Question On Film Developing - DPChallenge Forums

Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO IF for Nikon

02/12/2011 07:38:49 PM · #1

I recently started developing my own film. I've noticed that the scans I'm getting from the film I developed are looking a bit overexposed compared to the one I had processed at the pharmacy, but I'm not entirely sure why. All the detail seems to be there, I can see it in the negative and also bring it out with a simple levels adjustment, so I think I'm exposing OK when I'm taking the shot, besides, if it was just me unable to operate the camera surely all film I shot would have the same look.

Problem is, the one I had done at the pharmacy was Ilford XP2 Super, which uses the C41 process (why I didn't do it myself) and mine are Ilford HP5 Plus so I don't know if it's also just the way the film reacts to scanning.

Here's some comparison shots, the first is from the XP2 Super and the second from the HP5 Plus:

My question is this, is it something I'm doing in developing that's causing the overexposed look, am I just making a mess of scanning the B&W film or is this normal for this film type and I should just continue to adjust during / after scanning to get the look I want?

amathiasphoto

Nikon D300

02/12/2011 07:59:26 PM · #2

Definitely a difference between the two, isn't there? Its been a couple years, but I used to basically live in a dark room. I am guessing that you are using a warmer temp water when processing, and it is speeding up the developing process. Look at the temps you should be using, and make sure you are as accurate as possible. That is the first step IMHO.

chromeydome

Nikon D7000

02/12/2011 08:21:47 PM · #3

In general, when doing your own developing there are a lot of variables. Key is to control them. Shoot a known test subject (black, grey, and white card). Vary the film speed slightly (often better to shoot asa 400 at 320, etc), so as to find an optimal film speed to use for that film for your process. If ASA 100, shoot 80, 100, 125 shots of the subject, keeping notes.

When you develop the roll, be careful to measure and control: control temps of developer in particular, but the other chemicals as well. Create a repeatable process, careful measuring of chemicals, use distilled water to mix, and so forth.

When you scan the negatives, then convert them, see which comes closest to middle gray on the card, and the "zone" you measured for black and for white at the time of shooting (with a spot meter or your camera in spot meter mode). This gives you an idea of not only if the exposure was right (middle gray), but also if your contrast is correct. You alter the developer ratio and/or development time to adjust the resulting contrast in the negative. It can take a few iterations thru this, kinda tedious/painful, but the payoff is that you will be able to get repeatable, dependable results later on.

If you look around for some darkroom books on the zone system and the negative, you'll probably find more specific instructions. There is additonal testing you could do, later on, so that if you are dealing with very contrasty lighting, you can pull the contrast back in development, vice versa. Not as easy in roll film, where your development will apply to all images on the roll.

It has been a LONG time since I did this sort of thing. Gettin all nostalgic n stuff :-)

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 16-85 f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

02/12/2011 08:27:37 PM · #4

Thanks for the replies, obviously just getting into this I'm in the early learning process, but really enjoying it and loving the results!

Good to know there's a bit of experience in here I can look to when things aren't quite right, that and trial and error seem to be what's required here :)

thompp1

Nikon D500

02/12/2011 11:01:42 PM · #5

XP2 is a high contrast film, HP5 is a medium contrast film. The developer selection and the processing time can improve the contrast of the HP-5. You didn't specify the developer that you are using. Try Dektol (Kodak), shoot at 320 and process longer. Ilford provides contrast/time curves in some of their older tech sheets for HP5. The one I have is dated 91. The current one is at //www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20106281054152313.pdf, but doesn't have the developing time/contrast curves.

02/13/2011 05:46:21 AM · #6

Originally posted by thompp1:

I'm using Ilfosol 3, I have the data sheet from Ilford and I've been using the time / temp from that which is 11 minutes for a 1+14 concentration. I'll experiment a bit and see what I get in the future.

plugsnpixels

02/25/2011 05:46:34 PM · #7

Dektol is usually for prints, but I had to use it back on the '70s when I didn't have any D-76. Made for some seriously grainy negs (Tri-X)!

chromeydome

Nikon D7000

02/25/2011 05:53:11 PM · #8

The Darkroom Cookbook is an invaluable reference. I note that it has been revised since my purchase so many years ago. I'm tempted to score a copy just for that hoped-for day when I have a darkroom up and running again.