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DPChallenge Forums >> Photography Discussion >> Filters vs Photoshop
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Showing posts 1 - 13 of 13, (reverse)
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08/29/2009 01:14:06 PM · #1
I know a lot of you will say that you can do everything in Photoshop any filter can do. Perhaps it's true but if you had $$$ to spend and wanted to minimize the amount of time you spend in front of the computer would you consider filters?
Anyone out there believes that some things you just can't achieve in Photoshop? Or maybe that it would take a really long time to do the same thing in Photoshop? Anyone here uses filters? If so do you have some nice pictures that show off?

Thanks
Maggie
08/29/2009 01:17:36 PM · #2
Polarizing effects are pretty much impossible to achieve in photoshop. I also use graduated neutral density filters. There is a gradient feature in both lightroom and photoshop which can simulate the effect. Much easier to use on the camera though.
08/29/2009 01:18:55 PM · #3
When I shoot waterfalls, a circular polarizer is a must. It allows me to control whether or not I want to see reflections in the rivers or if I want to see through them.

If I have some time, I will post an example later.
08/29/2009 01:22:41 PM · #4
Thank you both. I do use circular polarizer a lot. How about color enhancing filters? Or gold/blue?
08/29/2009 04:08:59 PM · #5
Another thing that is impossible to do in post-processing is cut down on the amount of light present to lengthen exposure. For that, neutral density filters are required. I use two, a 3-stop for moderate reduction and a 10-stop for doing long exposures (multiple seconds) in daylight.
08/31/2009 10:26:09 PM · #6
I've started getting into graduated filters. Yes you can kinda do the same in CS4, but as kirbic says below teh big advantage of filters is the exposure equalisation. Plus, you can't use graduated effects in CS4 in basic ruleset challenges............ Whereas you can use filters... :) On saying, I anticipate a spate of validation requests for my up-coming basic submission................

Al
08/31/2009 11:03:46 PM · #7
Cir Pol.
Cross Star.
I use a grad ND sometimes as well.

09/01/2009 02:29:53 AM · #8
can i jump in here and ask, for ND grads do you use hard or soft?

I ask because i have a cokin p system that i was not sure if i would use or not, thinking like the OP that i could just use photoshop so i got a cheap set of mixed filters from ebay, i have found the gray filters invaluable when trying to get moody skies, but have lost the only grad filter and would like to get some more gray filters but am unsure as to the strength or hard soft options.
09/01/2009 07:39:00 AM · #9
Originally posted by nikonrich:

can i jump in here and ask, for ND grads do you use hard or soft?

I ask because i have a cokin p system that i was not sure if i would use or not, thinking like the OP that i could just use photoshop so i got a cheap set of mixed filters from ebay, i have found the gray filters invaluable when trying to get moody skies, but have lost the only grad filter and would like to get some more gray filters but am unsure as to the strength or hard soft options.

Well, I just got 2 graduated ND filters from Sigh Ray and they arrived yesterday. I got 2 stops hard and 3 stops soft. I have not tried them yet.
09/01/2009 09:41:31 AM · #10
Originally posted by nikonrich:

can i jump in here and ask, for ND grads do you use hard or soft?

I ask because i have a cokin p system that i was not sure if i would use or not, thinking like the OP that i could just use photoshop so i got a cheap set of mixed filters from ebay, i have found the gray filters invaluable when trying to get moody skies, but have lost the only grad filter and would like to get some more gray filters but am unsure as to the strength or hard soft options.


Hard edge is good if the gradation line will be hidden in the composition otherwise a soft edge is usually more suitable. I have the cokin P system and only use the soft edge (don't own any hard edge grad ND filters).

Also, using a screw in grad ND filter kind of defeats the purpose of the grad unless you always want the gradation line through the center of the image.

Message edited by author 2009-09-01 09:42:30.
09/01/2009 05:52:55 PM · #11
The Grad ND filter can be a great help while shooting "on the run", as from a moving vehicle while traveling. It will help get the landscape or whatever the subject is without blowing out the sky, or having to do a lot of work to get it to look as good. A CPL is also good if there is a lot of light, but the Grad ND allows you to shoot closer to sunset and keep up good shutter speed.
09/01/2009 07:15:01 PM · #12
I'll add my somewhat meaningless voice to the chorus of those suggesting polarizer (primarily circular) and neutral density filters of various densities are very useful tools for photographers. They are particularly important to the outdoor, landscape photographer.

Polarizer:
A polarizer improves image clarity by reducing haze generated by reflected polarized light. Reflections off water, plants, sky and glass surfaces are greatly reduced. This has the added benefit of making colors much more vibrant. Plants often reflect a lot of polarized light and removing it makes trees, bushes, grass and other plants stand out in an image. Polarizers are especially useful for adding drama to cloud-filled skies.

The down side of circular polarizers is that you have to adjust them for every shot and their effects are not uniform across the image which is especially apparent in blue skies. You also need to understand that, in general, the greatest amount of polarization effects in outdoor photography are perpendicular to the position of the sun in the sky and you need to plan for and compose your images according to the knowledge if you want to maximize the benefit of the filter.

Neutral Density:
Neutral density filters actually have a dual purpose. Their most important function is to "flatten" images. Flattening images improves the general overall tonal quality of a picture. They are most useful under harsh lighting conditions. The second purpose is to reduce light to control the length of exposure times to produce such things as those silky waterfall pictures that are so visually appealing.
09/01/2009 10:01:05 PM · #13
Bright light, midday, 8 second exposure with a +4 ND filter.



Can't shoot this kind of shot and "velvet" the water after the fact.
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