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DPChallenge Forums >> General Discussion >> and now for something COMPLETELY different
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 03/24/2004 05:07:10 AM · #1
with the out of place challenge. what if...
i took a photo of say, a sky, then took a photo of say, a shoe,
and then put the shoe in the sky. would that be acceptable???
 03/24/2004 05:08:16 AM · #2
it owuld be out of place but wouldn't meet the editing guidelines, try throwing it in the air and snapping it!!! (like the fantastic toaster photo!!!)
 03/24/2004 05:11:12 AM · #3
thanks, my camera only goes to 400 speed, think it would qualify for
the blurred challenge instead. ???
 03/24/2004 05:12:34 AM · #4
have you tried throwing the shoe slower? :-)
 03/24/2004 05:13:36 AM · #5
Or moving the sky closer?
 03/24/2004 05:14:14 AM · #6
maybe if i tie the laces first............lol
 03/24/2004 05:25:43 AM · #7
Or added rockets to the shoes so they could hover.
 03/24/2004 06:41:27 AM · #8
hmm there must be a way to get rocket powered shoes for the motion blur challenge
03/24/2004 07:49:24 AM · #9
In the right lighting monofilament line will disappear. You could simply tie it to the shoe and suspend it from something out of frame.
 03/24/2004 07:53:11 AM · #10
Originally posted by goodman:
with the out of place challenge. what if...
i took a photo of say, a sky, then took a photo of say, a shoe,
and then put the shoe in the sky. would that be acceptable???


Would be DQ'ed.
03/24/2004 08:04:10 AM · #11
Originally posted by goodman:
with the out of place challenge. what if...
i took a photo of say, a sky, then took a photo of say, a shoe,
and then put the shoe in the sky. would that be acceptable???

No. justine is correct; your submission must be from a single photo.
 03/25/2004 11:30:20 AM · #12
Originally posted by EddyG:
No. justine is correct; your submission must be from a single photo.


What if it was a double exposure made in camera? I was under the impression that was legal.
 03/25/2004 12:07:03 PM · #13
Tom, all in-camera effects/features are legal in both the Basic and Advanced editing rules. As long as when you submit the original photo, the Site Council can see the "double exposure" in the original as it came from the camera, all is good. When I say "single photo", I should have been more clear and said "single image file from your camera".
 03/26/2004 10:23:41 AM · #14
sorry i'm confused now, does this mean yes?
 03/26/2004 10:54:51 AM · #15
Originally posted by cbonsall:
have you tried throwing the shoe slower? :-)


If you throw the shoe in the air, there is a fraction of a second (good enough fr your 400) where the shoe changes from an upwards direction to a downward direction. That area of time where it changes should give you enough time to shoot it because the velocity of the shoe in the air is a parabola.
 03/26/2004 11:04:18 AM · #16
Originally posted by goinskiing:
Originally posted by cbonsall:
have you tried throwing the shoe slower? :-)


If you throw the shoe in the air, there is a fraction of a second (good enough fr your 400) where the shoe changes from an upwards direction to a downward direction. That area of time where it changes should give you enough time to shoot it because the velocity of the shoe in the air is a parabola.

This is also an opportunity to practice motion blur with a vertical pan. Use a brick wall or something with texture and a contrasting color to the shoe -- follow the shoe as you expose and the background should be blurred with the shoe in focus.
 03/26/2004 11:17:05 AM · #17
Originally posted by goinskiing:
Originally posted by cbonsall:
have you tried throwing the shoe slower? :-)


If you throw the shoe in the air, there is a fraction of a second (good enough fr your 400) where the shoe changes from an upwards direction to a downward direction. That area of time where it changes should give you enough time to shoot it because the velocity of the shoe in the air is a parabola.


Should also work well with a cat...
 03/26/2004 11:31:18 AM · #18
Originally posted by goodman:
thanks, my camera only goes to 400 speed, think it would qualify for
the blurred challenge instead. ???


Lesley, your camera has a max. shutter speed of 1/1000, which is more than enough to stop action. The 400 'speed' you mention (above) is an ISO value (comparable to film speed for film cams), which is quite a different thing, usually determined by the amount of available light.

If you know this already, I apologize. The way I read your post, I just felt this a little misleading for, say, a newby.
03/26/2004 03:14:39 PM · #19
I like your prints. Is your name Zeus?
How do I get the camera to that shutter speed? what is 'burst 3'
and 'one push?' Sorry I havent a clue.
 03/26/2004 04:02:00 PM · #20
Originally posted by goodman:
I like your prints. Is your name Zeus?
How do I get the camera to that shutter speed? what is 'burst 3'
and 'one push?' Sorry I havent a clue.


ΓΆ€ΒΆ Thank you, L.

ΓΆ€ΒΆ Yes.

ΓΆ€ΒΆ Setting the Mode Dial to 'S' (Shutter Speed Priority) lets you set a given shutter speed (1/1000, 1/800, 1/640, 1/500, 1/400, 1/320, 1/250, 1/200, 1/160, 1/125, 1/100, 1/80, 1/60, 1/50, 1/40, 1/30, 1/25, 1/20, 1/15, 1/13, 1/10, 1/8, 1/6, 1/5, 1/4, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.8, 1, 1.3, 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3.2, 4, 5, 6, 8 secs) and the camera will match the appropriate aperture value. You would use a high shutter speed to freeze rapid-moving subjects or use a slower shutter speed to intentionally blur them.

Setting the Mode Dial to 'M' (Manual) allows you to adjust both the shutter speed and the aperture value. You press in on the jog dial and move it to the shutter speed or the aperture value and press it again and then change the setting. The "EV" readout acts as your exposure meter and lets you know if the current settings will produce a proper exposure or over (+ number) or under (- number) exposure.

ΓΆ€ΒΆ 'Burst 3' produces 3 exposures in rapid succession instead of a single (default) one, useful for action, wildlife and, occasionally, more artistic applications too, when you want to 'freeze' a changeable subject.

ΓΆ€ΒΆ 'One Push' is a custom option for setting your White Balance (calibrating the sensor to recognize and use available light, usually by reading a white card). If you're uncomfortable experimenting with it, choose the Automatic setting for WB.

PS: Do you have a manual for the S85? If not you should definitely get one and read it too. :-)

Message edited by author 2004-03-26 16:03:29.
 03/26/2004 04:16:06 PM · #21
thank you, have printed out the procedures, sounds logical.
i'm not good with manuals.
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