Old Flash, New Camera - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

04/01/2009 12:29:21 PM · #1

Hi there, I had an old flash I tested at 2.79 volts that I'm using on my Canon 1000D. Anyways, I'm still new to it all and not very familiar with flashes. This one is multi-dedicated so I did set it to the C for Canon even though it probably doesn't make much difference considering it's a 70's flash.

There are two other switches I'm curious about. One is on the front and it says M and then one is a blue circle and one is an orange circle. The blue circle and M make the flash brighter then the orange circle. Any clue what settings those are for? Also on the back I have a switch I can move across to choose the F/Stop etc... but it doesn't make a darn bit of difference when I take a shot in Manual mode in terms of brightness. Should it? Or maybe I dont' know what the heck I'm talking about.

Originally when I put it in the hotshoe I tried covering all the connections but the rail and the center post for the sync. Flash didn't work. I uncovered the other connectors and it works fine with them there(i hope no damage is being done, the camera itself acts fine). One thing it does stop my camera from working faster then 1/200th(the flash sync). On the other hand the menu on my camera does not recognize my flash(totally not surprised by that one) it says it's incompatible.

Bottom line is I can expose for the flash but I can't adjust the flash brightness other then those 3 choices on the front. Is there something I can do for the F/Stop switch or am I just misunderstanding how that works? Maybe I need to block certain posts and not others? Any ideas whatsoever?

Beetle

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

04/01/2009 01:45:10 PM · #2

I'm sorry I can't help, but wanted to share that I was warned that the wrong flash could fry my camera.
Not sure just how true that is, but personally I'd be too worried to just try out any old flash.

rmezzo

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

04/01/2009 02:39:46 PM · #3

Originally posted by drewhosick:

Drew Hosick
WORK: Radio Morning Show Host

Sorry, can't help you here either, but after I saw your signature, I couldn't help but think of Weenie and the Butt.

Anti-Martyr

Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

04/01/2009 03:31:42 PM · #4

Originally posted by Beetle:

Slightly true, IIRC. It won't torch your whole camera, but there's a possibility it could fry up your hotshoe circuitry.

robs

Canon EOS R6 Mk II

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

04/01/2009 03:36:02 PM · #5

Not sure on how to change power but.... On manual those switches are just decoration... They can do the distance maths for you if you set them but they ain't been used. Now if it's in some type of auto mode they would be used.

Edit: No combo of pins if going to make the camera deal with it in any way, so manual or IF the strobe has an auto setting - set the various dials so the flash can do the exposure NOT the camera.

Message edited by author 2009-04-01 15:38:01.

04/02/2009 06:18:51 AM · #6

So if it only has a manual setting it would only work at one power? In other words I'd have to adjust exposure with camera for the flash instead of the other way around(sort of since you still adjust camera exposure)?

Originally posted by Beetle:

Actually that's why you test the voltage on the sync pin(the center one) and the rail to complete the circuit. For the Canon you want under 6 volts according to them. I picked up 2.79 volts on the flash which is perfect. Some old flashes send out voltages into the hundreds of volts and from my understanding that can damage the capaciter in the flash circuitry? Correct me if I'm wrong it may be something else in the circuitry but it's something along that line.

Message edited by author 2009-04-02 06:19:14.

FireBird

04/02/2009 06:32:31 AM · #7

Would be cool if you gave us a model number for the flash and perhaps a couple of close up photos of the flash.

dainmcgowan

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II

04/02/2009 06:41:19 AM · #8

Originally posted by drewhosick:

Bottom line is I can expose for the flash but I can't adjust the flash brightness other then those 3 choices on the front. Is there something I can do for the F/Stop switch or am I just misunderstanding how that works? Maybe I need to block certain posts and not others? Any ideas whatsoever?

you could try flash exposure compensation.
on my 40D it is one of the buttons on the top of the camera, and you can adjust -2 ev to +2 ev.

04/02/2009 04:58:06 PM · #9

Well someone else took pics so here you go:

FireBird

04/02/2009 06:03:00 PM · #10

[quote=drewhosick] Well someone else took pics so here you go:

Wow. Almost looks like manual is full flash power with no adjustments. That would be weird. In auto it should take fairly good images, especially if you bounce the flash off a white ceiling. The round hole beneath the function switch is the auto flash sensor. If auto is not doing very good, hit that sensor with some canned air as it's not unusual for that small hole to get clogged and cause a full power flash at all times. When you move the aperture slider on the back, does the asa/din figure change? I would figure that the slider is just a calculator in auto mode, but it should vary manual power in manual mode. Put your camera in manual mode, shutter 1/125, F16 and take a shot of something about 15 feet away. Do this with the flash in "Blue" (manual) mode with the aperture set to the lowest figure, and again with it set at the highest figure. If both are exposed the same, you're right, there is no manual adjustment. Bummer. Good luck.

04/03/2009 10:54:30 AM · #11

Originally posted by FireBird:

Put your camera in manual mode, shutter 1/125, F16 and take a shot of something about 15 feet away. Do this with the flash in "Blue" (manual) mode with the aperture set to the lowest figure, and again with it set at the highest figure. If both are exposed the same, you're right, there is no manual adjustment. Bummer. Good luck.

Same exposure

Originally posted by Firebird:

In auto it should take fairly good images, especially if you bounce the flash off a white ceiling. The round hole beneath the function switch is the auto flash sensor. If auto is not doing very good, hit that sensor with some canned air as it's not unusual for that small hole to get clogged and cause a full power flash at all times.

What setting is auto? M or the Orange dot?

04/03/2009 10:56:08 AM · #12

Originally posted by drewhosick:

Originally posted by FireBird:

Put your camera in manual mode, shutter 1/125, F16 and take a shot of something about 15 feet away. Do this with the flash in "Blue" (manual) mode with the aperture set to the lowest figure, and again with it set at the highest figure. If both are exposed the same, you're right, there is no manual adjustment. Bummer. Good luck.

Same exposure

Originally posted by Firebird:

In auto it should take fairly good images, especially if you bounce the flash off a white ceiling. The round hole beneath the function switch is the auto flash sensor. If auto is not doing very good, hit that sensor with some canned air as it's not unusual for that small hole to get clogged and cause a full power flash at all times.

What setting is auto? M or the Orange dot?

Must be orange dot it's not overexposed whereas the M was.

Is M just full power all the time? And if the Manual thing doesn't work in Blue then why have that setting at all? Or is there something I'm missing?

FireBird

04/03/2009 11:14:36 AM · #13

Sorry, haven't been back in a while. Yup, I guess that blue is manual. So you tried sliding the control in manual and it was always over exposed? Does sound aimless to have a manual position with no control of output. Did you test it at 15 feet from your subject like I suggested? I had a minolta flash that couldn't be adjusted manually. But they did that so they could charge more for the more expensive model that could be adjusted.

Ahhhh, I see your reply on the other post.
Don't look good for manual adjustment. Depending on how much you want to pay a used Nikon flash to look out for is the SB28. 1/1 to 1/64 manual adjustment, plus the same auto mode as the one you're using now. It just won't work with your Canon using the Canon eTTL. I've got 4 of these that I use remotely with the cactus RF remote slaves. I just adjust them manually.
I wish I could find something like those with a big knob on the back to adj the power rather than having to go into the menu.

Message edited by author 2009-04-03 11:18:28.