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09/07/2012 03:44:13 PM · #1 |
I think mounted prints are the best (I order them from WHCC). I've gotten them on styrene (2mm thick) and matboard (1/4" thick). I like how they are perfectly flat!
I think the mounted prints would be better for regular framing than unmounted, because the regular prints don't always lie completely flat, or sometimes they have a small area that's not flat. (Yes, perhaps if I were a better framer, that wouldn't happen!)
But if I wanted to use the mounted print in a frame, I haven't figured out is how I would frame it without printing the final size (with a border for the matte).
In other words...I want a 12x18 print, mounted. But I want to frame it 18x24. If I print it at 12x18, how do you deal with the thickness of the 12x18 print plus backing board, and then use the 18x24 frame backing board? Or do you have to print with the same size border as the matte, so it's already the final size. (I've done this already for prints I've sold where the end-user wants to do their own framing).
Anyone know? Or have better ideas?! |
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09/07/2012 04:30:33 PM · #2 |
A professional framer could answer your questions. I too dislike intensely the wibbles caused by unmounted, usually large, prints. However if you print on heavier paper you can eliminate a lot of wibble; as well, my local framer seems to be able to handle smaller prints on lighter paper without mounting by adding to the thickness of the backboard.
Good luck, and please share your findings.
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09/07/2012 06:19:01 PM · #3 |
| Is the final product under glass? |
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09/07/2012 07:16:59 PM · #4 |
Mount the print to a board that's the size of your frame opening. You can cover 1/8"-1/16" of the print by making the opening a bit smaller than the actual print. the thickness of the actual print is negligible when framing. You can add a border to the print and size the opening in the mat to exactly that dimension, but that will be tricky.
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09/07/2012 09:30:19 PM · #5 |
Note this is a general process question; right now, I don't have any mounted prints to frame...it's just that I'd prefer to order them mounted, but then I don't know how to deal with sandwiching the 2mm or 1/4" matboard between the front mat and the backing board. The gap it would leave, I would assume, would make it so any pressure on the back (such as the pressure from the frame edges and clips--metal framing) would bend the backing. Normally, of course, that doesn't happen because the print is just a thin sheet of photo paper, and the backing board effectively then is "against" the front mat. But that wouldn't be true the print on a 1/4" mat board, and maybe even the 2mm styrene would be too thick as well.
Pamb: The final product will have glass in front of the mat, per typical photo framing.
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09/07/2012 09:41:57 PM · #6 |
| I suspect the clips or nails or whatever hold in the backing board can accommodate an additional 2mm of thickness. But, why not take someone's earlier advice and take one of your previously-made/mounted prints to a framing shop and ask for an estimate and recommendations for future preparation? |
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09/07/2012 09:42:27 PM · #7 |
| I let my framer mount them. |
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09/07/2012 11:01:33 PM · #8 |
Mount to the size you want ie 8x12, cut mat to size you want. Cut backing board to mat & glass size. Cut spacers from the same depth material as your mounted print ie 1/4". Assemble as fo lows, behind the mat, secured with double sided tape:
First piece across the top of your print, from edge to edge
Next two pieces as columns down either side, secured
Last piece across the bottom, between the columns.
You will probably have to use flexible framers points in the rear of the frame rather than the rebate, covered by tape.
I'm only on my phone atm, but can give further explanation with diagrams if required at a later date. |
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09/07/2012 11:13:39 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by pamb:
Mount to the size you want ie 8x12, cut mat to size you want. Cut backing board to mat & glass size. Cut spacers from the same depth material as your mounted print ie 1/4". Assemble as fo lows, behind the mat, secured with double sided tape:
First piece across the top of your print, from edge to edge
Next two pieces as columns down either side, secured
Last piece across the bottom, between the columns.
You will probably have to use flexible framers points in the rear of the frame rather than the rebate, covered by tape.
I'm only on my phone atm, but can give further explanation with diagrams if required at a later date. |
Ah, I hadn't thought about using more matboard as spacers....that would work! Thanks! |
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09/08/2012 07:25:34 AM · #10 |
Neil, when you pack out the rear of the mat, make sure your spacers are arranged like this:
==========
II print here II
II print here II
II print here II
II print here II
II print here II
II print here II
II print here II
II ======== II
One right across the top, from frame edge to frame edge, spanning across the top of your print
Two as columns, either side
One filling in the bit between the columns at the base.
This arrangement helps the longevity of the framed item in that it helps prevent sagging of the individual components.
Message edited by author 2012-09-08 07:28:44. |
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09/08/2012 11:20:34 AM · #11 |
I use an open frame, no glass, and glazer points to secure, you can get them at art supply stores, there is a tool that looks like a screwdriver with a notch on the tip to push the points in
Link |
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