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07/26/2008 04:55:21 PM · #1 |
| The ND filter should reduce the f/stop by 6 it says. But when i put it on, everything was the same. The exposure didn't change or nothing. Did i do something wrong? |
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07/26/2008 04:56:35 PM · #2 |
| Are you shooting in an auto mode or manual? |
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07/26/2008 04:57:57 PM · #3 |
| Auto.. should it be Manual? |
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07/26/2008 05:02:36 PM · #4 |
Auto will just adjust to make a correct exposure. Try metering something without the filter (write down the settings) put the filter on and meter again. try to have consistent light. Settings should have changes
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07/26/2008 05:11:50 PM · #5 |
The filter is to balance the light in your scene.If you cover the whole scene with your filter then it won't do much.It wont change much if the light in your scene is the same. The ND will even your exposre in the sky and the land if there is a difference in light. So you must position the fliter along the horizon covering the sky and then go from there.
If you are shooting a watetrfall then the samed applies. postion the filter so it covers the water fall so it doesn't get overexposed while exposing for the surrounding landscape.
For a more "natural look" try using a graduated ND filter. There won't be a visible line where the filter is positioned.
For a long exposure try stacking ND filters with a Graduated ND.
Just my experience. I am sure more experienced photogs will chime in.
Don't give up on it yet.
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07/26/2008 05:50:51 PM · #6 |
| Make sure you don't have ISO set on Auto. Your camera will up the ISO to get to a shutter speed / fstop it wants. |
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07/26/2008 06:00:21 PM · #7 |
| I am guessing your ND filer is the non graduated type. These are great for dropping shutter speed to smooth out water, making a daylight scene look like a night scene, or go with a small aperture(F22/F32) use a flash on your subject and BLACKOUT the background. All best achieved shooting in Manual. You should have lots of fun playing with it. :) |
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07/26/2008 09:01:33 PM · #8 |
| The non-gradulated type ND filters are great to get that smooth water in a waterfall when the conditions are a bit brighter than very early morning or late evening - it allows you to slow that shutter speed down. As others have discussed, the graduated ND filters are fantastic for balancing out bright skies and darker foregrounds. |
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07/26/2008 09:24:47 PM · #9 |
Some examples of ND 8 filter. I bought it to be able to shoot with slow exposures during the daylight and not get blown highlights. The display on the p&s camera will automaticaly adjust the light to compensate for the filter, but pay no attention to it.
Not the best shots but the best I could get with my trusty point and shoot.
And my favourite ND shot, taken by imagineer

Message edited by author 2008-07-26 21:26:01. |
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07/27/2008 09:48:25 AM · #10 |
| Mine is a non-graduated filter i believe. Cause i wanted to take long-exposures for water shots. Would it also work for blown out skies, cause sometimes i do have a problem with making the sky a bit bright. |
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07/27/2008 09:53:51 AM · #11 |
Yes it will work for your skies. Just position your filter so it only covers the sky and you find it will make a difference in your shots. I recently used 2 ND and a Grad ND filter for a shot at 6pm in the afternoon and I was able to get upto a 90sec exposure!
Why would youwant a 90 sec exposure? just to get some cool effects.
Is your filter a screw mount onto your lens or is it a square filter that needs a holder. I am not familiar with the circular style but the othert style is prettyy handy because I can Slide into position easier.
Message edited by author 2008-07-27 09:57:34. |
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07/27/2008 10:09:37 AM · #12 |
| yeah mine is a screw in circular one, so i don't know if i can position it the way you told me to do it. |
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07/27/2008 11:06:50 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by cujee: yeah mine is a screw in circular one, so i don't know if i can position it the way you told me to do it. |
The very reason Cokin and Lee are recommended for ND filters. The solid ND screw in works fine if you want to affect the entire scene.
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07/29/2008 09:06:15 AM · #14 |
okay I tried using my ND filter in broad daylight it only reduces the shutter speed about 1 or 2 stops, but it's suppose to affect it by 6 or something. In broad daylight the shutter speed goes to 1/20 to 1/15 of a second at my highest aperture, which i think is f/38. Without the filter it's about 1/30 to 1/45
Message edited by author 2008-07-29 09:17:58. |
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07/29/2008 09:38:33 AM · #15 |
Tiffen ND filters, to name one example, are labeled by density: A "Tiffen 6" has a .6 density and it is a "2-stop" filter. Another manufacturer would label this a "4X" filter. 2X is one stop, 4X is two stops, 8X is 3 stops, etc. In Tiffen's system, a 4-stop filter is a 9 (0.9 density). So if you use Tiffen, or another manufacturer that labels with this system, your results are about right.
Also bear in mind that ND filters don't affect all levels of the light spectrum the same way; so if you are photographing in bright summer sunlight, where there's a LOT of UV radiation present, your exposure change will be less than you'd have expected.
R.
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07/29/2008 09:56:51 AM · #16 |
Ohh that's why. Yeah mine is a Tiffen Filter 6. So i guess that makes sense. But the salesman misinformed me and said that it should change by 6 stops and didn't say anything about the density.
It appears to fluctuate a lot, like just now i tried it again and it changed by 4 or 5 stops.
Message edited by author 2008-07-29 10:01:10. |
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07/29/2008 11:20:58 AM · #17 |
Mystery solved :-) Incidentally, as far as I know nobody makes a "6X" filter, which would be 2.5 stops. A 6-stop filter would be "64X", or in the Tiffen system (if they made one, which they don't) it would be an "18" (representing 1.8).
R.
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07/29/2008 01:38:27 PM · #18 |
| I also tried putting a pair of sunglasses on my camera in addition to my ND Filter to see if it strengthened it :P It actually did lower the exposure time but i think the colors were a bit off. |
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07/29/2008 01:51:03 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music: Mystery solved :-) Incidentally, as far as I know nobody makes a "6X" filter, which would be 2.5 stops. A 6-stop filter would be "64X", or in the Tiffen system (if they made one, which they don't) it would be an "18" (representing 1.8).
R. |
The 6 stop filter - B&W
The 10 stop filter
I own the 6 stop and 10 stop filters, they are interesting ND filter to own, although only moderatly useful. I use my 2x and 4x much more often. Someday I need to scan and post some of my shots with the 10 stop filter, I found a very interesting, albiet not original, use for it.
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07/29/2008 02:14:01 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by vxpra: Originally posted by Bear_Music: Mystery solved :-) Incidentally, as far as I know nobody makes a "6X" filter, which would be 2.5 stops. A 6-stop filter would be "64X", or in the Tiffen system (if they made one, which they don't) it would be an "18" (representing 1.8).
R. |
The 6 stop filter - B&W
The 10 stop filter
I own the 6 stop and 10 stop filters, they are interesting ND filter to own, although only moderatly useful. I use my 2x and 4x much more often. Someday I need to scan and post some of my shots with the 10 stop filter, I found a very interesting, albiet not original, use for it. |
Now that's what i needed, but nothing exists like that around here. |
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08/13/2008 10:47:50 AM · #21 |
Why is it when I search "neutral density filter" in bhphotovideo, there are a bunch which are at least $300 rising up to $800?!?!
What kind of super filters are these? they seem huge so are they used to telescopes or something?
Message edited by author 2008-08-13 11:11:26. |
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08/13/2008 01:45:25 PM · #22 |
I used a 10 stop ND filter for this shot:
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