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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Do I really need a ND filter?
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02/12/2008 09:21:21 AM · #1
I've been looking at filters, and I know a lot of people swear that I'll need a ND filter, what do you guys think?
02/12/2008 09:33:40 AM · #2
A (circular) polarizer should take precedence, in my opinion. But if you like to shoot waterfalls, yes, an ND filter is a benefit. I use my ND 3 often in combination with my polarizer to dim a scene in order to get an exposure long enough to make silky waterfalls. It's not an absolute "must have" but they are fairly inexpensive and take up little room in the camera bag. :)
02/12/2008 09:35:16 AM · #3
I think if you shoot landscapes in daylight then you'll find one useful to balance out the sky/ground.

Of course, you can do something similar in PS but run the increased risk of blowing out the clouds in the sky.
02/12/2008 09:41:35 AM · #4
I wasn't thinking about the graduated ND...but Tez is right, those are very handy for correcting differential exposures.

Message edited by author 2008-02-12 09:41:45.
02/12/2008 09:43:25 AM · #5
Originally posted by Tez:

I think if you shoot landscapes in daylight then you'll find one useful to balance out the sky/ground.

Of course, you can do something similar in PS but run the increased risk of blowing out the clouds in the sky.


this, of course, refers to using a graduated ND filter (dark on one side and light on the other). it lets you darken one part of the frame (usually the sky) while not darkening the other (the land).

a useful system to purchase is the cokin system. this is especially true for grad ND's. the design lets you slide the filter to line up the boundary between light and dark at the horizon. screw-in ND grads always will have the boundary in the middle of the frame.
02/12/2008 09:46:05 AM · #6
Thanks!! I'll probably get one. My boyfriend is buying me some photo supplies for valentines day, guess I'll stock up on the basics!

Now a silly question ;) I know that the filters screw on to the lens, does this mean I can screw one filter on to another?

Also, with the ND filter, when I put it onto the lens, do I need to get it zoomed first and then screw on the filter? I was just wondering since when I zoom, the lens rotates, it would rotate the filter as well right?
02/12/2008 09:51:56 AM · #7
Originally posted by ApertureAshley:

Thanks!! I'll probably get one. My boyfriend is buying me some photo supplies for valentines day, guess I'll stock up on the basics!

Now a silly question ;) I know that the filters screw on to the lens, does this mean I can screw one filter on to another?

Also, with the ND filter, when I put it onto the lens, do I need to get it zoomed first and then screw on the filter? I was just wondering since when I zoom, the lens rotates, it would rotate the filter as well right?


Well, if you're using a screw-in, graduated, neutral density filter, then yeah it's gonna get skewed as the lens barrel rotates. But it doesn't really make much difference when you put it on, as there's only one entry point to the threading on the lens barrel. You adjust the angle of the line on the filter by loosening it up a quarter-turn, whatever. If you're seriously into graduated ND filter work, you need the Cokin system, which mounts on the lens and you can rotate the filter within its holder. Plus you can use step-down rings to mount the same system on any of your lenses.

And yes, you can screw one filter onto another, but the more glass surfaces you introduce the worse your resolution becomes, and you may have vignetting issues when you stack filters as well.

R.

Message edited by author 2008-02-12 09:52:21.
02/12/2008 09:54:44 AM · #8
Originally posted by ApertureAshley:

Thanks!! I'll probably get one. My boyfriend is buying me some photo supplies for valentines day, guess I'll stock up on the basics!

Now a silly question ;) I know that the filters screw on to the lens, does this mean I can screw one filter on to another?

Also, with the ND filter, when I put it onto the lens, do I need to get it zoomed first and then screw on the filter? I was just wondering since when I zoom, the lens rotates, it would rotate the filter as well right?


not a silly question! the filters almost always have female threads on them so you can stack the filters. this is sometimes useful if you want to get 5 stops of light reduction (you can stack a 2-stop and a 3-stop filter). one consideration of stacking filters, though, is the possibility of vignetting. more of a problem at wider focal lengths (You start to see the filter rings).

if the lens rotates, the filter will rotate with it! not a problem with regular ND's as they are uniform across the filter. graduated ND's are a problem though. the boundary between dark and light will spin too. the cokin system avoids this because you can easily spin the filter holder. if you have a regular screw-on filter, you can always unscrew the filter a little to get the horizon right (just make sure you don't completely unscrew it and drop it!)

too slow! Bear beat me to it!

