Paul C Buff Triggers - DPChallenge Forums

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM for Nikon

12/14/2011 07:16:51 PM · #1

Anyone have them, user them, like/dislike them or can tell me the difference from the CSR+ and the CSR???

kgeary

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

12/14/2011 07:27:03 PM · #2

Originally posted by Dirt_Diver:

Anyone have them, user them, like/dislike them or can tell me the difference from the CSR+ and the CSR???

I have them. I had Skyports before but sold them to buy the PCB triggers. I like the fact that they use AAs instead of a rechargeable internal battery. They're extremely reliable (rarely misfire, if ever). Only problem I have with them is that I use velcro to attach them to my strobes so they don't hang and the velcro on the battery door pulls the battery door off when I pull the trigger off a strobe half the time. Other than that I love them.

The CSR+ is only necessary if you have PCB strobes that can be controlled via the Cyber Commander. The Cyber Commander isn't the easiest thing in the world to set up and use. But if you want full remote control over your PCB lights then it's the way to go. I have the Cyber Commander but I'm typically running and gunning so I rarely use it. It doubles as a light meter though and that's a great thing.

Message edited by author 2011-12-14 19:27:08.

12/14/2011 07:28:09 PM · #3

- Yup have them and yup like them. VERY reliable.
- The plus models (battery and electric) can be plugged into a b400/b800/wl stuff to make them somewhat workable on the commander. That allows remote control of some functions from the commander - so you don't have to dig the thing out of a softbox to change power or alike :-).
- The non plus batteries are great for hotshoe flashes where you need a fire now thing... although they would work on AB's or whatever as well... just without the control of the plus models on AB/WL stuff.
- I do NOT have the commander but it's a light meter combined with a remote control for AB/WL and plus or einsteins with the module. I know the einsteins have more functionality then the ab/wl with the plus trigger but you would have to hit their web site for the details.

12/14/2011 07:53:16 PM · #4

Well I do have the AB Ring flash and I had considered a few White Lightning X1600's or the AB1600. Granted they are not the Einstein's which the CSR's slide inside of them but at the same time I like how when you stick to one company all their stuff works well together...

Right now and for the last 2+ years I've been using the cowboy studio strobes from ebay and they were good at first but now they are misfiring, or I need to charge the batteries before every use... I don't care for the transmitter or the receivers and I really don't want to spend the money for pocket wizards which I know are better but to me it seems very over priced right now.

What kind of range do you guys get with the CC's?

12/14/2011 07:54:56 PM · #5

Should I just buy the plus's in case I decide to go with the CC in the future?

12/14/2011 08:02:21 PM · #6

Originally posted by Dirt_Diver:

What kind of range do you guys get with the CC's?

Put it this way... If my light is too far away to trigger with CC's then someone stole it :-) Seriously... range is great and I have never run out of range... but you can put the recievers into repeater mode (chailed so the received and pass on the signal) if you need more range (I expect you lose some speed doing that but don't know).

The ONLY issue I have had is a lot of studios already have PW's on their mounted stuff but otherwise I love them.

12/14/2011 08:04:47 PM · #7

Originally posted by Dirt_Diver:

Should I just buy the plus's in case I decide to go with the CC in the future?

If you have AB/WL stuff that is compat then I would... cost you like $20 more so worth it (that's what I did anyway and I don't own any AB/WL... I have einsteins)... They are slightly larger then the non + models... but they have a thing to hang them off strobes unlike the non plus models :-)

12/14/2011 08:05:26 PM · #8

I have a CSR+ for my each of my AB and a CSRB for my 580 and I use the CyberCommander to fire them. I went with the CSR+ because I just didn't feel like dealing with more batteries than necessary. As robs and kgeary pointed out, they are reliable. Also, compared to other power management systems, they are extremely affordable.

My only real beef is with the documentation. I had to actually get their tech support people to walk me through setting up my CyberCommander. The device itself is non-intuitive and the setup guide is simply terrible. From what I understand, they are "working on it." Once you get a handle on it, though, it's a snap.

The only other thing that it doesn't easily do is trigger a camera. Unlike Pocket Wizard IIs, which are transceivers (capable of receiving and transmitting), the PCB units are one or the other. This means that you need a separate pair to remotely fire your body. You'd hold one transmitter and plug a receiver into your body, then put another transmitter in the hotshoe with receivers on your strobes (set to a different frequency than the one used to fire the body).

In addition to the above, I'm also in love with my Vagabond Mini. It is flippin sweet. I shot this yesterday afternoon about noon-ish, at least a quarter-mile from any available electricity. I may be wrong, but I don't think my 580 could have produced enough light to over-power the midday sun as well as the AB1600.

12/14/2011 09:05:20 PM · #9

Awesome guys thanks I'll place my order tomorrow morning for the plus'...

And yes skip I too have the vagabond mini... LOVE IT. I actually plug a surge strip into it and power 4 different strobes. I just bought it about 2 months ago and haven't REALLY put it to the test yet but from the small amount of time that I have used it I plan on buying a couple more.

Message edited by author 2011-12-14 21:09:09.

