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02/04/2008 08:14:18 PM · #1
Hi,

I should have some funds soon to buy a lighting set up. But of the two options I have, say a 2 strobe softbox/brolly home studio kit, or a couple of speedlights with a pocket wizard, I don't know what to go for?

I am only a recent convert to a DLSR and want to learn about lighting, but I don't yet know what sort of photography I'm interested in. I love the shots I have seen of sports such as mountain biking/bmx where a couple of speedlights on stands have been used, and would like my lighting set up to be this portable. But I would also like to be able to shoot portraits indoors, and cars (interior & exterior).

So without knowing what sort of photography I want to pursue which lighting set up is the more versatile? And also if I got the speedlights, what other uses for them are there other than extreme sports, I need some inspiration?

Also can anyone recommend a good set up, budget is about £300-£400.
02/04/2008 09:14:15 PM · #2
//strobist.blogspot.com
Maybe that'll provide inspiration. Personally, if you don't know WHAT you want it for, the speedlight option is probably your best bet. You can do pretty much everything with them as long as it's not a big group or something.

MY portable setup consists of 3 "Auto" flashes (2 Sunpak 383s and an older 333) with umbrellas and stands with Cactus wireless triggers from Gadget Infinity . The flashes are about $75US each. All together I have about $350 in the total "strobist" setup. It allows me a complete portable studio that I can take anywhere. Plus, since the flashes are Thyristor Auto flashes, they can do Auto exposure, although I mostly do manual.

You'll be able to do portrait work inside and out, with no problems. Open shade portraits with flash really stand out too.
02/04/2008 09:16:01 PM · #3
Oh, BTW, while I don't know specifics of it Nikon CLS wireless using SB800's and 600's is supposed to be quite simple and offers TTL capability. It's considerably more expensive than my approach though.
02/04/2008 11:13:30 PM · #4
As for the inspiration part, I've found these resources of lighting setups and resulting images recently:

//uk.fotopunto.com/articulo-explained-lighting-schemes_60
//www.modelmayhem.com/p.php?thread_id=96872

Message edited by author 2008-02-04 23:13:43.
02/05/2008 03:53:56 AM · #5
Thanks Leroy/Eugene.

I suppose the speedlight set up is the more portable, but can it do portraits? How do you diffuse the light properly? Can you fit softboxes and brollies to speedlights?

Also if I get a couple of SB-600's do I need a pocket wizard to control them or is the Nikon system (SU-800?) just as good. (I keep hearing wonderful things about pocket wizard)

Also is the SU-800 just a controller and not a flash? If so would an SB-800 and a SB-600 be a better option (SB-800 acting as the controller).

thanks again.
02/05/2008 06:09:03 AM · #6
Originally posted by rob_smith:

Thanks Leroy/Eugene.

I suppose the speedlight set up is the more portable, but can it do portraits? How do you diffuse the light properly? Can you fit softboxes and brollies to speedlights?

...


I just started using a strobist setup, and it's really got me geeked. They work good with umbrellas. I have a silver bounce, and a white shoot thru. The shoot thru will give you nice soft wrap around lighting, just about like a soft box. There are actually lots of alternatives. You can use any accessories that you could normally put on your flash if it were on cam, like mini softbox, bounce cards, omni bounce, gels, lightsphere, etc. The strobist link Leroy pointed out has tons of information and inspiration. :-)
If budget is a big concern, the strobist route can be a good way to go, especially with the versatility that it offers.
02/05/2008 06:58:25 AM · #7
By the looks of things the SU800 works on radio frequencies same as the pocket wizards or cheaper alternatives, though im not sure of the specific differences between them if any. The SU800 should be able to control any SB600/800's as standalone flashes, and forgo the need to plug receivers into their PC sync jacks. The SU800 looks nice, but I guess you have the problem that you can only really control (the more expensive?) Nikon flash units, whereas if you go the pocket wizard route you'll be able to save a lot on flash units and rather spend it on umbrella's or softbox's (you can use older, cheaper flash units and plug receivers into them) :)
02/05/2008 07:46:20 AM · #8
thanks

Does anyone know where I can look for reviews of all the gear I need?
02/05/2008 10:58:22 AM · #9
Originally posted by rob_smith:

Does anyone know where I can look for reviews of all the gear I need?

You have to ask? B&H, of course!
02/05/2008 11:05:29 AM · #10
I see you're in England, came across this the other day and it may help you :)
02/05/2008 08:34:53 PM · #11
OK, thanks for the advice.

I've decided on the strobist route for portability/actions shots. I don't want to spend a fortune on Nikon's CLS system, so where can I get information on what will work with a D40? Do brands like Sunpak and Vivitar work on the D40?