Message edited by author 2008-02-12 09:55:18.
02/12/2008 09:59:52 AM · #9
Filters come in two formats. One kind is the screw on kind. They are threaded so that you can stack them on your lens. But you need to be aware that stacking lenses can lead to image degradations such as lens flare.

The other kind is the type used in the Cokin system mentioned by brownsm. These are oblong plates that fit into a frame that is mounted on your lens. These, too, can be stacked.

When you're looking at ND filters you'll find that they are sold as ND +1, ND +2, ND +3, etc. The numbers refer to the amount of light that is blocked. So an ND+3 blocks three "stops" of light. You could, of course, stack a +1 and a +2 for the same effect but you increase the risk of flare. Many photographers feel that the less glass in front of the lens elements the better.

edit: I type too slow. :)

Message edited by author 2008-02-12 10:00:37.
02/12/2008 10:09:23 AM · #10
Thanks for all the info!!!! I think I am going to go with the cokin system, it seems to be the most versatile, and since I might be getting more lenses in the futere, it would be more cost efficient, I think!

People on DPC are so helpful!! ;)
02/12/2008 10:14:26 AM · #11
Yes, the Cokin system will help keep the cost down.

With the screw in filters, to keep the cost down, buy the one for your biggest lens opening and then just buy step up rings for the rest.
02/12/2008 10:25:41 AM · #12
Originally posted by cpanaioti:

Yes, the Cokin system will help keep the cost down.

With the screw in filters, to keep the cost down, buy the one for your biggest lens opening and then just buy step up rings for the rest.


Thanks!!! I'll have to keep that in mind!!
02/12/2008 10:26:54 AM · #13
Originally posted by ApertureAshley:

Thanks for all the info!!!! I think I am going to go with the cokin system, it seems to be the most versatile, and since I might be getting more lenses in the futere, it would be more cost efficient, I think!

People on DPC are so helpful!! ;)

You might want to go straight to the 'P' size rather than the 'A' size cokin system. The cost is not much more and in the long run you'll probably end up with some lens with larger diameters.

It's work taking a look at anyway...I can't remember the specifics of the mm ranges for 'A' vs 'P'. I can speak from firsthand experience however. I've had to duplicate some of my 'A' sized cokins with the larger 'P' series as I upgraded my lenses.
02/12/2008 10:36:58 AM · #14
Originally posted by glad2badad:

Originally posted by ApertureAshley:

Thanks for all the info!!!! I think I am going to go with the cokin system, it seems to be the most versatile, and since I might be getting more lenses in the futere, it would be more cost efficient, I think!

People on DPC are so helpful!! ;)

You might want to go straight to the 'P' size rather than the 'A' size cokin system. The cost is not much more and in the long run you'll probably end up with some lens with larger diameters.

It's work taking a look at anyway...I can't remember the specifics of the mm ranges for 'A' vs 'P'. I can speak from firsthand experience however. I've had to duplicate some of my 'A' sized cokins with the larger 'P' series as I upgraded my lenses.


Yeah, I had started a new thread to get people opinions on A vs. P, since there is an adaptor for it, I'll probabably go with the P, but now, after doing some reading, it sounds like Lee is of better quality and sturdier!!! This is frustrating!
02/12/2008 10:39:59 AM · #15
They all do the same job. I've survived with hoyas for a while now and i find them to be great for travelling light and spontaneous shots. And since I am frequently without a tripod or a car when i'm shooting i find them just great.

cokin, Lee, Hoya, whatever they'll all work great.

But whatever you do, do NOT get filters by a company called Bower, they defy physics by sucking and blowing all at the same time.
02/12/2008 10:46:11 AM · #16
Originally posted by Tez:



cokin, Lee, Hoya, whatever they'll all work great.

But whatever you do, do NOT get filters by a company called Bower, they defy physics by sucking and blowing all at the same time.


LOL, I'll definetly keep that in mind!!
02/12/2008 10:46:47 AM · #17
Thanks to everybody for all your help!! I never expected to get this many responses!!! I love this site!
02/12/2008 11:06:22 AM · #18
Originally posted by ApertureAshley:

... I never expected to get this many responses!!! I love this site!


I think we all simultaneously remembered that we actually like to talk about photography sometimes at DPC.
;>
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