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12/29/2008 08:42:18 PM · #26 |
Even though no one has said it, i would stay away from the Cannon 24-70 L. From what I hear, it's kinda a crap shoot as to whether you'll get a good copy. Otherwise, unless your body is limiting you in some way (i.e. low frame rate, need higher iso) I would recommend you invest in some solid glass. Because, glass is more important than a body (to a certain extent). I would recommend some fast primes, I go all primes and love it; though, it takes some getting use to!
Evan
Either way gluck! |
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12/29/2008 08:47:25 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by goinskiing:
Originally posted by Patrick_R:
I have a hard time justifiying the 85mm when I already have the 50mm you know? |
I had that same struggle, but decided to stick with the 50mm, it's just so versatile and felt that the 85mm would have been to tight on the 30D. I'll eventually upgrade to the F1.4 though when I'm through school, maybe as a graduation gift to myself in a couple years. |
IMHO if you have never shot with the 85 and compared the results to the 50 you really should. To me there is a world of difference between the two and the 85 would be my choice in a heartbeat. In fact I've bought and sold the 85 4 times and currently wont ever let it go. The 50F1.4 I just bought and returned at B&H because it simply isnt all its cracked up to be, and the 1.8 well its a bargain but you get what you pay for.
This is not a snobbish response this is my opinion. Its OK if yours differs from mine. You dont have to take my pictures or pay my bills. :D
Matt
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12/29/2008 08:53:22 PM · #28 |
| Ha!...what makes you happy? |
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12/29/2008 09:13:03 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by StOlafPhotographer:
Even though no one has said it, i would stay away from the Cannon 24-70 L. From what I hear, it's kinda a crap shoot as to whether you'll get a good copy. Otherwise, unless your body is limiting you in some way (i.e. low frame rate, need higher iso) I would recommend you invest in some solid glass. Because, glass is more important than a body (to a certain extent). I would recommend some fast primes... |
I can't think of a better, fast mid-range zoom than this lens. It was designed for use with full-frame cameras with the most discriminating sensors. Yes, it is possible to get a bad copy of any lens and to have to exchange it. This lens, however, does not exactly have a history in this respect. Primes are wonderful, of course, but so are Aston Martins and the Himalayas. |
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12/29/2008 09:15:54 PM · #30 |
Give it to me....
Oh I didnt just say that out loud did I?
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12/29/2008 09:45:33 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by JaimeVinas:
Give it to me....
Oh I didnt just say that out loud did I? |
Hey I asked for it first.. just not out loud:-) |
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12/29/2008 10:25:02 PM · #32 |
I would get lights.
Especially if you are shooting portraits.
Your camera and your lens will be fine.
Learning how to light things is invaluable, and the difference between using vivitars and real strobes with good modifiers for lights is night and day, no matter how much you can do with the strobist mindset. The first difference is that lights tend to work every time.
AlienBees are good enough and cheap. |
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12/30/2008 12:52:49 AM · #33 |
Originally posted by petrakka:
I would get lights.
Especially if you are shooting portraits.
Your camera and your lens will be fine.
Learning how to light things is invaluable,
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I agree with that per my post below. Lighting is the best bang for the buck.
Originally posted by petrakka:
and the difference between using vivitars and real strobes with good modifiers for lights is night and day, no matter how much you can do with the strobist mindset. The first difference is that lights tend to work every time.
AlienBees are good enough and cheap. |
Hold on a sec. Flashes work every time - it's typically the triggering system that is tricky, and studio strobes need a triggering mechanism, too. I guess the argument is that they're static, so you might as well just buy long sync cords. Each have their pros and cons - I chose mobility over power, and I typically shoot at close range at 1/16 power anyway.
Besides, the OP said he was "totally happy with his manual flashes." |
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12/30/2008 05:09:40 PM · #34 |
I am happy with my manual flashes. especially now that I have a 45 inch shoot through umbrella on them the light is great. Nice an soft. I would get some alien bees but I would have no where to put them my house as it's sooooo tiny! I guess the truth is I feel most limited by my lack of extra focal lengths. It's not that I'm not happy with the 50mm I love it but theres' only so much it's good for you know? and then I switch to the kit lense and there is an OBVIOUS IQ difference. I have access to an 85mm from a friend I can borrow if I ever REALLY wanted to use it. I just want to start investing in my first L glass.
Here's is my thinking...
I'm really considering getting the 70-200 2.8L IS and then getting the 17-40 4L or the 16-35 2.8L as soon after that as possible and that should cover my focal ranges nicely from 17-40mm, my current 50mm and then a 70-200 for the long end.
After those then off to full frame I go. I think that sounds like a plan eh?
Message edited by author 2008-12-30 17:10:35. |
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12/30/2008 05:12:54 PM · #35 |
A Bloody Big TV, DVD player and a good wildlife dvd, then I could just imagine I did it and feel cosy and warm...
Good central heating:)) |
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12/30/2008 05:21:02 PM · #36 |
| $1,500 worth of books of other people's photographs. |
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