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12/21/2009 02:08:31 AM · #1 |
So I was loaned a backdrop and two Canon Speedlite 540EZ's with shoot-thru umbrellas and I have not the slightest clue what I am doing. I am hoping someone can give me some pointers for just some straightforward portraiture. Such as positioning and maybe what the heck the zoom settings are for on the flashes and where I should have them. I will probably mostly use my 50mm and 18-55 kit lens and perhaps my 15mm fisheye. Backdrops are just one white and one black. Thanks in advance.
J |
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12/21/2009 02:35:16 AM · #2 |
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12/21/2009 02:46:24 AM · #3 |
| NICE! Diagrams and all, sweet! |
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12/21/2009 10:46:40 AM · #4 |
Oh, this information is so helpful! I mentioned on the other thread that I'm doing an indoor family portrait shoot today at 11:30, and it was helpful to see others set ups.
I have found lately that I get plenty of light if I use my Gary Fong lightsphere on my 580EX flash set as the master flash, and have another 580 Flash set as a slave flash pointing so that it bounces off a large white reflector set low and facing them. The Light sphere tho has been the revolutionary key for me. It adds as much light as a big lightbox and it seems to disburse the light really evenly and pretty with no shadows. I had been taking two hot lights with me, but I never ended up needing them. I sure hope this works today for me.
Thanks for the thread, Jason -- and good luck! Be sure to show us your results, okay?
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12/21/2009 12:13:31 PM · #5 |
| nice threads but i am still hoping someone can tell me more about the flashes, and what the settings mean.....I guess I could Google it... |
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12/21/2009 12:33:15 PM · #6 |
what are you using to trigger them? you might have use of ttl depending on the trigger/reciever. otherwise its all manual, im not sure of the power levels the 580 is capable of but basicly decrease power for shorter duration and therefor less light.
Message edited by author 2009-12-21 12:37:06. |
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12/21/2009 02:11:27 PM · #7 |
First you should avoid using a fisheye for portraits. You might get some distortion that will not be flattering( or maybe it might).
You could start off with a simple setup like this one from  michaelmonn
NOtice the positioning of the lights and the camera. Lights are about 45 degrees on the front and back of subject and camera is about 30 degrees on axis.
Always a good starting point then work from there.
As for your flashes, if you are using shoot thrus start with the wide angle setting in the zoom. This will spread the flash out to cover the whole umbrella, giving you more even lighting. If you zoom the flash, it gives a more concentrated powerful flash.(A little harsher lighting) probably something to consider after you get your "safe" shots.
Always "build" your lights. Start with what aperture you want to shoot with. I know with my lenses I like to shoot around f8 or f5.6 to start.
then bring in your main light ( the one facing your subject). Dial in the power setting on your flash till it is properly exposed for your f stop setting.(of course if you have a light meter it is much easier).
Then bring in your second light and position it where you want. Then repeat the steps. Dial in the power settings until it is exposed just the way you like it.
Once you get your safe shots, try moving lights around and changing the settings to see what it does to your subject.
Hope this helps.
Remember you never know what you get til you try it. Afterall memory space is pretty cheap.
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12/21/2009 03:19:38 PM · #8 |
Thanks for the information everybody. I am so lost with flash units....I don't even know how to turn them down from full power. I love my strobes...but my flash units can go take a hike. LOL
Sorry Jason...I am as lost as you are when it comes to flash units. I do use my Gary Fong to soften the light and then I just adjust my F stop and shutter, instead of adjusting the flash unit itself. |
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12/21/2009 03:27:58 PM · #9 |
it's possible you're having some issues with the compatibility of the EZ series flash with a 300D ?
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12/21/2009 10:55:24 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by soup:
it's possible you're having some issues with the compatibility of the EZ series flash with a 300D ? |
i think they are compatible, they both have pocket wizards attached with a transceiver on the hot shoe of my camera, if i wasn't such a guy i would prob pull the manuals off the net and read up on them and solve some of these mysteries, like why the power switch has "on" and "se"?
they do flash when i shoot, so maybe i will just continue to play while i got these for the week and see what i come up with, of course it does not help that the power supply on my pc went dead today, i will have to edit them on my laptop which is never optimal |
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12/21/2009 11:48:19 PM · #11 |
i think 'se' might be a power save setting. but i don't read manuals too often either :)
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12/22/2009 12:51:17 PM · #12 |
here's the manual for it. 'SE' stands for save energy.
//www.usa.canon.com/app/pdf/lens/Speedlite_540EZ_manual.pdf
Message edited by author 2009-12-22 12:53:03.
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12/23/2009 06:26:27 PM · #13 |
| another question, do i just have bad batteries or do these things eat up the double a's like crazy? |
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12/23/2009 07:22:20 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by smardaz:
another question, do i just have bad batteries or do these things eat up the double a's like crazy? |
One of the main reasons they make powerpacks for the flashes. |
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12/23/2009 07:26:05 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by smardaz:
another question, do i just have bad batteries or do these things eat up the double a's like crazy? |
Try using nickel metal hydride AA batteries. They will last longer and recharge the capasitor faster. Look for a rating around 2500mah. I have had good luck with the white top energizers.
Also try to keep the flash power bellow full power. It will make quite a difference in battery life. |
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12/23/2009 07:26:05 PM · #16 |
oops
Message edited by author 2009-12-23 19:26:36. |
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