Mounting a photograph - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM

02/21/2013 09:13:41 AM · #1

I have to print a 20x30 and get it mounted on foamcore pretty quickly for a client. I'll admit to having never done this before. Can I get some help on how this might be accomplished? What would you put it on with? Thanks.

Matt

thriftyphotographer

Canon EOS-600D/T3i Rebel

02/21/2013 09:34:20 AM · #2

If it needs to survive long term you should dry mount to styrene or gatorboard. As far as I know a lab has to do it unless you've got a buddy with a heat press in his garage. I've used spray adhesives on foam core before and they always end up bubbling.

Message edited by author 2013-02-21 09:35:06.

Skip

Canon EOS-1D X

02/21/2013 09:39:53 AM · #3

you can get foamboard and spray-on glue from any craftstore, especially those that have framing services (like AC Moore).

your best bet is to get a frameshop to do it. it'll probably cost $10-20 bucks, but they'll do it right and they can probably do it while you wait.

i think setzler used to have a tutorial that included mounting as part of the process, but i can't find it. maybe touch base with him directly.

Message edited by author 2013-02-21 09:40:28.

Spork99

OM System OM-1

02/21/2013 10:02:07 AM · #4

Are you mounting it with the edges flush or with a border? In any case, I use spray mount, but you have to be really careful about over spray. I've used it a lot, so I'd just do it, but in the beginning, I messed up more than a few prints. It's also not archival if that's a concern. For flush mount, just mount the print square with two adjacent, square sides of the board and trim with a utility knife and a metal straightedge.

02/21/2013 10:06:02 AM · #5

Thanks guys, I already have spray adhesive for photos, but was worried about bubbles. This is not needing to be archival, I've created a poster for a team that is heading to the state tournament and they want to display it while there. I think I'll try the adhesive and hope I can keep the bubbles to a min and trim the rest. Thanks.

Matt

Spork99

OM System OM-1

02/21/2013 10:17:05 AM · #6

Once you get the first corner started, use a soft roller to work out the air bubbles as you lay down the print. The last part to get stuck should be the corner diagonally opposite the starting corner.

02/21/2013 10:31:38 AM · #7

Thanks Spork! I'll give it a go when I pick up the print....if it ever stops sleeting and snowing!

Spork99

OM System OM-1

Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L II USM Lens

02/21/2013 01:01:43 PM · #8

The weather's crappy here too...

You might want to think about a practice run on a smaller print and a scrap of foam board just to get the hang of it before you go for the gold.

skewsme

Canon EOS-6D

02/21/2013 01:07:05 PM · #9

If you blow it and you still have a week before you need it ... ProDPI will print and mount for you - their turnaround time is terrific.

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

02/21/2013 01:14:31 PM · #10

I have to deliver it Saturday for the Sunday Tournament. I just took the photos last night. This is one of the groups I do T&I for every year and they called and asked me this last minute. LOL

BrennanOB

Canon EOS-1D Mark II

02/21/2013 05:03:10 PM · #11

In the old days of architectural presentations I used a lot of spray mount and foam core.
Not all spray adhesives are interchangeable. I like to use 3M Spray Mount Artist's Adhesive, it has good tack, is workable for a pretty long time and doesn't yellow the paper as quickly as some others.
Let the spray dry for half a minute, it drys a bit and will give you the same stick, but penetrate the fibers of the artwork less so it the print will degrade more slowly.
I like to tilt the foamcore and the print up to introduce the edges on a hard surface to align the top edge, and then bend the print to attach the print loosely. Smooth it down and cut the slop of the other three edges. Mounting a print to a backer that is the exact same size is impossible to do. I use a framer's square to guide the utility knife for a clean 90 degree cut cutting down onto plywood that you can over cut on without worrying about scoring.
Use velvet or some soft cloth to work the edge of your hand or a rigid tool over the print from corner to corner always working in the same direction. Letting the spray dry just a bit will trap fewer bubbles than a wet mount, and you can more easily work them out since the contact is a series of flecks of adhesive rather than a puddle that can entrap bubbles.

Message edited by author 2013-02-21 17:03:58.

Techo

Canon EOS-7D