how the heck are you supposed to use lens hoods!?

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

11/22/2010 11:48:52 AM · #1

Ok, I don't use lens hoods. I know I should use lens hoods. So I tried using the hood on my 100-400mm lens.

The problem is, when I shoot wildlife, I almost always use a polarizing filter. I don't have monkey arms, so I can't have my camera to my eye and still reach in through that long hood to adjust my polarizer!

This seems like a really stupid setup. Aren't there other options?

Yo_Spiff

Olympus 12-100mm f/4.0 M.Zuiko ED IS PRO

11/22/2010 11:56:55 AM · #2

You can get some wider lens hoods. My Tamron 10-24 has one that is wide enough to get my fingers in there. It's an awkwards hood to store in some camera bags though. The better option may be to get a rubber lens hood. They collapse, so that you can reach the filter. They are also inexpensive.

Added: Also thinking maybe you could cut a slot in the side of a hood so you can rotate the filter.

Message edited by author 2010-11-22 11:57:54.

fotomann_forever

11/22/2010 12:11:45 PM · #3

Originally posted by Yo_Spiff:

Added: Also thinking maybe you could cut a slot in the side of a hood so you can rotate the filter.

Not a bad idea, if you know someone that is good with a Dremel tool.

skewsme

Canon EOS-6D

Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L II USM Lens

11/22/2010 12:26:27 PM · #4

get a monkey :)

hahn23

Canon EOS-5D Mark IV

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS II USM Lens

11/22/2010 12:35:05 PM · #5

Lens hoods are designed to prevent direct rays of the sun from reflecting off of the front element surface. The purpose being to eliminate lens flare. 3X as important with the extra two layers of glass from the polarizing filter in place. Also, I think some (most) camera TTL metering systems are optimized for the lens with hood in place. I think I get better metering with lens hood on.

Furthermore, the hood in place often take the blow from a lens drop. A hood is a much less expensive replacement, than a new lens. But, it's really more than drop protection, there are things out there which scratch the lens surface. I have a lot of scratches on my hoods, but few on my lens elements.

Not sure why you'd photograph wildlife with a polarizing filter in place. I can imagine there may be some glare reduction from reflective surfaces in the scene, but a 1.5 camera stop slowing of shutter speed is pretty hefty when wildlife is concerned. Almost always, I photograph wildlife with wide open aperture and boosted ISO sensor speed to freeze action. If the purpose of the polarizing filter is to blur action, then I see your strategy. It's okay.

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

11/22/2010 12:48:31 PM · #6

It is painful having a polarizer for moving wildlife.

However, most of what I shoot is birds. With the seagulls, the polarizer makes a huge difference with the sky and is well worth it. For the egrets, GBHs, and other shore birds, it's very important because of the water. I'd choose the polarizer over the hood (and basically always do.)

I like the idea of cutting a hole in it. I think we have a dremel tool around here.

It just seems like it would be very handy to have a hood/polarizing system that you could just rotate the hood and it rotated the polarizer.

Yo_Spiff

Olympus 12-100mm f/4.0 M.Zuiko ED IS PRO

11/22/2010 12:50:46 PM · #7

Originally posted by vawendy:

It just seems like it would be very handy to have a hood/polarizing system that you could just rotate the hood and it rotated the polarizer.

Just get a generic screw-in hood with the right thread size, rather than the type that clips onto the lens.

Samsung Galaxy S24, S24+, S24 Ultra

11/22/2010 12:56:42 PM · #8

Originally posted by Yo_Spiff:

Originally posted by vawendy:
It just seems like it would be very handy to have a hood/polarizing system that you could just rotate the hood and it rotated the polarizer.

Just get a generic screw-in hood with the right thread size, rather than the type that clips onto the lens.

That would work with the smaller lenses. I'm wondering whether the 100-400 lens hoods would put too much pressure on a filter.

I'm liking the dremel tool idea. I assume I should cut the hole on the underside so that less light would go through the hole. (since the filter is inset from the hood, the hole would have to be wide enough to reach inside with a finger...)

Bear_Music

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

11/22/2010 01:00:07 PM · #9

Originally posted by vawendy:

Originally posted by Yo_Spiff:

Originally posted by vawendy:
It just seems like it would be very handy to have a hood/polarizing system that you could just rotate the hood and it rotated the polarizer.

Just get a generic screw-in hood with the right thread size, rather than the type that clips onto the lens.

That would work with the smaller lenses. I'm wondering whether the 100-400 lens hoods would put too much pressure on a filter.

I'm liking the dremel tool idea. I assume I should cut the hole on the underside so that less light would go through the hole. (since the filter is inset from the hood, the hole would have to be wide enough to reach inside with a finger...)

