My ribbon winning HDRI image - DPChallenge Forums

01/30/2008 01:40:05 PM · #27

How does the quality of Photoshop CS3 HDR compare to Photomatix HDR? I've never tried CS3's.

01/30/2008 01:46:44 PM · #28

On this topic of splitting off "new" exposures from bracketed RAW exposures (to create intermediate steps), I'll have to retract my statement that it's not useful until I have experimented a little. On the surface, it makes no sense to me. BUT my experiences have been with images where the "under" has the brights placed where I want them, and the "over" has the shadows placed where I want them. I have not yet tried to work with an image where the brights were still too bright in the under and/or the shadows too dark in the over.

I would suppose it is possible that this approach will work better in such a case, because the HDR merge uses the darkest exposure to place the brightest tones and the brightest exposure to place the darkest tones, basically.

In a similar vein, one thing I HAVE noticed is that you can make an HDRI image worse by using too MANY exposures: that is to say, if your darkest exposure has the highlights TOO toned down, then the merged image will have dull, muddy highlights; and vice-versa for the shadows. So, in a sunset example, if -2 looks good for the brightest clouds, then including a -3 will hurt the sky, not improve it.

Regarding creating an "HDR" image from a single RAW exposure, it definitely works better to create multiple TIFFs from that exposure and then merge them. The only reason I ever did it from a single RAW was because this was legal in basic editing at the time, while combining the 3 "exposures" was NOT legal. Now tone mapping is gone from basic, so I don't do that anymore. That said, if what you're using Photomatix for is an "effect", rather than for HDR imaging, then working from a single, properly-exposed RAW can be effective for that.

R.

01/30/2008 01:47:09 PM · #29

Originally posted by Strikeslip:

How does the quality of Photoshop CS3 HDR compare to Photomatix HDR? I've never tried CS3's.

It is nowhere NEAR as good...

R.

01/30/2008 01:48:39 PM · #30

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by Strikeslip:
How does the quality of Photoshop CS3 HDR compare to Photomatix HDR? I've never tried CS3's.

It is nowhere NEAR as good...

R.

Well.... that's a definitive answer! :-) Thanks, Bear.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

01/30/2008 01:51:57 PM · #31

Originally posted by levyj413:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:
You have to strip the EXIF from the images before combining them, in PS HDR...

R.

How?

Open RAW image in ACR, create your "differently exposed" versions and open them in PS. Save each as a 16-bit TIFF file, naming them sequentially, such as IMG_7181_1 (2,3, etc).

On each image, select all and copy to clipboard, then go to "file>new" and open a new file and paste the clipboard into that. Save each as a new 16-bit TIFF file named IMG_7181_1X (2X, 3X, etc).

These new images have no EXIF data.

R.

LVicari

Canon EOS-50D

01/30/2008 02:04:44 PM · #32

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by LVicari:
Every time i try this process (saving different exposure from 1 raw file) I get a erroe message saying that there is not enough range to combine the photos. What am I doing wrong? I have tried five different exposures should i be trying more or is there something else I am missing?

Are you working with Photomatix, or with Photoshop's HDR process? This happens with Photoshop's version, because it is trying to place the exposures based on EXIF data, and that remains the same. You have to strip the EXIF from the images before combining them, in PS HDR...

R.

I was using CS2 Hdr. I didn't realize you had to strip the exif data. I will try that.
Thanks for the info. Have you ever thought of posting video tutorials on you tube or something. I need visuals!

I have seen tutorials from Photoshop Mama, which are very informative. Maybe you can become Photoshop Daddy!

Thx

scarbrd

Leica M10

Leica 35mm f/1.4 Summilux M Aspherical MF - Black

01/30/2008 02:48:24 PM · #33

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by Strikeslip:
How does the quality of Photoshop CS3 HDR compare to Photomatix HDR? I've never tried CS3's.

It is nowhere NEAR as good...

R.

Bear (or anyone else), where exactly is the radio button for the red fringe in PhotoMatix? Also, do you think the fringing is somewhat due to the fact that my images were hand held, not on a tripod?

Leica 35mm f/1.4 Summilux M Aspherical MF - Black

01/30/2008 02:59:04 PM · #34

Originally posted by scarbrd:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by Strikeslip:
How does the quality of Photoshop CS3 HDR compare to Photomatix HDR? I've never tried CS3's.

It is nowhere NEAR as good...

R.

Bear (or anyone else), where exactly is the radio button for the red fringe in PhotoMatix? Also, do you think the fringing is somewhat due to the fact that my images were hand held, not on a tripod?

There is a newer version of Photomatix available at hdrsoft.com. I downloaded an even newer Beta version and haven't found this button. Maybe Bear's thinking of Wukong?

I thought the fringing was due to a sharp change in contrast, ie, in my second example above I had red fringing between the hills and sky along most of the right side of the photo. Are we thinking of the same type of fringing? I don't see how the kind I'm thinking of would have anything to do with camera shake. Of course, I'm pretty ignorant.

scarbrd

Leica M10

01/30/2008 04:42:23 PM · #35

Originally posted by Strikeslip:

I think you're right about the contrast thing, but I was wondering if the slight differences in the images causes registration issues and maybe that can add to the fringing problem. Just guessing here.

01/30/2008 07:43:36 PM · #36

Originally posted by scarbrd:

Originally posted by Strikeslip:
There is a newer version of Photomatix available at hdrsoft.com. I downloaded an even newer Beta version and haven't found this button. Maybe Bear's thinking of Wukong?

I thought the fringing was due to a sharp change in contrast, ie, in my second example above I had red fringing between the hills and sky along most of the right side of the photo. Are we thinking of the same type of fringing? I don't see how the kind I'm thinking of would have anything to do with camera shake. Of course, I'm pretty ignorant.

I think you're right about the contrast thing, but I was wondering if the slight differences in the images causes registration issues and maybe that can add to the fringing problem. Just guessing here.

Could be. I had some "bridge shake" in my second example.