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01/17/2012 10:32:45 PM · #26 |
I shoot a lot at night, and one of the best suggestions yet for getting test shots is to set iso very high, like 3200, and aperture wide open, then shoot a few, checking the results until it looks about right, then reduce iso, and adjust aperture or shutter speed accordingly. It saves a lot of time waiting for long test exposures.
I have also noticed that when shooting at night, that correct exposure looks pretty bright in the LCD out where it's dark. It's sometimes handy to use the "blinkies" to blink highlights if you are shooting a wall or something with a lot of white on it.
If you want the sky to look nice and deep blue when shooting where there is a sodium vapor light orange haze in the sky, then use incandescent white balance and the sky will be a marvelous blue.
For those who have the "live view" feature, you can go to live view, zoom in (with the LCD) on anything bright, like a street light or lighted window that is in the range where you want to focus, then zoom in with the LCD to fine tune the focus. I focus astro shots that way when using my telescopes.
It used to be difficult back in the days of film, but it's easy now.
Message edited by author 2012-01-17 22:33:40.
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01/18/2012 01:43:34 AM · #27 |
Originally posted by snaffles:
Oh OK thanks for the info on mirror lockup, SS...I guess the redhead's been trying to brainwash me! Damn Canon shooters! ;-) |
Well, he does shoot full frame, so there's a bit more reason for him to worry about it, in any case. The function is certainly useful but is a bit more limited in scope than many think. On the bright side, doing it regardless doesn't HARM anything, other than making you push your remote more times.
ETA: I also forgot to mention earlier that the longer your lens, the more you can potentially suffer from mirror vibration. That's important to note.
Message edited by author 2012-01-18 01:48:52. |
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01/18/2012 03:27:53 AM · #28 |
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:
I shoot a lot at night, and one of the best suggestions yet for getting test shots is to set iso very high, like 3200, and aperture wide open, then shoot a few, checking the results until it looks about right, then reduce iso, and adjust aperture or shutter speed accordingly. It saves a lot of time waiting for long test exposures.
I have also noticed that when shooting at night, that correct exposure looks pretty bright in the LCD out where it's dark. It's sometimes handy to use the "blinkies" to blink highlights if you are shooting a wall or something with a lot of white on it.
If you want the sky to look nice and deep blue when shooting where there is a sodium vapor light orange haze in the sky, then use incandescent white balance and the sky will be a marvelous blue.
For those who have the "live view" feature, you can go to live view, zoom in (with the LCD) on anything bright, like a street light or lighted window that is in the range where you want to focus, then zoom in with the LCD to fine tune the focus. I focus astro shots that way when using my telescopes.
It used to be difficult back in the days of film, but it's easy now. |
F&*$ S^%£ B**11*$%s
damn should have messed with white balance i was getting awful orange glow, stored to memory now though :) |
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