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01/06/2008 12:32:31 PM · #1 |
So after hanging around here for a year I finally got around to downloading and buying Photomatix this weekend and started playing around with it. Due to the weather, I didn't get a chance to go out and shoot RAW images to really use the program, so I tried to apply it to a few JPEG files (I don't typically shoot RAW, but I have a feeling that may change in the coming year). I'd like to hear your comments ... good or bad ... and, better yet, any tips you have for using photomatix in general, or on JPEGs in particular (as I have a lot of shots from the past year that might benefit from a run through the program).
 
 
My process was as follows: I opened the JPEG in Photoshop Elements, then used the Levels adjustment layer to bring out the shadow detail, then saved that as a separate JPG file. I did the same for the highlights. Then I opened Photomatix and generated an HDR using the original JPEG and the two modified JPEGS. I then tonemapped the images to my liking playing with the various sliders, saved it as another JPEG. Then opened in Noiseware (I don't have the plug in version), applied some noise reduction, saved it again, opened in PSE, resized and applied some USM, then S4W. I know the multiple JPG saves are a problem, but couldn't find a workaround for that using 3 different programs to achieve the edits.
Since my goal was simply to see what Photomatix could do, I didn't make many other edits to the pictures. (Excuse the dust spots on the beach pic!) The originals have no edits other than resize and S4W.
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01/06/2008 12:51:34 PM · #2 |
| Even if you shoot JPEG, to really see what Photomatix can do, bracket exposure on a scene and use the physically different exposures as input to Photomatix. |
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01/06/2008 12:52:17 PM · #3 |
| wow.. I didn't know you could use the same image and just tweak it to get a darker version and a highlighted version.. I thought you had to take 3 or more shots and actually expose each one differently... That's pretty awesome results as far as I can see.. hmmm, maybe I do need this.. lol... heck, I need everything I see.. Great job and I can't wait to see what you come up with once you get to know the program.. |
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01/06/2008 01:06:38 PM · #4 |
These are very nice, especially for working from JPG. You can do a lot better if you shoot RAW and then make your overs-and-unders from that, and better yet if you shoot several distinct RAW exposures.
And yes, Kandy, you can do it from single exposures; until the revised advanced rules came out, that was the ONLY way you could legally do it in DPC unless the challenge was "expert". You can also tone map directly on a single exposure, either RAW or JPG, for a different effect.
R.
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01/06/2008 01:10:53 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
Even if you shoot JPEG, to really see what Photomatix can do, bracket exposure on a scene and use the physically different exposures as input to Photomatix. |
In the future when shooting with photomatix in mind I will do that -- and use a tripod. Although I typically bracket when I shoot, I don't use a tripod that often. I tried using some bracketed shots from the past, but couldn't get them to line up very well, and ended up with a lot of ghosting. |
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01/06/2008 03:27:47 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by EstimatedEyes:
...ended up with a lot of ghosting. |
Ghosting is always a problem with doing HDR using multiple source shots. It can be a difficult thing to work around. |
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01/06/2008 03:34:15 PM · #7 |
I prefer to have more control over the tone mapping. Photomatix is good, but the plug in doesn't let you have full control over different areas.
Here is my quick take on your original.
Basically, I masked 3 areas, Highlights, Midtones, Shadows in RGB space. Other times, I'll work in Lab using the Lightness
I adjusted the curves in each of the areas. Then, blurred the masks. Adjusted the curves of the masks to suit. Painted over the masks in areas that I didn't like.
Then, I applied global curves, Saturation to the Greens, finally adjusted the curves once again to bring down the mid-photo haze.
Took me 15 minutes...I was working very quickly as my daughter was screaming "daddy daddy".
Anyway, enjoy, please let me know what you think. I can send you the .psd if you want.
Paul
[thumb]629689[/thumb] |
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01/06/2008 03:41:13 PM · #8 |
If you have CS3 you can shoot burst mode with brk on and take 3 RAW shots, you shouldn't need a tripod for that, then if you merge to HDR in PSCS3 it does a great job of setting the images up and then just tonemap it from the photomatix plug-in. I find the plug-in infinatly better that the stand alone version.
try not to have you brk set to wide I usually got with a +1.7 / 0 / -1.7 even go to +2 0 -2 if you must but make sure you slightly under expose if the day/sky is grey, bright and boring.
good luck in the LOD I'm in and waiting.
edit-typos
Message edited by author 2008-01-06 15:49:13. |
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01/06/2008 03:57:07 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by MAK:
If you have CS3 you can shoot burst mode with brk on and take 3 RAW shots, you shouldn't need a tripod for that, then if you merge to HDR in PSCS3 it does a great job of setting the images up and then just tonemap it from the photomatix plug-in. I find the plug-in infinatly better that the stand alone version.
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I find CS3 incredibly slow in combining images compared to the Photomatix standalone. Does anybody else have this problem? But I like the plugin better than the standalone so I tend to combine images in Photomatix, save the hdr file, then tonemap in CS3. |
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01/06/2008 04:19:44 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by PGerst:
I prefer to have more control over the tone mapping. Photomatix is good, but the plug in doesn't let you have full control over different areas.
Here is my quick take on your original.
Basically, I masked 3 areas, Highlights, Midtones, Shadows in RGB space. Other times, I'll work in Lab using the Lightness
I adjusted the curves in each of the areas. Then, blurred the masks. Adjusted the curves of the masks to suit. Painted over the masks in areas that I didn't like.
Then, I applied global curves, Saturation to the Greens, finally adjusted the curves once again to bring down the mid-photo haze.
Took me 15 minutes...I was working very quickly as my daughter was screaming "daddy daddy".
Anyway, enjoy, please let me know what you think. I can send you the .psd if you want.
Paul
[thumb]629689[/thumb] |
That's a very nice edit! You were able to pull out much more detail than photomatix using the curves and masks, especially up on the slopes of the volcano. I'd like to try that technique, but I don't have lightroom or CS3, just PS Elements to work with, and PSE doesn't have layer mask capability. Maybe I'll fire up the GIMP and see what I can do. Thanks for the help, and the edit |
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01/06/2008 05:08:15 PM · #11 |
Thats why I like the manual method better. Of course, this was for a single image. When combining multiples for TRUE HDR type work, working in 32 bit is the best. The manual approach I took CAN be done, but by that point, Photomatix is probably much EASIER.
Originally posted by EstimatedEyes:
That's a very nice edit! You were able to pull out much more detail than photomatix using the curves and masks, especially up on the slopes of the volcano. I'd like to try that technique, but I don't have lightroom or CS3, just PS Elements to work with, and PSE doesn't have layer mask capability. Maybe I'll fire up the GIMP and see what I can do. Thanks for the help, and the edit |
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