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03/26/2009 11:02:15 PM · #1 |
So I picked up my camera bag and heard that annoying sound of a speedlite falling out of a hitherto unnoticed open side pocket and connecting with the tiled floor (at least it wasn't the camera). Power comes on and all looks ok on the LCD but no flash.
Nikon said I have to send to them and even if it is just a bulb (or whatever the correct name is) it will still be about $200. Now I'm guessing if it is not the bulb it will cost a lot more which means for that sort of money I have other options. However, if it is the bulb, surely it cannot be that hard to take apart & check, I do have another working speedlite sb600.
If this is the case, surely I can replace the darn thing for a lot less than $200. All I want to know if it is easy enough for me to open up and try with the bulb from the other unit, or is it going to be one of those thingamabobs that once dissected a mere mortal can never get back together again?
(on a side note I cannot believe Firefox spell checked 'thingamabobs' correctly:)) |
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03/26/2009 11:29:55 PM · #2 |
The big capacitor in there can give you a very nasty (read; TASER) bite when it's charged up. I can't give you any other advice, as all of my crashes have been lens or camera wreckage.
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03/26/2009 11:33:56 PM · #3 |
Thnx 4 that.
I just found an article about a guy who successfully replaced his tube but said he wouldn't do it again. With all the possible shocks and soldering it all sounds too hard, all of a sudden a couple of hundred bucks doesn't seem too bad. |
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03/26/2009 11:36:36 PM · #4 |
Beware that according to something I read many years ago the bulb/strobe/tube can also store a fairly nasty charge.
Message edited by author 2009-03-26 23:36:44. |
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03/26/2009 11:38:49 PM · #5 |
A non Nikon repair shop somewhere in your area may be able to take care of it for you for much less than the $200. Be aware of the possibility that if the discharge circuit for the capacitor is disabled from the fall, the capacitor could potentially stay charged for days or a week even with the flash turned off.
I would be wary about opening it up, not because of the physical danger there, but because I figure that I would break something about it in the process.
ETA, There is likely to be something like a circuit board or flat connector link from board to board that came partly unplugged. Have you tried it on "manual" settings?
Message edited by author 2009-03-26 23:42:57.
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03/27/2009 12:05:14 AM · #6 |
| hmm good idea, but I've just boxed it & sent it off:) |
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03/27/2009 08:12:34 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:
The big capacitor in there can give you a very nasty (read; TASER) bite when it's charged up. |
Quite true except it's not in the TASER voltage range.
It's usually about 400 to 600 volts DC. But.......
MUCH MORE DANGEROUS than a TASER because it is capable of much higher current. If this cap were to jolt across your chest it could easily kill you. It all depends on where you're hit and how much goes thru the heart. In other words a crap shoot. If neither terminal of the cap is grounded and you're just sticking yer fingers in, you'll probably just get the nasty bite described above. The drier your skin the less the chance of danger. Be careful playing with the innards of flashes. |
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03/27/2009 08:26:26 AM · #8 |
| For $200, you could buy a new SB600 from B&H. I think I paid $224.00 for mine a year ago. |
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