12/14/2011 09:13:22 PM · #10

Originally posted by Skip:

The only other thing that it doesn't easily do is trigger a camera. Unlike Pocket Wizard IIs, which are transceivers (capable of receiving and transmitting), the PCB units are one or the other. This means that you need a separate pair to remotely fire your body.

Do you men in sync with another camera? or maybe the remote camera having a flash? If you just after it to trigger a basic camera without a remote flash..... I have rigged it to do that with a cheap cable from flashzebra.com that forces the camera into a ready state then you use the receiver on that cable at the camera end and the trigger will shot the shutter.

Carl Zeiss 50mm ZE f/1.4 Planar T for Canon

12/14/2011 10:11:15 PM · #11

Originally posted by robs:

Originally posted by Skip:
The only other thing that it doesn't easily do is trigger a camera. Unlike Pocket Wizard IIs, which are transceivers (capable of receiving and transmitting), the PCB units are one or the other. This means that you need a separate pair to remotely fire your body.

Do you men in sync with another camera? or maybe the remote camera having a flash? If you just after it to trigger a basic camera without a remote flash..... I have rigged it to do that with a cheap cable from flashzebra.com that forces the camera into a ready state then you use the receiver on that cable at the camera end and the trigger will shot the shutter.

i'm just used to my pw system, just sticking them on whatever i need to fire, be it strobes or camera. it gives me a lot of flexibility to be able to shoot without being stuck behind (or within reach) of the body. i can still do it, attaching my pw to my body, and the cc to the hotshoe; it's just that i would prefer to do it without mix-and-match gear. the main thing for me with the PCB is the power management. otherwise, i probably would have kept throwing money at pocketwizards :?

yanko

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

12/14/2011 10:25:07 PM · #12

Originally posted by Skip:

In addition to the above, I'm also in love with my Vagabond Mini. It is flippin sweet.

I'll trade ya a Vagabond II. Not only does it power more lights but you can also get a good workout carrying that damn thing around.

12/15/2011 03:46:26 AM · #13

Originally posted by yanko:

Originally posted by Skip:
In addition to the above, I'm also in love with my Vagabond Mini. It is flippin sweet.

I'll trade ya a Vagabond II. Not only does it power more lights but you can also get a good workout carrying that damn thing around.

would ya really?! if i had the VII i could save a grand a year, dropping my YMCA membership!!

dang, ran the idea by the family and they nixed it; i just couldn't sell them on giving up the year-round swimming ;-)

------------------------

one more PCB item that i recently purchased, but haven't had the opportunity to fully exploit is a soft silver PLM with white diffuser fabric.

alanfreed

Nikon Z9

12/15/2011 09:48:45 AM · #14

While we're on the subject of the Vagabond II (which I have), do any of you know if it's ok to use it to power a LCD TV? I have a 32" TV that I occasionally use for presentations, and there have been cases where it would have been convenient to use the Vagabond as its power source, rather than running extension cords all over the place.

I've run this TV with my car's power inverter before without any trouble, but I'm hesitant to do anything that would potentially damage the Vagabond...

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM for Nikon

12/15/2011 10:37:32 AM · #15

Originally posted by alanfreed:

I wouldn't try it... when I got mine it said something about doing stuff like that kills it and makes a fully charged system less likely to last. It's good for large short blast of power but nothing constant...

If you have the $$$ to play around with let us know how it turns out haha.

kgeary

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

12/15/2011 10:49:47 AM · #16

Originally posted by alanfreed:

I think a Vagabond Mini would handle that job pretty well.

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

12/15/2011 11:18:52 AM · #17

Originally posted by kgeary:

Originally posted by alanfreed:
While we're on the subject of the Vagabond II (which I have), do any of you know if it's ok to use it to power a LCD TV? I have a 32" TV that I occasionally use for presentations, and there have been cases where it would have been convenient to use the Vagabond as its power source, rather than running extension cords all over the place.

I've run this TV with my car's power inverter before without any trouble, but I'm hesitant to do anything that would potentially damage the Vagabond...

I think a Vagabond Mini would handle that job pretty well.

i think you're both right. the VM was a complete design overhaul. it's probably worth a call, though: 1-800-443-5542

slickchik

OM System OM-1

12/23/2011 11:12:25 PM · #18

Originally posted by Skip:

Skip, tell me what kind of light modifier you used with your AB1600. I need to do golf pictures for a high school and would like to do something like you did here.

MattO

Nikon D4

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

12/24/2011 12:37:18 AM · #19

Originally posted by Skip:

Originally posted by robs:

Originally posted by Skip:
The only other thing that it doesn't easily do is trigger a camera. Unlike Pocket Wizard IIs, which are transceivers (capable of receiving and transmitting), the PCB units are one or the other. This means that you need a separate pair to remotely fire your body.

Do you men in sync with another camera? or maybe the remote camera having a flash? If you just after it to trigger a basic camera without a remote flash..... I have rigged it to do that with a cheap cable from flashzebra.com that forces the camera into a ready state then you use the receiver on that cable at the camera end and the trigger will shot the shutter.

i'm just used to my pw system, just sticking them on whatever i need to fire, be it strobes or camera. it gives me a lot of flexibility to be able to shoot without being stuck behind (or within reach) of the body. i can still do it, attaching my pw to my body, and the cc to the hotshoe; it's just that i would prefer to do it without mix-and-match gear. the main thing for me with the PCB is the power management. otherwise, i probably would have kept throwing money at pocketwizards :?

