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11/03/2007 11:22:01 PM · #1 |
i have the canon xti w/ the 18-55 f5.6 kit and soon to aquire the 70-200 f/2.8L should i also invest in the 50mm f/1.4 or the 50mm IIf/1.8
i plan to do photography at ski resorts in most likely bad lighting as well as wrestling pictures and pictures for challenges on here... any good lens suggestions? i bew my budget on that 70-200 so im looking for quality and prie here |
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11/03/2007 11:53:58 PM · #2 |
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11/04/2007 12:06:10 AM · #3 |
You will love the 70-200 f/2.8. It should be great for bad lighting (especially if you got the IS version). As far as the 50mm prime lenses, I have the 50 1.8 and it is amazing for the price. I have heard even better things about the 50 1.4.
I also have the 24-70 f/2.8 and am very pleased with it.
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11/04/2007 12:31:47 AM · #4 |
A polarizer would also be a good investment if you don't already use one.
You may also be able to get a lot of good shots with a fisheye of some kind. Even an "el Cheapo" will turn out pretty nice pics.
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11/04/2007 12:38:01 AM · #5 |
i actually purchased a polarizr and a clear protector filter for my 70-200 as well as a clear protector for my 18-55.. all promaster...for some reason thats the only brand my local camera store has is it top of the line? or is there better stuff... i mean the ilters werent cheap so i asume they must be pro grade and heck "pro"master it has pro and maser it must be good lol |
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11/04/2007 01:00:02 AM · #6 |
I don't know first hand about the Promaster brand filters, but I do know that I had to get a Hoya thin line polarizer to not have vignetting in the corners with the 18mm end of my favorite zoom. The lens was seeing the edge of the polarizer threaded ring. It may not happen with the Canon lens, but shoot a few and look for that.
There was a noticable difference in sharpness (better) with the Hoya as well.
There may be some tips in the camera manual about shooting in snow and light backgrounds like beaches too. There may be some camera setting suggestions there that will make a huge improvment, like using wide dynamic range, spot metering, or setting exposure up a notch when shooting people on bright snow.
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11/04/2007 01:23:40 AM · #7 |
i usually use manual... and also..the best time to soot photos at the mountian is at night when only locals are there less crowds/risk of some idiot running into you |
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11/04/2007 01:37:25 AM · #8 |
A good quality monopod would be a good thing to have too, as it is easy to get around with, and will help a lot with evening shooting. I use a Giattos that has 3 small rods that can be inserted in either the foot or the top of the 'pod. By putting one rod in at the top, I can use the 'pod for support, and put the rod against my neck or shoulder and get very stable for slow shutter shooting.
You will be needing a tripod for true ambient light night shooting.
Some gloves with a way to open the finger tips and a small flashlight or head light would be useful too. Batteries will not work as long in the cold either, so a spare may be good if you plan on being out very long at night in the cold.
Good luck out there.
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11/04/2007 01:41:18 AM · #9 |
well i have most of the above..im picking up a monopod soon and i have batterys...i keep an handwarmer ina sock and stick the battery in the same pocket and switch every rin down the mountain... and i hav no battey trouble... also glove arent that important my gloves have a leash on them, so i just take it off all the wayand leave it off no biggie...hopefully no tripod...they have lighting there not totally ambient...it just needs to be photoshoppd so its not that yellow shade |
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11/04/2007 01:45:36 AM · #10 |
Experiment with different white balance settings in the camera and you may be able to save a lot of processing time if one works well with the yellow lighting. Also look in the manual to see if you can set a custom white balance. If you do use custom or a manual white balance, don't forget to switch back when you are done shooting in the odd light.
You will be able to use the monopod for getting angles where you cannot get while holding the camera if you use self timer, or a remote, and hold the camera high, low or out over the edge on the monopod.
Message edited by author 2007-11-04 01:47:54.
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11/04/2007 01:47:32 AM · #11 |
thats an all too familliar situation...come off of a shot with custom WB next day find the perfet shot take it and its horrible looking |
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11/04/2007 01:49:39 AM · #12 |
Night, gotta go, someone else will have to take over now. Someone here has to have a lot more experience with shooting in snow than I have.
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11/04/2007 11:33:39 AM · #13 |
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11/04/2007 11:56:32 AM · #14 |
The 50mm f/1.4 is an awesome lens, I often use it for portraits. The f/1.8 is supposed to be great as well, it's a lot cheaper than the f/1.4, but less sturdy.
The question is whether you're willing to pay ~$200 more for the benefits of the f/1.4. Well, if you're buying the 70-200 f/2.8 IS, then these prices are peanuts anyways... ;-)
Message edited by author 2007-11-04 11:57:01. |
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11/04/2007 12:29:50 PM · #15 |
I got the 50mm 1.8 with my XT, and though it can be a very sharp lens indeed I'm not altogether convinced by the focusing on my copy and the manual focus ring is a bit of a joke. As people have already said, the build quality is very flimsy as well. I'm now looking to replace it with a 1.4 and wished I'd gone for that in the first place! |
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