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05/07/2011 03:15:23 AM · #1 |
Much has been discussed about the need for one's monitor to be calibrated correctly and one hopes that the people viewing your image also have a properly calibrated monitor so that they see exactly or at least very closely what you see and what you want them to see when viewing your image.
I came across 2 very good sites some time ago already that both have excellent visual tests and instructions to check whether your monitor is in fact calibrated correctly. I have posted them before but for the benefit of those who missed it I post it again.
The first one which has some very extensive tests is this one:
//www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
and then there is this one:
//www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html
Hoping there are folks here who find these 2 links helpful for them.
Regards
Fred
Ps. For Mac users....I use a Intel MacMini and have a monitor that is known to be set very bright at factory default, the Samsung Syncmaster 206BW. With the help of a fantastic and simple to use manual visual software program I calibrate my monitor by eye and I get it calibrated so accurately that when I check my images on an Eizo monitor calibrated professionally for graphics work at a friends advertising agency my images look the same on his monitor then on mine.
The software has a FREE version to try out and is called SuperCal. It is for Mac only. Do give it a try. It is really good and very, very accurate settings are possible with it. Here is the download link: //www.macupdate.com/app/mac/8142/supercal
The developers site with more info and downloads: //www.bergdesign.com/supercal/
Message edited by author 2011-05-07 03:18:20.
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05/07/2011 05:23:04 PM · #2 |
The Norman Koren site is one of the best I've ever seen for understanding and doing basic monitor calibration. When you don't have access to hardware calibration, go there.
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05/16/2011 08:48:17 PM · #3 |
My prints are still coming out dark.
My question is this: If I am calibrated to appropriately see the black and white squares, why are my prints dark?
The contrast, brightness and gamma are all correct, but my prints are dark.
I know it's not color space, but I've tried in sRGB and Adobe RGB.
Also, I've downloaded the monitor "proof" files to preview in Photoshop, and although it does affect the way the blacks look, it still does not make my prints bright enough.
What's the deal here? |
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05/16/2011 08:58:02 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by adigitalromance:
My prints are still coming out dark.
My question is this: If I am calibrated to appropriately see the black and white squares, why are my prints dark?
The contrast, brightness and gamma are all correct, but my prints are dark.
I know it's not color space, but I've tried in sRGB and Adobe RGB.
Also, I've downloaded the monitor "proof" files to preview in Photoshop, and although it does affect the way the blacks look, it still does not make my prints bright enough.
What's the deal here? |
Where or what are you using to print them? |
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05/16/2011 09:22:04 PM · #5 |
I just got another set of prints from Kodak Gallery. My test prints from WHCC.com were also dark.
Here is the file I uploaded to Kodak, (for the record, this is a pic of my wife and I that I edited)
and here is a scan of the print I got from them, (I realize this method is not totally reliable)
Now, it doesn't seem too drastic of a difference and it makes sense there is less deviation in the print than the original. But look at the jacket, there is no detail in the print.
What am I doing wrong?
Is this jpg too dark, would you expect a dark print? Maybe my eyes need calibrating. |
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05/17/2011 12:40:31 AM · #6 |
Well the jacket is very dark to start with, but I can make out some detail (on my calibrated monitor) on my non-calibrated I cant make out anything.
I printed the image on my color laser and I get the same issue, you can not make out any detail on the black jacket. I guess the variance is just to small? |
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05/17/2011 02:01:19 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by adigitalromance:
I just got another set of prints from Kodak Gallery. My test prints from WHCC.com were also dark.
Here is the file I uploaded to Kodak, (for the record, this is a pic of my wife and I that I edited)
and here is a scan of the print I got from them, (I realize this method is not totally reliable)
Now, it doesn't seem too drastic of a difference and it makes sense there is less deviation in the print than the original. But look at the jacket, there is no detail in the print.
What am I doing wrong?
Is this jpg too dark, would you expect a dark print? Maybe my eyes need calibrating. |
You are correct...comparing the way you are is not going to be a good test with the scanner. For instance look how far off your black point is on your scan.
Did you shoot this file in RAW? Are you setting your black and white points early in your processing steps? Actually looking at the histogram of the file you uploaded to Kodak they are set to where I would expect them to be including the reflection and spectral highlight off the vehicle chrome.
Not sure how much detail you would expect to see in your jacket being some what in the shadow of the car interior. Sorry if I missed it, but is your jacket dark navy blue or is is black? On my calibrated monitors I don't see much detail either in your jacket, but not sure I would expect to with this scene. There seems to be a little color cast to the image you uploaded to Kodak, and it's a bit flat in tone. Although not a bad exposure. Using a levels adjustment layer try moving the mid-tone slider a little to the left to lighten the shadows slightly which will also pop the lighter tones a little. It will keep your black point the same, but may help in bringing out a little more shadow detail.
ETA: I downloaded your Kodak shot. Since the original size is pretty small a lot of detail in the shadows gets lost. At 200 percent I start to see some detail in the jacket in the bend of your arm, and the part part of your lapel. At 400 percent it's a lot more detailed. I can see your whole lapel, the seam where the sleeve meets the jacket etc. Depending on the size of your prints it's going to get lost to a certain degree since the jacket is so dark.
Dave
Message edited by author 2011-05-17 02:19:33. |
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05/17/2011 12:37:49 PM · #8 |
Thanks for your advice.
Unfortunately, these were shot in jpg, but I will try that with the levels adjustment. I am getting the idea that my edits are a little dark.
When you say "setting your black and white points early in your processing steps," can you explain what you mean?
Is that using levels or curves to click on the "true black" and "true white" portions of the image? I did not do that for this edit, but again, I think I'm learning that my eye needs to be "recalibrated."
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05/17/2011 01:39:34 PM · #9 |
The dark prints may be an "eye calibration" problem.
I have noticed that when I am editing with the lights off, I tend to make the images too dark because my eyes adjust to the darkness. If it's dark in the room where you are editing, try brightening up the room some with a light or two, and it may solve the darkness problem. I finally figured out that if I brighten up the images to where the whites are just beginning to blow out on the monitor, then it's probably about right.
I have also noticed the same effect when shooting in low light situations. They look to be exposed just great in the LCD on cam, but are dark when they come up on the screen at home. Sometimes I will turn down brightness on the LCD when night shooting for that reason. It's critical to remember to turn it back up when done with the night shooting, or at least sometime before shooting in the daylight again to keep from overexposing the daylight shots.
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05/17/2011 09:51:16 PM · #10 |
i've been told that when viewing a printed image VS. an image on a calibrated monitor the reason the printed image is darker is because the light is reflecting off the printed page and the light is transmitting through the image on the monitor. Reflected light on an image always appears darker than light that transmits through an image.
Make a minimal adjustment to the mid point with an adjustment Layer (Levels) to compensate for the difference. Click the adjustment layer off to compare the printed image with the original image on the monitor to determine the amount of mid point adjustment that is needed for your work flow on future images.
Message edited by author 2011-05-17 21:52:09. |
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