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01/01/2008 03:08:07 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by jerowe:
Originally posted by latentflip:
[quote=jerowe]
-Flash the subject with the required power for f/4 at ISO 800 (either manually or automatically depending how you like it).
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how does one determine the power needed? this is where i am completely clueless :( |
flash meter.
The sekonic L358 (best choice out there, look for a used one, $200-250).
You can read ambient. you can read flash. you can adjust the ISO/Fstop/Shutter and the meter will give you the other settings. Read flash and it will tell you what percentage of the exposure is flash and what is ambient - and a little bar will show you the proper exposure for each (all ambient, all flash). without a meter you can read the ambient (teh camera will do it) but you can't read teh flash output without a flash meter.
the advantage to teh sekonic is you can get a plug in module that will trip a pocketwizard, so you put a PW on your flash 10 feet in the air and you're standing 20 feet away on teh altar and can trigger the flash to measure it. Time saving and error reducing, as well as makes you look cool to everyone watching you set up at the wedding.
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01/01/2008 03:17:56 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Originally posted by routerguy666:
Formals are the staged shots? Why not pick up a couple more flashes and get together a small strobist setup to use? |
That would be my answer... I take two 160 w/s monolights with me for formals. Two 60 and two 45 inch umbrellas. It's just a matter of throwing a slightly heavy bag in the car. |
just beware of how you set them up. with a group of people it's REALLLY easy to get crossed shadows on teh BG people or on candles, etc.
and watch bouncing light up off the ceiling without a fill on the people - their eye sockets will be in shadow (raccoon eyes)
The advantage to a softbox is the light is easily directional and softer - an umbrella for reflection makes more specular light/highlights (a harder light) and a shoot thru will bounce a lot of light around the church - and waste it since most are too big to reflect the light off the walls.
As I said, I've made a master thesis on this subject this past summer! Name a problem, and I've created it, and then fixed it.
I said my setup works 90% of the time. Most churches have spot lights on the altar - these can do allkids of weird things, mainly making shadows, but sometimes hot spots as well. Shadows under the chin of one or two people are my main complaint, but sometimes there isn't much you can do.
here are raccoon eyes
and crossed shadows (front step edge, shadows from both little girls)Lots of gradient work here as well, to even out the light fall off on the group edges and folks in the back
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01/01/2008 05:56:11 PM · #28 |
do you use a plug-in Prof_fate, or a battery pack for you strobes.
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01/01/2008 06:19:23 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by leaf:
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Originally posted by routerguy666:
Formals are the staged shots? Why not pick up a couple more flashes and get together a small strobist setup to use? |
That would be my answer... I take two 160 w/s monolights with me for formals. Two 60 and two 45 inch umbrellas. It's just a matter of throwing a slightly heavy bag in the car. |
do you hope you can plug the lights in somewhere or do you have a battery pack for the lights. |
I carry 3 Sunpak flashes and wireless triggers too.
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01/01/2008 06:26:33 PM · #30 |
I use center point AF most of the time... I've gotten fast at re-composing. I do use the rear button to AF lock, since I'm in manual exposure most of the time anyway.
jerowe, I'm assuming the camera refocuses after you recomposed. If oneshot AF, it won't do that, but if it's in Auto, it may switch over to AI Servo if you move the camera too much.
The reason cameras have different setting is that some setting work best for some situations. Don't get stuck in one MODE, find the one that works best for which situations.
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01/01/2008 06:27:13 PM · #31 |
for the paterson unit they are studio type monolights that need 110v AC. So in my bag I take to weddings are 2 50' corder, 2 to 3 prong adapters, 3 way adapters - enough to hook up anything, i hope.
I also got an alien bee vagabond unit for those occassions when it works better. An vagabond unit is $300 or so and may sound expensive, but a battery pack for a 580EX can run $250 or more!
And it's really awesome to be able to take studio strobes anywhere!
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01/01/2008 06:29:05 PM · #32 |
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
I use center point AF most of the time... I've gotten fast at re-composing. I do use the rear button to AF lock, since I'm in manual exposure most of the time anyway.
jerowe, I'm assuming the camera refocuses after you recomposed. If oneshot AF, it won't do that, but if it's in Auto, it may switch over to AI Servo if you move the camera too much.
The reason cameras have different setting is that some setting work best for some situations. Don't get stuck in one MODE, find the one that works best for which situations. |
Agreed.
However, focus and recompose can be an issue... this explains it better than I can //visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm
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01/01/2008 06:42:57 PM · #33 |
How many pops you get out of the Vagabond, Chris? Does it have pretty decent life?
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01/02/2008 05:50:22 PM · #34 |
thanks so much everyone, i'm soaking all this in, and will hopefully not have the same problem at the next wedding. i am looking into a strobist setup for now, and would really like to upgrade to a 40d in the near future. that's my next upgrade. the 20D is getting on up there in actuations, so about that time anyway. just wish i didn't have these dang student loans :) i'd be in business then.
thanks again, so much |
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