Cutting the hole is a bad, bad idea. It eliminates protection at a time when you really need it, when the light is raking across the surface of the lens. The screw-in filter is the way to go. It doesn't weigh enough to be an issue. That's how we always used to do it, and it works fine.

R.

fotomann_forever

11/22/2010 01:01:45 PM · #10

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Cutting the hole is a bad, bad idea. It eliminates protection at a time when you really need it, when the light is raking across the surface of the lens.

Keep a finger in the hole? :)

11/22/2010 01:28:28 PM · #11

Seriously? Think techie guys!

So, here's my "solution"...

Take your filter and glue a (or two, three, four, whatever works) Neodymium RE magnet (N52 grade if you can get it) to your filter ring, then using a larger, stronger magnet (think 1x1x1 cube) you should be able to rotate the filter without any need for such silliness as cutting holes in your lens hood...

Here's the little ones
//www.rare-earth-magnets.com/p-6-nsn0566.aspx

Here's the big guy (actually a bit larger than I would probably recommend, but this should move it..)
//www.shop.com/Rare+Earth+Magnets+Strong+Neodymium+2x2x1+Magnet+Block-298844507-p+.xhtml

The standard disclaimer here is that these are stupid powerful magnets that can do all kinds of crazy bad things to all kinds of stuff, including your flesh should you get between two of these..

See here for examples of what you want to avoid...

11/22/2010 01:31:14 PM · #12

Originally posted by coryboehne:

drat!! I can't use those... I usually store my grape tomatoes in my lens hood. :(

Pentax DA 16-45mm f/4.0 ED AL AF

11/22/2010 01:32:52 PM · #13

Originally posted by vawendy:

Originally posted by coryboehne:
Seriously? Think techie guys!

So, here's my "solution"...

Take your filter and glue a (or two, three, four, whatever works) Neodymium RE magnet (N52 grade if you can get it) to your filter ring, then using a larger, stronger magnet (think 1x1x1 cube) you should be able to rotate the filter without any need for such silliness as cutting holes in your lens hood...

Here's the little ones
//www.rare-earth-magnets.com/p-6-nsn0566.aspx

Here's the big guy (actually a bit larger than I would probably recommend, but this should move it..)
//www.shop.com/Rare+Earth+Magnets+Strong+Neodymium+2x2x1+Magnet+Block-298844507-p+.xhtml

The standard disclaimer here is that these are stupid powerful magnets that can do all kinds of crazy bad things to all kinds of stuff, including your flesh should you get between two of these..

See here for examples of what you want to avoid...

drat!! I can't use those... I usually store my grape tomatoes in my lens hood. :(

lol

alohadave

Pentax K-5

11/22/2010 01:36:27 PM · #14

Originally posted by vawendy:

Shoot Pentax. :) Their hoods have a little door that you can remove to adjust polarizers.

//www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=3676&review=pentax+17-70mm as an example.

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24, S24+, S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

11/22/2010 01:41:11 PM · #15

Originally posted by alohadave:

Shoot Pentax. :) Their hoods have a little door that you can remove to adjust polarizers.

//www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=3676&review=pentax+17-70mm as an example.

Now, that's just brilliant...

R.

Pentax DA L 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AL

11/22/2010 01:46:59 PM · #16

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by alohadave:
Shoot Pentax. :) Their hoods have a little door that you can remove to adjust polarizers.

//www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=3676&review=pentax+17-70mm as an example.

Now, that's just brilliant...

R.

I guess you could do the same with Canon, cut the hole and just use black electrical tape instead (or gaffers tape would be even better, as it's not supposed to leave residue)

mgsmith53

Pentax K-R

11/22/2010 01:53:07 PM · #17

Dave is right...my 55-300ED has a little slide out window at the bottom just big enough for a finger.

Another solution: rubber lens hood. You don't take it on and off, you fold it back out of the way, adjust your polarizer, pop the rubber hood back out and into service. They're not terribly durable, but they are pretty cheap...and make a good bumper, too.

Message edited by author 2010-11-22 13:54:29.

snaffles

Nikon D7100

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

11/22/2010 03:25:51 PM · #18

How about that site that led you download the pattern for lens hoods, which you can then print out on heavy card, and cut out. You could then figure out and build in enough space for a filter, and if you do mess up one, you just print out another?

I'm pretty sure hojop25 uses that site quite a bit. Also search the forums.

David Ey

Nikon D80

Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f2.8D

11/22/2010 05:36:08 PM · #19

I'm confused. I have heard circular polarizers are used on digital camers and there is no need to rotate. However, with my film camers, I liked the adjustments available with the linear style.