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01/20/2008 06:31:31 PM · #1 |
So here I am, giving my poor DSLR a break (not really, im still givin her some lovin). I decided to take two photography courses to fill some electives at my college this semester. These are a color, and a black and white course, both being analogue. I figured this would be an amazing lesson in perfecting exposure and other things, as every shot costs. I was wondering who else here has any experience shooting analogue. My biggest thing right now is trying to get flash exposure right. Good news is, I can use all my canon equipment, including the 580EX on my analogue camera. Im just not so sure how to get exposure right when im not using the ETTL function on the flash (say I want to use my flash off camera, or worse yet... throw in the alien bees). I am assuming the only option is to buy a flash meter? Can somebody recommend one that is inexpensive (if such a thing even exists). I am not to keen on dropping a load of cash on things like light meters, when Ill probably be back to digital after this semester. Any wise words to throw in? Any suggestions/advice would be much appreciated. Cheers,
Phil |
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01/20/2008 06:49:12 PM · #2 |
Well, you could more or less use your DSLR to act as a test meter for your film camera. Do some test shots with the DSLR and use those settings on the film camera. That's how I'd do it, anyway :)
Message edited by author 2008-01-20 18:49:23. |
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01/20/2008 06:56:08 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by alanfreed:
Well, you could more or less use your DSLR to act as a test meter for your film camera. Do some test shots with the DSLR and use those settings on the film camera. That's how I'd do it, anyway :) |
That's what I would do too. Use manual settings on the DSLR, and when you get the exposure right, match them on the film cam for the shot. It's similar to the way we used to use polaroid backs when setting up shots way back in B.C. (before chips.)
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01/20/2008 07:21:12 PM · #4 |
You obviously want an EOS Canon body so you can use your lenses & stuff (apart from EFS). I used a EOS630 for years (and years and still do sometimes) and it's a great body... similar in functionality to the 20D (metal sub-frame e.t.c.) but the auto focus will drive you nuts after modern auto focus (has trouble with vertical and only centre focus point).... They run $50 or so on flee-bay. Watch for sludge on the rear curtain as that is a known issue.... get a picture of the curtain from the seller.
A better option would be an EOS3 for a couple of hundred, it's an amazing body including the AF system. Close to the 1-series in a lot of ways.
There is always a film rebal,,,, I assume they would be priced in between the 2 I mentioned. |
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01/20/2008 07:22:46 PM · #5 |
| When shooting with manual flash the best way to get correct exposure is with a flash meter. There are several different brands check with the big suppliers (B&h Photo, KEH Camera....) for new or check on line auction sites for used. They are simple to use and can be bought used online for a couple hundred dollars. You could sell the meter afterwards if the cost is a bit high. |
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01/20/2008 07:47:13 PM · #6 |
| My experience is that it is best to get a light meter since you will want to take the light reading directly where the subject is, and not at a distance. |
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01/20/2008 07:50:28 PM · #7 |
two words: Light Meter :-D
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01/20/2008 07:56:10 PM · #8 |
Thanks for the advice. For now, I think i will continue to use the Dslr as a tester, and hope it is similar to the exposure id be getting on film (noting that the ISO settings are the same).
On another note, who woulda thought they would stop making tungsten balanced color film?? One more reason why i love raw |
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01/22/2008 06:00:04 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by tapeworm_jimmy:
Thanks for the advice. For now, I think i will continue to use the Dslr as a tester, and hope it is similar to the exposure id be getting on film (noting that the ISO settings are the same).
On another note, who woulda thought they would stop making tungsten balanced color film?? One more reason why i love raw |
You might be able to pick up a second-hand light meter on eBay for not too much money.
As for the lack of tungsten film, I've never shot on it, I've always found it easier to use a CC filter. If you have multiple lens diameters then have a look at Cokin, which can become more cost-effective if you want to get a few different filters. |
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01/22/2008 08:26:07 AM · #10 |
Never had a flash meter; just used guide numbers, tape (or lens markings which are a thing of the past) and a calculator. CC filters are better cause you can switch film in mid roll :) I did, and still have, an incidence light meter which is worth it's weight in gold. Have fun with film!
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01/22/2008 09:58:05 AM · #11 |
Another "vote" for using the guide numbers. As far as the distance markings on the lens, go full retro and use a prime lens (don't know about Canon, but all Nikon primes still have distance markings.
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01/22/2008 10:34:24 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by tapeworm_jimmy:
Thanks for the advice. For now, I think i will continue to use the Dslr as a tester, and hope it is similar to the exposure id be getting on film (noting that the ISO settings are the same).
On another note, who woulda thought they would stop making tungsten balanced color film?? One more reason why i love raw |
They should be close if you're using negative film. Color or B&W. Slide film may give you problems.
In any event, you won't be able to figure lighting ratios or easily separate ambient from flash etc.
My suggestion is to buy a good meter (used, if possible) for the time you need it and then sell it once the class is finished. Think of it as a long-term rental.
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01/22/2008 10:41:04 AM · #13 |
35mm isnt even necesarily analog. They built analog CCD cameras ya know... although they were pretty much for motion picture not still work.
I use a 1976-1997 Asahi Pentax K1000 and I scan my negatives on a CanoScan 8600F, i prefer the 8600 over the 8800 because the 8800 uses led lights that tend to accentuate scratches over the cold cathode light next best thing to flourescent.
The K1000 like many more modern cameras have a built in light meter, works okay. I actually guess when im using my 73 Yashica and i havent guessed wrong yet lmao. Came close once but i was able to save the exposure.
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