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11/06/2010 01:40:45 AM · #1 |
I am mixed on frames...I don't like hiding a photo behind glass (glare)..so I tend to use non-glare acrylic, which is expensive.
So I got started a while back doing canvases...I like those for many of my landscapes, especially when they are somewhat painterly to start.
I've recently tried a few standout mounts...I like those, but you do lose the framing effect of the border.
So I was wondering how a standout would look if I printed the photo with a white border, sort of a faux matte. Has anyone tried that?
I'm not thinking this would work with larger prints, but if I want to do some standouts in the range of 20" or less, maybe it would look nice? (looking for opinions and ideas).
I may just try a small one with this, a 12x12 standout plus print is only $23. It goes up to about $40 for a 16x20 (these are .75" standouts). Of course, you lose image area --you're paying for white space -- but I've printed a whole portfolio book of various aspect ratios using 11x14 prints and the real photo within a variable size white border, and they look surprisingly good (though it's just a portfolio book, not a wall hanging). But I was thinking I could make a nice set to display that way, at 11x14 ($around $24 each).
What do you think? If you think they might look good, what about using them in a show, not for a museum or art gallery, but a cafe or library type show (I have a couple more of those coming up...)?
Any other interesting ideas?
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11/06/2010 04:09:30 AM · #2 |
I think that this is an excellent idea. I don't really care for the image wrapping around the side edges, and I think this would look much nicer. A display of a number of them would look fantastic, especially if they are all as gorgeous as your example.
ETA Sorry, I misunderstood what a standout was. I was thinking of those canvas images that wrap around the edges.
Message edited by author 2010-11-06 17:54:48. |
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11/06/2010 04:23:15 AM · #3 |
| Curious, what is a standout? |
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11/06/2010 10:35:59 AM · #4 |
The printer I use prints me images with a one and one half to two inch white border, and mounts them on foam core for about that price, and they look very nice in an inexpensive frame. Of course, you can still use a mat with the frame, but I've had people buy them just mounted on the foam board so they can choose their own frames.
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11/06/2010 10:40:12 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by SaraR: Curious, what is a standout? |
Here's what they are: //www.whcc.com/products/prints-finishing/standout/
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11/06/2010 10:56:57 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by NikonJeb: The printer I use prints me images with a one and one half to two inch white border, and mounts them on foam core for about that price, and they look very nice in an inexpensive frame. Of course, you can still use a mat with the frame, but I've had people buy them just mounted on the foam board so they can choose their own frames. |
So the printer (a local shop?) adds the border for you? I don't mind adding the border myself (though it would be handy if WHCC/BRI's ROES software took care of that), but for a show, I think I would use real matting, at least when they are framed. I've also used bordered, mounted prints for sales or gift prints.
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11/06/2010 11:04:16 AM · #7 |
As far as using frames, I have a question: How big are framed images typically for public display in a show? My canvases are all "around" 16x24. For framed prints, I was originally thinking I needed to stay in that ball park--at least the frame itself should be in that range. Or do you think 11x14 frames, with a matted print are ok? (Much less expensive, even if I went with acrylic nonglare!) (Same question applies I guess to using the standouts---I could produce 11x14 standouts pretty inexpensively...the border also allows me to break through the aspect ratio issue.
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11/06/2010 11:11:39 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by NikonJeb: The printer I use prints me images with a one and one half to two inch white border, and mounts them on foam core for about that price, and they look very nice in an inexpensive frame. Of course, you can still use a mat with the frame, but I've had people buy them just mounted on the foam board so they can choose their own frames. |
Originally posted by nshapiro: So the printer (a local shop?) adds the border for you? I don't mind adding the border myself (though it would be handy if WHCC/BRI's ROES software took care of that), but for a show, I think I would use real matting, at least when they are framed. I've also used bordered, mounted prints for sales or gift prints. |
Yes.....but he uses the same CS2 I do, so it's no big deal.
I do use a matte when I frame simply because it looks better, and I spend the money to do nice frames. Though I don't sell a lot, I know what I think of the cheap plastic DIY framing jobs when I see them offered as representative of someone's work.
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11/06/2010 12:39:06 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by NikonJeb:
I do use a matte when I frame simply because it looks better, and I spend the money to do nice frames. Though I don't sell a lot, I know what I think of the cheap plastic DIY framing jobs when I see them offered as representative of someone's work. |
Well I wasn't considering plastic frames, only acrylic instead of glass (because it's non-glare). :)
Unfortunately, it's about $50 a frame to do a 10x15 or even a 12x12 (with a 3" matte all around--2" seems too little.) If I want to do 20 of them for a show, we're talking $1000 (not counting the prints!)
Another question for anyone: Have you ever tried to frame a "mounted" print? I also don't find I get flat enough prints for a frame...sometimes you can see they are not flat when you walk to one side or another. Mounted prints solve this. But WHCC mounts prints at their exact size. I can use 2mm styrene, but I've never tried putting that between matte boards and a backing to frame. Anyone framing mounted prints?
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11/06/2010 12:47:01 PM · #10 |
| If you want some serious POP, I love the way prints look on aluminum.... *shrug* might be a tad expensive though... |
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11/06/2010 01:01:06 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by coryboehne: If you want some serious POP, I love the way prints look on aluminum.... *shrug* might be a tad expensive though... |
Yes, I've seen that advertised and it looks cool. I haven't even switched to metal prints yet though..still printing to Lustre! But I may try some this next round.
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11/06/2010 01:16:09 PM · #12 |
As an aside on framing and matting, since there are already several posts discussing alternatives to conventional framing:
• the matte, of course, serves a very real purpose beyond mere aesthetics, which is to prevent the print from touching the glass.
• Since glass is very heavy, any frame larger than 22 x 28 will exert too much stress on the wire holding it up and slowly cause it to slip, no matter how well it is secured.
• As far is glare is concerned, prints behind regular glass should be matte, not glossy or any variation of gloss or lustre. Non-glare glass is expensive (UV/non-glare prohibitively so), yet many black and white prints work best on glossy paper.
• Photo paper wider/taller than 16" tends to undulate (wave) a little along the longest dimension, even under a good matte. Heavier (Fine Art) paper (around 300 gsm) would be better used for these prints.
• Most FA papers take a long time (up to two weeks) to cure (much longer than the manufacturer's recommendations suggest), if you wish to avoid ghosting (formation of an oily film on the glass over parts of the print).
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