affect the image after the levels or curves, the new layer would have to be above that one.

David

dacrazyrn

Nikon D300

09/07/2004 12:19:34 AM · #12

David has it there.
The way I learned it through Photoshop CS-The Art of Photgraphing Women by Kevin Ames, is that, for example, you have your background image. Save it with a new name. Start by doing an adjustment layer for Levels. Then create an NEW empty layer (that button down at the botom), choose that layer and then Stamp it (Hold Option or Alt and pop out menu to Merge Visible). Now you can do another adjustment layer above that one. Stamp it.. Cont on. If you wanted to do a mask, then Duplicate the layer you want (last stamped most likely) then the button for Mask layer at the bottom of the layers palette. And repeat the process to get to the Stamp.
Another example for like lightening eyes. I use a Stamped layer, then make an adjustment layer for Curves above it. Press OK without doing anything. The Mask level for this Curve layer should be chosen (and white background). Change it to Black backround (press x so the background shows black and then Command-Delete). Use an appropriate sized white brush to go around inside the iris and not pupil. I do just one and then go Back to the Curves layer and adjust it to what you like. Finish the eyes with the white brush. Then you can Stamp it and have the Curves and other layer combined into one.
OUCH! My fingers!

Message edited by author 2004-09-07 00:21:20.

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

09/07/2004 02:18:15 AM · #13

Tracy,
From the way it sounds you use a stamp between each adjustment layer you use. This is different from how I approach it and I was wondering what your reasons were.

To make this easier I'll use an example. Say I wanted to make a levels adjustment, a saturation adjustment and then sharpen. From your discription it sounds like you would proceed with; levels adjustment layer, stamp, saturation adjustment layer, stamp and finally sharpen. I would forgo the first stamp.

My reasoning is the adjustment layers do not need to know what is below them, they appear to affect the pixels without actually changing them until merged (either by flattening or stamping). The view on the screen is strictly for my benefit in being able to see what I am adjusting. Placing a stamp of the visible layers on top of what is visible does not change what I can see, so I am not seeing a use for it. With sharpen it must know what the value of the pixel is in order to make the change (and makes the change to an actual pixel), so it needs the stamp to know what values to change the pixels to. I hope I made that clear.

Is my understanding of what you do correct? Is there something I am missing that makes a stamp between adjustment layers (curves, levels, saturation, etc) useful? Thanks.

Originally posted by dacrazyrn:

OUCH! My fingers!

You get use to it after a while. ;)

David

/edit: content

Message edited by author 2004-09-07 02:21:04.

dacrazyrn

Nikon D300

09/07/2004 04:36:01 AM · #14

That is how the guy teaches you should do things. I don't adhere to it strictly (Try). I will Stamp after I make 2 or more adjustment layers though, to combine on to a single "plate." The reason he teaches this is mostly because of the many other things, such as setting paths and smoothing skin, eye lightening, tooth whitening, healing, patching, and cloning. It is so you have the preogressive steps to move backwards from and be able to go back and change/redo it.