Lets say I need 2-3 strobes and and wireless trigger, will I have to set everything manually if I don't use the Nikon system?

Also does anyone use Gadget Infinty triggers, they are sooooo cheap? What's the catch...
02/05/2008 09:01:04 PM · #12
Originally posted by rob_smith:

I've decided on the strobist route for portability/actions shots. I don't want to spend a fortune on Nikon's CLS system, so where can I get information on what will work with a D40? Do brands like Sunpak and Vivitar work on the D40?

Here is the thing you need to know about that. Using anything except an SB-600, SB-800, SB-400 or R1C1 means you don't get TTL. You can't sit there snapping of shots and expect the images to come out well lit. You'll need to learn shooting M mode flash. This is a slower process and it helps to have a light meter. It'll take practice.

Don't forget: You get what you pay for. ;)
02/24/2008 06:18:51 PM · #13
OK, can someone help with this.

I've decided to get two SB-800's to use both off camera. Question is how do I control them with a D40?

1. Use the on camera flash (or my SB-400) to trigger them? If this is possible is there any way I can avoid having the on camera flash illuminate the subject?

2. Use some sort of wireless trigger such as pocket wizard or gadget infinity. If this is the best way do I still have full control of the flash units from the camera, can I change settings without going over to each unit?

3. Get an SU-800 commander, which is ridiculously expensive.

thanks in advance!
02/24/2008 07:42:55 PM · #14
Originally posted by andersbs:

By the looks of things the SU800 works on radio frequencies same as the pocket wizards or cheaper alternatives, though im not sure of the specific differences between them if any.

The SU-800 (i.e. the Nikon CLS system) actually uses infrared (which is line-of-sight, like a TV remote), not radio waves.
02/24/2008 07:45:36 PM · #15
Originally posted by rob_smith:

OK, can someone help with this.

I've decided to get two SB-800's to use both off camera. Question is how do I control them with a D40?

1. Use the on camera flash (or my SB-400) to trigger them? If this is possible is there any way I can avoid having the on camera flash illuminate the subject?

2. Use some sort of wireless trigger such as pocket wizard or gadget infinity. If this is the best way do I still have full control of the flash units from the camera, can I change settings without going over to each unit?

3. Get an SU-800 commander, which is ridiculously expensive.

thanks in advance!

If you're just getting into lighting and don't know much about manual controls, you might want to look into RadioPopper. It'll give you the full TTL controls (supposedly) of the Nikon CLS system.

ETA:

# 1 won't work with your setup, unless you have the SB-800s on SU-4 mode (in which case, you have no control over them from the camera).

# 2 will work, but you have to work completely manually. You will need to know your stuff about lighting.

# 3 would work just fine, but like you say, it might be expensive and is pretty much only line-of-sight.

Message edited by author 2008-02-24 19:49:56.
02/27/2008 09:53:00 AM · #16
So is the best (and most popular) way to just go down the manual route and learn? The strobist method is stuff like, if there's too much light, move them further away. Simple but effective.

Can you guys tell me what you use? I know nothing about portable speedlight set-ups but does everyone use stuff these days that is controllable from the camera? If I go the manual route am I causing myself unecessary hardship?
02/27/2008 10:57:46 AM · #17
Originally posted by rob_smith:

So is the best (and most popular) way to just go down the manual route and learn? The strobist method is stuff like, if there's too much light, move them further away. Simple but effective.

The better way of working Manual entails using a light meter and adjusting the settings on the speedlights to get the image you want.
02/27/2008 11:04:40 AM · #18
Originally posted by rob_smith:

So is the best (and most popular) way to just go down the manual route and learn? The strobist method is stuff like, if there's too much light, move them further away. Simple but effective.

Can you guys tell me what you use? I know nothing about portable speedlight set-ups but does everyone use stuff these days that is controllable from the camera? If I go the manual route am I causing myself unecessary hardship?

If you understand lighting, then manual is definitely the best way to go. If not, then it's fairly difficult. It's quite equivalent to shooting in manual mode on your camera, actually. If you practice it, you'll get good.

I use four SB flashes (26, 28, 600, and 800) in manual mode and Pocket Wizards. As _eug mentioned, a light meter can definitely help.
02/27/2008 12:48:17 PM · #19
Thanks guys that's good to know. I use manual mode when I want a specific effect, otherwise shutter/aperture priority.

So do the vast majority of strobists use manual flashes, triggered remotely, and just learn to use the manual setting correctly with a meter?

And is there some sort of middle ground between full CLS i-TTL, and full manual everything?
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