Looking for lighting advice for product shots

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

08/04/2009 05:04:33 PM · #1

Time to rollout another copier model and do the photos for our brochures. I think I did pretty good last time, but I had to do a lot of selective editing on the background to get it white.

I'd like to see if I can improve my camera work to require less editing this time. Here's the location, partially set up this afternoon:

I have available:
-3 cheapo Sunpak tripods to use for holding lights or reflectors
-3 cheap clamp lights from home depot, fitted to the tripods
-2 small mylar automobile sunshades as reflectors. (can be mounted to tripod if needed)
-1 large rectangular automobile sunshade to use as reflector (not shown in picture)
-Mylar emergency blanket to use as reflector if neeed.
-430EX flash. I do not have a remote trigger.
-fluorescent office lighting mounted in a low, white ceiling

My present intention is to use two of the clamp lights to add more light to the background, aiming the third light and my camera mounted 430EX off of the low ceiling. Reflectors are located at the base of the light stands (as shown) to help throw some light toward the lower part of the machine and avoid shadows.

Any ideas or suggestions on how I can do this better? Thanks

Message edited by author 2009-08-04 17:05:11.

chromeydome

Nikon D7000

08/04/2009 08:24:58 PM · #2

Can you roll your seamless down onto the floor, and then place the copier on it? Might save some post processing on the floor/wall interface, and the floor panels themselves....

Not sure, but a bit more distance between the copier and the backdrop might allow a lot more light to be thrown on the background to blow it out without over-lighting the copier. If you find cranking the flash up to blow the background is messing with your subject, that is. If it works as is, no change required.

oops, I see the background is to be lit by the clamp lights, not flashes. you may need them in close, just out of frame, but otherwise as close as possible.

Message edited by author 2009-08-04 20:26:49.

Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM for Nikon

08/04/2009 08:31:43 PM · #3

Originally posted by chromeydome:

Can you roll your seamless down onto the floor, and then place the copier on it? Might save some post processing on the floor/wall interface, and the floor panels themselves....

That is the intention, I was just not wanting to pull down the clean paper until I am ready to start.

Originally posted by chromeydome:

Not sure, but a bit more distance between the copier and the backdrop might allow a lot more light to be thrown on the background to blow it out without over-lighting the copier. If you find cranking the flash up to blow the background is messing with your subject, that is.

I'll pull it out as far as I can, thanks.

Originally posted by chromeydome:

you may need them in close, just out of frame, but otherwise as close as possible.

That helps, I'll keep that in mind. I also need to bring some stronger bulbs with me in the morning. The 60 watters that I use for tabletop shots are not going to cut it.

jdannels

Nikon D300s

08/04/2009 09:28:14 PM · #4

If you are using CFl's let them warm up, the color temperature will change some and they will get brighter. Also You can put one light and a gel on the background if you want to change give some separation. Since its continuous lighting you should be able to experiment. You could even turn off all the lights in the room and paint the thing with with one of your lights. It could give an interesting effect. You could cover the lights with wax paper to give the light a more diffused effect. Remember the closer the lights are, the more diffused and soft the light is. I would even consider having the lights in the frame if necessary and then clone it out.

benjikan

Pentax K-5

Pentax SMC-DA * 16-50mm F2.8 ED/AL (IF) SDM

08/05/2009 05:29:00 PM · #5

Just one little suggestion. If you want it to look really slick and if the company can afford it. Why not place a couple of 3 x 4' sheets of white plexi-glass on the seamless once you have rolled it out of course, roll the copier on to it and take your image. You get some really nice reflections that way.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

08/07/2009 09:32:21 AM · #6

Originally posted by benjikan:

Cool idea, but this is on a budget and the folks that do our product brochures would edit that reflective floor out of the shot anyway. I got to do this because I showed my boss I could do an equal (IMO better) job than the pro that they had been hiring for it, and they already pay for my time.

Here's one of my shots from yesterday. This is the initial conversion from the RAW file. I'll post the end result after editing shortly. Lighting notes are with the image.

Message edited by author 2009-08-07 09:33:23.

robs

Canon EOS R6 Mk II

08/07/2009 10:55:46 AM · #7

Just an idea.... If you put brolly's on those background lights and angle them so the light is contained behing the object, you will get a more even white over throwing the spot on the background.

08/07/2009 11:36:09 AM · #8

Originally posted by robs:

Just an idea.... If you put brolly's on those background lights and angle them so the light is contained behing the object, you will get a more even white over throwing the spot on the background.

If I had some umbrellas, I would. They are on the "want to buy soon" list.

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

08/07/2009 12:25:25 PM · #9

Here's the final edit. I have a bunch more to do, but they are all just the same thing with various configurations of options. Since the boss would not let me shoot them with a bikini model lying on top, you folks probably don't want to see any more of them! Thanks for the advice.

chromeydome

Nikon D7000

08/07/2009 12:58:54 PM · #10

Nicely done.

See if you can get a new boss, maybe one who IS a bikini model....

Canon EOS-5D Mark IV

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS

08/07/2009 01:14:00 PM · #11

I'd select only the shadows below the machine and decrease saturation about 50% ...

geinafets

Canon EOS-50D

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

08/07/2009 09:56:45 PM · #12

Have you tried shooting with a longer lens or a tilt-shift to correct for the verticals?