Nikon light metering question - DPChallenge Forums

01/21/2009 09:36:22 PM · #1

I'm having trouble with my light metering system on my D300. Admittedly I've had some shocking light conditions to deal with - eg I shot a wedding the other day, at noon on a very hot bright day. The facial shadows in the open light were too strong, so I had to put the subjects under trees etc, but the difference in light levels between shade and surrounding light were extreme, so metering was very difficult. In shade at f8 the shutter speed was slow, and I had to pump the ISO up to compensate - but the D300 does seem to produce a lot of noise even at ISO 400. In that instance I chose to use spot metering on the subjects so at least they were correctly exposed, but it was REALLY inconsistent. Matrix metering would have been an option I guess, with a +.3 exposure, but as it was so extreme I was concerned. As it turned out, the spot metering seemed to be completely out for the first 2 shots, then right for the successive ones (a good thing I take several shots in a row!).
In aperture priority I also find the metering is always under, so the shots are slightly underexposed - I always have to add the +.3 when using that method in any lighting conditions.

My questions are - does anyone else have these problems with their Nikon; who is using matrix, spot or centre weighted and in what conditions; and what would you have used under these circumstances?

ralph

Nikon Z9

01/21/2009 09:44:13 PM · #2

can't speak for the D300
D3 is always bang on (though i usually -.3 for spot metering)
D200 i had was problimatic & esp. with the sigma lens they always needed -.7 on every thing ... more of a lens issue
D100 was usually pretty good

01/21/2009 09:50:42 PM · #3

Originally posted by ralph:

Hi Ralph, thanks for the response
So what system do you use most of the time, or does it depend on the conditions and subject?

chromeydome

Nikon D7000

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

01/21/2009 10:19:59 PM · #4

d80 is a bit high, by about 1/3 to 2/3 stop

d90 seems right on the money

smichener

Nikon D300

01/21/2009 10:36:01 PM · #5

my d80 always seems 1/3 to 2/3 too hot also. I messed with spot for awhile but now just stick to matrix

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G

01/22/2009 12:52:57 AM · #6

Its interesting that your D80s are hot - mine is underexposing consistently. Unless of course I throw it on spot, then as I said, it only exposes correctly after 2 or so shots.
You'd think that when you're buying state of the art technology at $1000's they'd at least give you something that works! I don't ever remember having these problems with my film Nikon.

Message edited by author 2009-01-22 00:57:45.

Anders

Nikon D300

01/22/2009 07:21:40 AM · #7

Under most circumstances my metering is spot on. I've shot in some pretty tough ones lately (night-time church concerts with no flash etc), but my biggest problem was getting a fast enough shutter speed in the first place, not the metering. So can't help there I'm afraid...

But if your camera is consistently overexposing- you could use custom function b6 to change the ''optimal exposure''?

ETA: I usually stick to matrix metering, or if the light is really difficult- manual exposure.

Message edited by author 2009-01-22 07:30:51.

ralph

Nikon Z9

01/22/2009 08:43:36 AM · #8

Originally posted by jettyimages:

So what system do you use most of the time, or does it depend on the conditions and subject?

roughly:
70% matrix
27% spot (usually on manual mode/ manual focus)
3% center weighted

Nuno

01/22/2009 08:40:52 PM · #9

I think you are mixing some different subjects around here.

firt let me ask: are you used to shoot weddings? Because at bright sunlight even under the trees @ f8 you needed to push the iso to 400??? that's a bit strange to me.

And how did you work? Did you only want to do natural light?

I have no such problems with my D300. I usually tend to use it in matrix metering with an sb800 as fill flash. Usually I use it +0.3 or +.07 Ev, +1 EV in spot metering on th eskin, but it depends on the person.

01/27/2009 03:11:49 AM · #10

Originally posted by Nuno:

Definitely its possible for the light under the shade to be very low, especially at this time of the year (we are in high summer). I shoot quite a few weddings, mostly in candid style, and when shooting more formal poses do also tend to ask the couple to interact. This means needing reasonably fast shutter speeds, so in the shade on that particular day I had to up the ISO. I am finding my D300 doesn't like low light, I'm waiting to upgrade to the D700 for that problem exactly. I don't like using fill flash as it tends to create too much of a false appearance and flattening of the faces for my taste. Having said that, i do use it when necessary, with an SB800.

Azrifel

Fujifilm X100VI

01/27/2009 04:18:37 AM · #11

When you put them in the shade under a tree on a bright day you could (or rather should) use a big reflector (a la California Sunbounce Pro). We use that one all the time. And we shoot manual exposure. Do a few test shots for your scene and leave it in manual. After some time it becomes your 2nd nature and you can guess it within a stop. Only have to adjust a little then.

Bouncing some light in with the flash and a Gary Fong dome can work too.

Lonni