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11/25/2014 12:52:48 PM · #1 |
i've been meaning to ask this question for a while and Wendy's thread reminded me.
sometimes i like to shoot wide open or close to it and shooting with strobes that not possible since i cant lower my shutter past 160 or 200.
even turning the power all the way down on the strobes and dealing with a small room i cant move the lights back far enough. an ND filter is out of the question since it messes with the autofocus indoors. is there a way to cut the strobes power with an ND gel or some other method?
im using two AB800s and PLM umbrellas with softbox covers. |
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11/25/2014 01:04:27 PM · #2 |
A couple of thoughts come to mind. Adding a grid to the strobe (20 or even 10 to really reduce the light), or if you have a modeling light, use those only. You might also try bouncing the light off the wall instead of aiming it at the subject.
There might be other techie solutions, but these came to mind immediately. |
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11/25/2014 01:06:59 PM · #3 |
Someone in that other thread mentioned using a "baffle" with a softbox and was told that it would cut the light too much, so you might look into that.
Seems to me any kind of netting or mesh placed in front of the light should cut its power -- maybe try one or more layers of pantyhose or window screen. You could use an embroidery hoop if you want to stretch it taut, and a couple of hardware store-type clamps to hold it in place. |
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11/25/2014 01:18:20 PM · #4 |
Physically cutting down on the light may not work if the system is set up for TTL metering, since the strobes would just increase output to make up for the loss of light.
If the strobes have a way to manually set them for the iso you are using, you can try "fooling" them by setting the iso in the strobe settings higher than the iso in the camera.
The other option that I can think of would be to shoot with the strobes in "manual" and reduce the output by using neutral jells, or shoot through a layer of styrofoam. Try splitting a styro cup lengthwise and wrap the piece of styro over the strobe to reduce it's output. This may not work if your modeling lights produce a lot of heat.
Since the strobes fire their whole output for the shot in a very short burst, typically less than 1/10000 sec, changing the shutter speeds is not going to make any difference. If you can shoot at smaller apertures or lower iso's it may help.
Message edited by author 2014-11-25 13:20:29. |
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11/25/2014 01:40:41 PM · #5 |
| Rosco Cinegels #3415, #3402, #3403 and #3404 are ND gels that provide 1/2, 1, 2 and 3 stops of light reduction without effect on the light's color. They come in 20in x 24in sheets and 48in x 25ft rolls. You can use multiple layers if needed. |
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11/25/2014 01:44:32 PM · #6 |
| Hang a white sheet over it for another layer of baffle? |
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11/25/2014 08:24:15 PM · #7 |
i think the problem is the PLM. even if you're using the soft white one, that is a boatload of light, even with the softbox cover. these things should be called "parabolic light MULTIPLIERS". the extreme silver model easily overpowers the sun.
on the other hand, a true softbox will easily work in a small space. i shot this
in a very small space with 2 AB1600s, each outfitted with a 47" foldable octabox with no grid.
1/250 f/11 iso200
these were about 1/4 power. |
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11/25/2014 08:31:31 PM · #8 |
| get big ass softbox, like super big, like a super big ass soft box, like something big enough to use as a camping tent. |
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11/25/2014 09:10:43 PM · #9 |
| Is that like, a softbox only used for shooting asses? |
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11/25/2014 10:02:04 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by MadMan2k:
Is that like, a softbox only used for shooting asses? |
Kardashians |
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11/26/2014 06:23:28 AM · #11 |
thanks skip. maybe my issue is the PLM and i should look at some other modifiers. alien bees have nd gels, but i cant put them over the strobe withthe baffle and clips or a gel holder and use that in conjunction with the speedring for the PLM.
i guess i'll be asking santa for some softboxes or maybe a shoot through as a cheaper option
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11/26/2014 08:00:43 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:
Physically cutting down on the light may not work if the system is set up for TTL metering, since the strobes would just increase output to make up for the loss of light.
If the strobes have a way to manually set them for the iso you are using, you can try "fooling" them by setting the iso in the strobe settings higher than the iso in the camera.
The other option that I can think of would be to shoot with the strobes in "manual" and reduce the output by using neutral jells, or shoot through a layer of styrofoam. Try splitting a styro cup lengthwise and wrap the piece of styro over the strobe to reduce it's output. This may not work if your modeling lights produce a lot of heat.
Since the strobes fire their whole output for the shot in a very short burst, typically less than 1/10000 sec, changing the shutter speeds is not going to make any difference. If you can shoot at smaller apertures or lower iso's it may help. |
He's using studio lights (Alien Bees), not speedlights. No TTL and too big for a styrofoam cup. |
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