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02/01/2008 04:12:53 PM · #1 |
The latest Strobist article features Scott Hargis. He is accomplishing some really nice indoor architectural lighting using portable strobes. You can find an explanation of his technique here (//photographyforrealestate.net/2007/07/23/interior-lighting-with-multiple-strobes-by-scott-hargis/).
Can someone please explain to me how a greater ISO (he suggests 400) might be helpful when shooting still subjects with flash? I don’t understand. I would have never considered upping ISO for an indoor still.
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02/01/2008 05:31:15 PM · #2 |
With flash/strobe lighting ... you control the amount of strobe light you get using the aperture. And you control the amount of ambient light you get with the shutter speed. ISO is another way of changing the ambient light without having to slow down the shutter speed.
Message edited by author 2008-02-01 17:31:31.
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02/02/2008 07:02:49 AM · #3 |
Thanks David,
But how would that be helpful to him? He is taking only still shots and upping the ISO ups his noise. |
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02/02/2008 08:53:01 AM · #4 |
i'm guessing it's because he needs a pretty slow shutter to address the ambient light issue. think indoor shot w/o a flash. he dials in the aperture to get the flash fill correct, and then ups the ISO to provide a couple stops faster shutter- w/o affecting the ambient light.
Originally posted by from_linked_site:
Adjust the shutter speed to expose for the windows. Generally, for a “blown-out” window effect, 1/80th or slower will work. |
he'd be shooting at 1/20th'ish at ISO 100. if he's not using a tripod that's pretty slow to hand hold.
Message edited by author 2008-02-02 08:55:58.
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02/02/2008 10:06:07 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by Bernard_Marx:
But how would that be helpful to him? He is taking only still shots and upping the ISO ups his noise. |
Besides what has already been mentioned, he also said himself that ISO 400 "this gives you much greater latitude with the strobes". Essentially, it makes your strobes 4 times has powerful as they are at ISO 100. When you're bouncing off of a wall or using large umbrellas or soft boxes to be able to "evenly light" an entire room, you're using up a lot of power (as compare to simply pointing a strobe directly at a subject). So a higher ISO lets him get more light out of his strobes, enabling a smaller aperture / greater depth of field.
If his strobes are low power, he may be doing this out of necessity. At a wedding reception, I'll do the same thing simply to decrease my strobe's recycle times. The more power they use on each firing, the longer they will wait to recycle (and believe me, when children are involved, even 2 seconds can seem like forever).
One more thing, with a high quality camera (e.g. Canon 5D), ISO 400 is so clean that you don't worry about noise.
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02/02/2008 10:18:54 AM · #6 |
Just a note to say I appreciate all this information!
While my own interest is mostly in fill vs. ambient with models, this is still a great way to gain further understnding. Thx guys! :D |
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02/02/2008 04:32:30 PM · #7 |
here's a lot more info !
//strobist.blogspot.com
great resource and a nice tagline to boot ;}
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02/03/2008 08:57:42 AM · #8 |
Thanks for the help David and Tim.
I really didn't understand how ISO enters the equation when using flash. I hope I can manage to add that information to my working knowledge. |
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02/03/2008 10:23:44 AM · #9 |
now you can work on understanding guide numbers - so you don't need to rely on eTTL ;}
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