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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Lighting help!!!
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09/27/2008 11:17:49 PM · #1
So I shot studio a week ago for the first time, 2 strobes(? lol I'm so illiterate) set as slaves with optical triggers and a backlight also with an optical trigger. Took me maybe 10 minutes to get the lighting right, no big deal. I have an on-camera flash and a 220EX (picked up at wal-mart for less than $50, yay!), I was using the onboard flash because I didn't have batteries for the 220EX and bouncing it sideways with my ID card holder, which made everything else go. Excellent.

Well I went in last night to go and shoot some stuff for the color portrait...with basically the same setup. I have no idea what went wrong, but the lights wouldn't pop. Any ideas on what I've done wrong? Or on what I could do to make it work better??

Thanks!
09/27/2008 11:21:59 PM · #2
Is there a model light button?

batteries low?

disconnection (air gap)?

lights burnt out?

breaker up?

camera battery low?

needs to be reset?

I don't know.
09/27/2008 11:23:46 PM · #3
Sorry, lol, not enough detail.

There is a model light button, what does it mean?

Camera battery was a bit low....

They'd go every once in a while, like once every 20 frames, but they'd completely blow out the models.
09/27/2008 11:29:34 PM · #4
In the industry which claims that I have a career in, but on a daily basis wish for a different industry to put a claim on me, when we have power issues, we play "the game".

The game basically is to eliminate what does work.

Start with your power source. Are the batteries low? batteries usually need to be replenished with a lot of use.

If it is AC, is the breaker up?

It that is good, move on to the cable. If you can, switch out the cable. If no difference, than move on to the next part in the lamps equipment. The head maybe.

Is the bulb ok?, are there any loose electronics? if the cable leading into the lamp ok?

Play the game, take one item at a time, switch it out, see which components work and assess what is going on.

This is all I can do to help.

Good luck.
09/27/2008 11:33:06 PM · #5
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:

In the industry which claims that I have a career in, but on a daily basis wish for a different industry to put a claim on me, when we have power issues, we play "the game".

The game basically is to eliminate what does work.

Start with your power source. Are the batteries low? batteries usually need to be replenished with a lot of use.

If it is AC, is the breaker up?

It that is good, move on to the cable. If you can, switch out the cable. If no difference, than move on to the next part in the lamps equipment. The head maybe.

Is the bulb ok?, are there any loose electronics? if the cable leading into the lamp ok?

Play the game, take one item at a time, switch it out, see which components work and assess what is going on.

This is all I can do to help.

Good luck.


I'll try to see if I can check any of those things...any ideas on where the actual optical sensor is on the light? I suspect that it may have issues, or that I might not be directing my light correctly...I may not be able to get into the breaker because the studio is owned by the university and I had to beg for access to it anyways.

Thanks very much for your input!

ETA: word failures

Message edited by author 2008-09-27 23:42:49.
09/27/2008 11:36:16 PM · #6
Originally posted by JesiLynR:



...any ideas on where the actual optical sensor is on the camera?

I suspect that it may have issues, or that I might not be directing my light correctly...

Thanks very much for your input!


see....you are playing the game already.

I would think the optical sensor, if it is like my 300d, might be on the hand grip. maybe?
09/27/2008 11:41:42 PM · #7
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:

Originally posted by JesiLynR:



...any ideas on where the actual optical sensor is on the camera?

I suspect that it may have issues, or that I might not be directing my light correctly...

Thanks very much for your input!


see....you are playing the game already.

I would think the optical sensor, if it is like my 300d, might be on the hand grip. maybe?


lol I had a word failure. I meant on the light...

ETA: Does the rebel have an optical sensor of some kind?? If so, what does it do????? (lol rabbit trails)


Message edited by author 2008-09-27 23:42:32.
09/27/2008 11:43:32 PM · #8
Originally posted by JesiLynR:

Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:

Originally posted by JesiLynR:



...any ideas on where the actual optical sensor is on the camera?

I suspect that it may have issues, or that I might not be directing my light correctly...

Thanks very much for your input!


see....you are playing the game already.

I would think the optical sensor, if it is like my 300d, might be on the hand grip. maybe?


lol I had a word failure. I meant on the light...


I can not answer that question, but maybe Googleing your lamps and finding some sort of background on them may help.
09/27/2008 11:47:10 PM · #9
??? Wouldn't the Sensors be on the Strobes? Flash goes off on the cam and the strobes see it.

My strobes have 3 sensor settings. Off (so you can hook a sync cord up), normal sensitivity, and a sensitivity to not flash with pre flash from a hotshoe flash.

Maybe someone came in and shot with sync cords and turned the optical sensors on the strobes off???

Message edited by author 2008-09-27 23:48:24.
09/27/2008 11:51:02 PM · #10
Originally posted by awpollard:

??? Wouldn't the Sensors be on the Strobes? Flash goes off on the cam and the strobes see it.

My strobes have 3 sensor settings. Off (so you can hook a sync cord up), normal sensitivity, and a sensitivity to not flash with pre flash from a hotshoe flash.

Maybe someone came in and shot with sync cords and turned the optical sensor off???


lol yeah, I meant strobes.

I should look and see if they're set to that last one...the optical sensor's on because they worked every once in a while.

I hadn't thought of looking the light up, I found it pretty easily. I'll have to keep searching to see if I can find where the sensor is. (photogenic PL1250DR)
09/27/2008 11:55:43 PM · #11
should be a little white button looking thing on the back.

Are you shooting with the 220ex tonight? Have you tried with the onboard flash just like the last time you used them. The hotshoe flash may be kicking the strobes early.
09/27/2008 11:58:43 PM · #12
Originally posted by awpollard:

should be a little white button looking thing on the back.

Are you shooting with the 220ex tonight? Have you tried with the onboard flash just like the last time you used them. The hotshoe flash may be kicking the strobes early.


Yeah, there was a clearish little button thing that said "slave" beneath it, I suspect it of being the sensor.

No, it was just with the onboard flash. I will probably try with the 220X tomorrow night or something...
09/28/2008 12:09:28 AM · #13
From the manual sounds like the photoslave is not very sensitive to light.

Triggering is accomplished by using a built-in photoslave or a trigger cable from the
power supply to the camera shutter contacts of âXâ or âzeroâ delay. Other units in the
system are then triggered by photoslave operation. It is best to connect the fill light
directly to the camera since it will be positioned furthest back in the studio and will
usually provide sufficient illumination to trigger the other units. It is suggested that all
walls and ceiling be painted either in white or light neutral colors for most reliable
photoslave operation.


Try using your cam flash right on the photoslave to see if they even trigger (I can't find an on/off for that function in the manual). If it triggers back up until it stops and you will know how sensitive they are.
09/28/2008 12:18:54 AM · #14
Originally posted by awpollard:

From the manual sounds like the photoslave is not very sensitive to light.

Triggering is accomplished by using a built-in photoslave or a trigger cable from the
power supply to the camera shutter contacts of âXâ or âzeroâ delay. Other units in the
system are then triggered by photoslave operation. It is best to connect the fill light
directly to the camera since it will be positioned furthest back in the studio and will
usually provide sufficient illumination to trigger the other units. It is suggested that all
walls and ceiling be painted either in white or light neutral colors for most reliable
photoslave operation.


Try using your cam flash right on the photoslave to see if they even trigger (I can't find an on/off for that function in the manual). If it triggers back up until it stops and you will know how sensitive they are.


Well now that I know where it is I think I should stand back a bit, I was mostly in front of the strobes. They would trigger every once in a while.
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