Skip I have one of these Flashzebra pretrigger cables he is referring to for Canon that I don't use since I moved to Nikon. I used it once on my canon before switching. You are welcome to it if you want it. Just send me a mailing address.

BTW I recently purchased a Vagabond Mini and love it as well. I didn't realize you were doing some off camera stuff! Cool. And Merry Christmas.

MattO

Nikon D4

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

12/24/2011 01:46:31 AM · #20

Originally posted by slickchik:

Originally posted by Skip:
I have a CSR+ for my each of my AB and a CSRB for my 580 and I use the CyberCommander to fire them. I went with the CSR+ because I just didn't feel like dealing with more batteries than necessary. As robs and kgeary pointed out, they are reliable. Also, compared to other power management systems, they are extremely affordable.

My only real beef is with the documentation. I had to actually get their tech support people to walk me through setting up my CyberCommander. The device itself is non-intuitive and the setup guide is simply terrible. From what I understand, they are "working on it." Once you get a handle on it, though, it's a snap.

The only other thing that it doesn't easily do is trigger a camera. Unlike Pocket Wizard IIs, which are transceivers (capable of receiving and transmitting), the PCB units are one or the other. This means that you need a separate pair to remotely fire your body. You'd hold one transmitter and plug a receiver into your body, then put another transmitter in the hotshoe with receivers on your strobes (set to a different frequency than the one used to fire the body).

In addition to the above, I'm also in love with my Vagabond Mini. It is flippin sweet. I shot this yesterday afternoon about noon-ish, at least a quarter-mile from any available electricity. I may be wrong, but I don't think my 580 could have produced enough light to over-power the midday sun as well as the AB1600.

Skip, tell me what kind of light modifier you used with your AB1600. I need to do golf pictures for a high school and would like to do something like you did here.

It looks unmodified to me. Bare strobe. To overpower the sun at midday like that even with a 1600 almost any modifier would reduce power enough that at any distance you wouldn't get the proper fill.

Message edited by author 2011-12-24 11:58:42.

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

12/25/2011 08:20:30 AM · #21

Originally posted by MattO:

Originally posted by slickchik:

Originally posted by Skip:
I have a CSR+ for my each of my AB and a CSRB for my 580 and I use the CyberCommander to fire them. I went with the CSR+ because I just didn't feel like dealing with more batteries than necessary. As robs and kgeary pointed out, they are reliable. Also, compared to other power management systems, they are extremely affordable.

My only real beef is with the documentation. I had to actually get their tech support people to walk me through setting up my CyberCommander. The device itself is non-intuitive and the setup guide is simply terrible. From what I understand, they are "working on it." Once you get a handle on it, though, it's a snap.

The only other thing that it doesn't easily do is trigger a camera. Unlike Pocket Wizard IIs, which are transceivers (capable of receiving and transmitting), the PCB units are one or the other. This means that you need a separate pair to remotely fire your body. You'd hold one transmitter and plug a receiver into your body, then put another transmitter in the hotshoe with receivers on your strobes (set to a different frequency than the one used to fire the body).

In addition to the above, I'm also in love with my Vagabond Mini. It is flippin sweet. I shot this yesterday afternoon about noon-ish, at least a quarter-mile from any available electricity. I may be wrong, but I don't think my 580 could have produced enough light to over-power the midday sun as well as the AB1600.

Skip, tell me what kind of light modifier you used with your AB1600. I need to do golf pictures for a high school and would like to do something like you did here.

It looks unmodified to me. Bare strobe. To overpower the sun at midday like that even with a 1600 almost any modifier would reduce power enough that at any distance you wouldn't get the proper fill.

Dead on,

MattO! Another consideration is wind. Even the slightest of breezes can send stuff flying, even when heavily sand-bagged. Umbrellas, softboxes, reflectors - all of these can and will act like sails. If there is any chance of air movement, you'll want to be very careful with what you attached to your lights; your best bet is to to make arrangements to have a person attached to anything that can catch the wind.

Originally posted by MattO:

BTW I recently purchased a Vagabond Mini and love it as well. I didn't realize you were doing some off camera stuff! Cool.

It's a game-changer, isn't it? Truly, it puts "portability" in "portable studio". The 580exII is fairly incredible, and capable of some pretty cool things - especially when paired with a remote. All the same, when you need that serious punch, nothing beats having a studio light out in the wild.

Originally posted by MattO:

pm'd ya! Thanks!!

Originally posted by MattO:

And Merry Christmas.

And a Merry Christmas to you, and to everyone else!

slickchik

OM System OM-1

12/25/2011 01:16:08 PM · #22

I did realize you wouldn't use an umbrella or softbox... It looked a little breezy to me but I think what I meant was did you use just a reflector or did you put a diffusion sock over the reflector. Sheesh, I could have just asked that question the first time :-)